Early Zetecs came fitted with external E-DIS. I have recently fitted a 2.0 to my orion, and wanted to make use of a decent 2.0 Mondeo ECU. All Manual Mondeo's are fitted with internal E-DIS.

For this setup I used a DESK ECU, I also tried a DEWY, while I was at it. They both worked fine. It's worth noting that you will need to change the MAF to a 2.0 one also. The 1.8 one is calibrated wrong.



I will start with a bit of an ECU pinout chart, as I usually do!! There are a few pins I have not included, for instance Air-Con etc.

Mondeo DESK
1 Battery
2
3 Speed Sensor
4 Tacho
5
6
7 ECT Sensor
8 Fuel Pump Relay
9 MAF
10
11 Emission Canister Purge
12
13 Engine Coolant Fan Relay 1
14 Pulsed Secondary Air Injection
15 Engine Coolant fan Relay 2
16 Ignition Current return
17 Data Link
18 Engine Diagnostic Connector
19 Engine Diagnostic Connector
20 Current Return
21 Idle Control Valve
22 Fuel Pump Relay
23
24 Camshaft Position
25 IAT Sensor
26 TPS
27 EGR
28 PAS
29
30
31 Engine Coolant Fan Relay 3
32
33 EGR
34 Digital Multifunction Display
35 Injector 4
36
37 Engine Control Relay
38
39 Injector 3
40 Current Return
41
42 Octane Coding Plug
43
44 HEGO
45
46 Sensor Common
47 TPS
48 Data Link
49
50 MAF
51 Injector 1
52 Injector 2
53
54
55 Crank Position Sensor
56 Crank Position Sensor
57 Engine Control Relay
58 Ignition Coil 1&4
59 Ignition Coil 2&3
60 Current return

Escort
1 Battery
2
3 Speed Sensor
4 Ignition Control Module
5
6
7 ECT Sensor
8 Fuel Pump Relay
9 MAF
10
11 Emission Canister Purge (37)
12
13
14 Pulsed Secondary Air Injection (37)
15
16 Ignition Control Current Return
17 Data Link
18 Engine Diagnostic Connector
19 Engine Diagnostic Connector
20 Current Return
21 Idle Control Valve
22 Fuel Pump Relay
23
24 Camshaft Position
25 IAT Sensor
26 TPS
27
28 PAS
29
30
31
32
33
34
35 Injector 4
36 Ignition Control Module
37 Engine Control Relay
38
39 Injector 3
40 Current return
41
42 Octane Coding Plug
43
44 HEGO
45
46 Sensor Common
47 TPS
48 Data Link
49
50 MAF
51
52
53
54
55
56 Ignition Control Module
57 Engine Control Relay
58 Injector 1
59 Injector 2
60 Current Return

It's obvious from even briefly looking at the pinouts, the main problems! Injectors 1&2 are in completely different places. Also the CPS is connected directly to the ECU, rather than the E-DIS unit.

Firstly, disconnect your battery, and remove the ecu. Then try and remove the wrapping tape on the part of the loom that enters the engine bay, to the E-DIS unit.



You will need to run a new wire to the ECU from the CPS. I used a piece of 0.25mm 2-Pair screened cable. This basically needs to be run from the CPS right up to the ECU plug, and connected to - Pins 55 & 56. I had some pins from another old loom, with about 50mm of cable still left on them, as I don't have any ECU plug pins, I soldered the wires to these and inserted thepins. One of the pins is already taken up. Remove this pin and leave it out for a minute.



Once this is connected you can swap some wires over for your injectors.

The coil pack centre wire is an ignition live, and the ECU pulses each coil. I used the old wires that were connected to the injectors, cut and connected them to the DIS pack. These connect to pins 58 & 59,(to which they are already connected) they are fire cylinders 1 & 4, and 3 & 2 respectively.

The next cable and pin changes to be done are for the injectors. You will have cut the cables to use them for the coil pack. I used the two of the cables from the E-DIS unit (to which there are four), and connected them to the injectors. These then need moving from their current positions on the ECU plug, to pins 51 & 51, injectors 1 & 2 respectively.

One of the last connections to be made is for the Tacho. You will have had a green wire running from the E-DIS module. It will be the only green wire there, this needs connecting to the blue and yellow wire which comes from the E-DIS unit and goes to pin 4 on the ECU plug. Bell it out to ensure the colours are the same though!

Pin 16 on the ECU needs to be connected to current return ( the chassis ). I used a short piece of wire connected to the ecu, and connected it near the ECU. This is for the internal DIS.

You will end up with one spare cable going to the ecu, to which I put come heat shrink on both ends and taped back out of the way. You will also have an ignition live feed that went to the E-DIS unit. This also needs to be heat shrunk and taped back out of the way.

Once you have finished, wrap it ull up nicely with loom tape, and your done!



I have been running a 2.0 on 105 1.8 management for a little while now (mainly because I'm lazy!) but I only noticed a slight increase in power. It did however make the engine run much smoother.

Hope this helps someone,