central heating problem
help its doing my head in.
i have 7 rads, and a vaillaint 828e turbomax boiler.
I have heat to 3 rads upstairs
NO heat to the downstairs 4
I have hot water, but no water going to the shower.
me and me mate bled 3 rads downstairs, by using the valve at the bottom of the rad, re filled system. The one rad got hot, so i went to do the one in the lounge.
By the time i did that, the other rad i bled went cold.
Now at the beginning of the year, we had an extension done to to the house and had a rad added. I am wondering whether the builder bled the whole system and if he had not could this be the cause of my problem, as it was ok beforehand?
On the new rad installed there is no bleed pipe underneath it. Is this right? Should i bleed the whole system, and if so how??
Thanks to anyone who can help me
i have 7 rads, and a vaillaint 828e turbomax boiler.
I have heat to 3 rads upstairs
NO heat to the downstairs 4
I have hot water, but no water going to the shower.
me and me mate bled 3 rads downstairs, by using the valve at the bottom of the rad, re filled system. The one rad got hot, so i went to do the one in the lounge.
By the time i did that, the other rad i bled went cold.
Now at the beginning of the year, we had an extension done to to the house and had a rad added. I am wondering whether the builder bled the whole system and if he had not could this be the cause of my problem, as it was ok beforehand?On the new rad installed there is no bleed pipe underneath it. Is this right? Should i bleed the whole system, and if so how??
Thanks to anyone who can help me
hi, im guessing your boiler is upstairs? needs balanced=if so you should shut down your 3 rads upstairs using the valves at the rads, and open the downstairs 4, you should get heat to the ones downstairs,
leave the valves on the downstairs ones about 1 turn open and then do this to the upstairs ones(open 1 turn each) and this should solve your problem, if that doesnt work and all air is out your system - replace your pump becausde its only using gravity to heat the top radiators
STU
leave the valves on the downstairs ones about 1 turn open and then do this to the upstairs ones(open 1 turn each) and this should solve your problem, if that doesnt work and all air is out your system - replace your pump becausde its only using gravity to heat the top radiators
STU
the boiler is 3.5 years old
i bled it from bottom , and at same time, a little bit from the top. Now the bizarre thing is, all upstairts are still off.
kitchen is cold
lounge is cold
onein extension cold
one in hallway luke warm
i bled it from bottom , and at same time, a little bit from the top. Now the bizarre thing is, all upstairts are still off.
kitchen is cold
lounge is cold
onein extension cold
one in hallway luke warm
fill the system up to 1.5 bar and bleed all radiators from the top valve
how long does the boiler run for before it switches off?
do you thermostatic radiator valves? if so check that the pins inside are not stuck down after being off for a while
could also be a diverter valve or pump fault if none of the above.
really need to be in front of it so i can see what its doing first hand
how long does the boiler run for before it switches off?
do you thermostatic radiator valves? if so check that the pins inside are not stuck down after being off for a while
could also be a diverter valve or pump fault if none of the above.
really need to be in front of it so i can see what its doing first hand
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Advanced PassionFord User
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 1,761
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From: In my GTR Skyline as often as poss ; )
Is the pump actually spinning? sounds like it is if rads are warming downstairs at all.
There are thermal sensors on hot water pipe and c/h pipe I think, also an overheat sensor. Could be the c/h one .. If you can find a manual, check for that.
other thing could be a faulty modulator valve .. thats a bit more pricey ...
But I think you need the manual for this one .. to follow the fault finding sequence.
There are thermal sensors on hot water pipe and c/h pipe I think, also an overheat sensor. Could be the c/h one .. If you can find a manual, check for that.
other thing could be a faulty modulator valve .. thats a bit more pricey ...
But I think you need the manual for this one .. to follow the fault finding sequence.
Originally Posted by the sludge
the boiler runs for like 2 or 3 minutes then goes off. there are no thermo valves except for the one in the extension that was added.
is it noisy just before it shuts down?
sounds like it has circulation problems, thats why it shuts down early because the heat is staying in the boiler.
Originally Posted by Al Bags
Is the pump actually spinning? sounds like it is if rads are warming downstairs at all.
There are thermal sensors on hot water pipe and c/h pipe I think, also an overheat sensor. Could be the c/h one .. If you can find a manual, check for that.
other thing could be a faulty modulator valve .. thats a bit more pricey ...
But I think you need the manual for this one .. to follow the fault finding sequence.
There are thermal sensors on hot water pipe and c/h pipe I think, also an overheat sensor. Could be the c/h one .. If you can find a manual, check for that.
other thing could be a faulty modulator valve .. thats a bit more pricey ...
But I think you need the manual for this one .. to follow the fault finding sequence.
it may be spinning but you could still stop it with a screwdriver
it does sound noisy
by my own sort of technical thoughts, i did this today, shut down all upstairs rads
shut down all rads downstairs apart from one in in extension
it came on red hot
turned on one in hall , red hot
turned on one in kitchen, red hot
turned lounge one on, stone cold
at same time one4 in extension went cold
so turned em all off except for lounge
that went red hot,
then hall theat went hot
tnen i gave up
by my own sort of technical thoughts, i did this today, shut down all upstairs rads
shut down all rads downstairs apart from one in in extension
it came on red hot
turned on one in hall , red hot
turned on one in kitchen, red hot
turned lounge one on, stone cold
at same time one4 in extension went cold
so turned em all off except for lounge
that went red hot,
then hall theat went hot
tnen i gave up
Advanced PassionFord User
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 1,761
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From: In my GTR Skyline as often as poss ; )
I dont agree ... A Valiant pump will be perfectly adequate. It may be a Grundfoss.
I reckon he has a big airlock in the pipework somewhere. Maybe in the pipework under floor upstairs or one that connects up the cold rad.
Try shutting all the rads that heat up OK, charge system pressure up to 2 bar ... Open the rad bleed valve .. after ensuring the lockshield and control are both open.
Try to give a thorough bleed. I like to see hot water coming thru at this point. Keep the pressure topped up while you do this.
Try this on the other rad that doesnt get hot, see what you can achieve mate.
There are other more drastic measures to get air out including back-filling .. dont wanna do that yet tho.
I reckon he has a big airlock in the pipework somewhere. Maybe in the pipework under floor upstairs or one that connects up the cold rad.
Try shutting all the rads that heat up OK, charge system pressure up to 2 bar ... Open the rad bleed valve .. after ensuring the lockshield and control are both open.
Try to give a thorough bleed. I like to see hot water coming thru at this point. Keep the pressure topped up while you do this.
Try this on the other rad that doesnt get hot, see what you can achieve mate.
There are other more drastic measures to get air out including back-filling .. dont wanna do that yet tho.
ok i did all of that Al
i got all downstairs ones hot including extension one
i opened up bath rad and then opened valve. I got a shhhhhh nopise splutter splutter then hot water,
opened 2 bedrooms one they got hot, bled them no noise
then one in hallyway got cold and one in lounge got cooler.
The 2 bedrooms ones i reduced valves to halfway and they was still piping hot.
i got all downstairs ones hot including extension one
i opened up bath rad and then opened valve. I got a shhhhhh nopise splutter splutter then hot water,
opened 2 bedrooms one they got hot, bled them no noise
then one in hallyway got cold and one in lounge got cooler.
The 2 bedrooms ones i reduced valves to halfway and they was still piping hot.
the pump might be a good place to start? with only 7 rads they should all heat no probs....
how old is the system and rads and what colour is the sytem water?
remember that if your not corgi registered you shouldnt even be removing the boiler casing lol
how old is the system and rads and what colour is the sytem water?
remember that if your not corgi registered you shouldnt even be removing the boiler casing lol
the whole syatem is 3.5 years old
the system water is a frothy whitish colour.
i havnt removed any casings lol, as underneath is the access to refill the sytem. thats alli have doen on it to get it back to 1.8 bar
the system water is a frothy whitish colour.
i havnt removed any casings lol, as underneath is the access to refill the sytem. thats alli have doen on it to get it back to 1.8 bar
Originally Posted by rapidcossie
should be quite an easy prob to solve.
would come and help if i didbt live so far away!
(tech eng for scottish gas)
would come and help if i didbt live so far away!
(tech eng for scottish gas)
british gas not good enuf for ya
british is better anyway
Originally Posted by rapidcossie
sounds ok so far.
can remove the flow pipe to the rads that are not heating to try and establish if there actaully is any flow to them or if the water is static?
can remove the flow pipe to the rads that are not heating to try and establish if there actaully is any flow to them or if the water is static?
Originally Posted by MATT-FRST
Originally Posted by rapidcossie
should be quite an easy prob to solve.
would come and help if i didbt live so far away!
(tech eng for scottish gas)
would come and help if i didbt live so far away!
(tech eng for scottish gas)
british gas not good enuf for ya
british is better anyway

its centrica who actually pay my wages!
says scottish gas on the van tho!
Originally Posted by the sludge
the whole syatem is 3.5 years old
the system water is a frothy whitish colour.
i havnt removed any casings lol, as underneath is the access to refill the sytem. thats alli have doen on it to get it back to 1.8 bar
the system water is a frothy whitish colour.
i havnt removed any casings lol, as underneath is the access to refill the sytem. thats alli have doen on it to get it back to 1.8 bar
best off checking as low down on the system as you can
was all the pipework and rads installed with the boiler then?
still reckon its the pump
not unusual for a pump in a combi to last shorter than an open system pump as it is start stop start stop all the time (as it runs with hot water demand too)
Originally Posted by rapidcossie
Originally Posted by MATT-FRST
Originally Posted by rapidcossie
should be quite an easy prob to solve.
would come and help if i didbt live so far away!
(tech eng for scottish gas)
would come and help if i didbt live so far away!
(tech eng for scottish gas)
british gas not good enuf for ya
british is better anyway

its centrica who actually pay my wages!
says scottish gas on the van tho!
i am British gas in south london
wow 2 expertsthen cool
the water was taken from hallway rad, but saying that all water from all rads looked consistent ie i gues th efrothy shit is inhibitor.
yeh all rads and pipwrok and boiler was installed at same time
EXCEPT the rad inthe extension
the water was taken from hallway rad, but saying that all water from all rads looked consistent ie i gues th efrothy shit is inhibitor.
yeh all rads and pipwrok and boiler was installed at same time
EXCEPT the rad inthe extension
lol i bet
latest update to this is
all upstairs rads shut off
hallway piping hot even tho it didnt work earlier
lounge warmish
extension luke warm
so i turned hallway rad off, lounge and extension get s piping hot
latest update to this is
all upstairs rads shut off
hallway piping hot even tho it didnt work earlier
lounge warmish
extension luke warm
so i turned hallway rad off, lounge and extension get s piping hot
you really need to get the boiler casing off and have a look at the pump, even then just cos it spinning doesnt mean its ok....
we have a spcial program on laptops that when a special sensor is fitted can tell you how fast the pump is going.
are there any loud noises from the boiler itself?
for example a noise like build up in pressure that dies away then comes back?
(actually the water boiling in the heat exchanger cos the pump is not pumping it away fast enough)
we have a spcial program on laptops that when a special sensor is fitted can tell you how fast the pump is going.
are there any loud noises from the boiler itself?
for example a noise like build up in pressure that dies away then comes back?
(actually the water boiling in the heat exchanger cos the pump is not pumping it away fast enough)
Originally Posted by the sludge
wow 2 expertsthen cool
the water was taken from hallway rad, but saying that all water from all rads looked consistent ie i gues th efrothy shit is inhibitor.
yeh all rads and pipwrok and boiler was installed at same time
EXCEPT the rad inthe extension
the water was taken from hallway rad, but saying that all water from all rads looked consistent ie i gues th efrothy shit is inhibitor.
yeh all rads and pipwrok and boiler was installed at same time
EXCEPT the rad inthe extension
pump is Ł 113 on my system but i dunno if thats a reduced price for us or not
fook that, taking casing off lol, ill blow the whol street up pmsl
there a few weird noises like an acceleration of "wind " noise then dies off. This happens more if i press the +/- together causing boiler to to ignite and warm up from say 63 to 91 degress then cuts out
other than that it sounds normal
there a few weird noises like an acceleration of "wind " noise then dies off. This happens more if i press the +/- together causing boiler to to ignite and warm up from say 63 to 91 degress then cuts out
other than that it sounds normal
would 2nd matts opinion and prob change the pump.
why not take out a contract with british gas and it can all be sorted for about 15 quid a month!
cant believe i just promoted the company lol
makes sense tho!
why not take out a contract with british gas and it can all be sorted for about 15 quid a month!
cant believe i just promoted the company lol
makes sense tho!
i did dude
then i got fooke dover by bank issues (ie my bank paid sumon they shudnt have dun and now going through banking ombudsman cos ofall charges etc )
now i missed 2 payments BG want the full outstanding before they will comeout
then i got fooke dover by bank issues (ie my bank paid sumon they shudnt have dun and now going through banking ombudsman cos ofall charges etc )
now i missed 2 payments BG want the full outstanding before they will comeout


