The flow would normally be on the thermostatic valve side or the side that used to get hot first.

Shut the oposite valve down then undo the connection to the flow side. The water in the rad shouldn't flow out then and you can check if there is any water flow in the system.




You'll have to watch those blatent plugs for British Gas / Centrica / Scottish Gas etc - the thread may get deleted

 

would they replace a boiler/.rads ect for that price or just give me a jumo start and tell me where the nearest homebase is

 

they wont replace the boiler but they will replace components on the system for no extra charge (worth it if you have a combi boiler)

 

so your telling me if you pay the bill BG will fix it for nowt

got to be better than paying out Ł113 just for the pump

 

our service care is second to none!

 

probs best just bite the bulit and pay the full amount as you will end up paying more for a pump the someone to fit it.

what if that doesnt fix the prob??

unlimited call outs, parts and labour included sounds good too me lol!

 

why didnt they tell me about this when i bought this flat as would have saved me a fortune

 

did you ask ?

 

mate as i pay 60 quid a month on me gas bill i didnt think they where giving things away for good deals

 

lol - ya wanna stop heating up your garage, loft and basement 24/7 mate

 

@matt to bal

rapid cossie i think you could be right dude

 

thats the thing, i dint even have a gas cooker either

and my flat is the size of a shoe box cut in half


but dont worry if i do pay too much they will give it back,,,,,,,,,,,,,, like fook they will

how can ya have a esimated bill anyway,,,,,,,,,,,,, what i guess its gonna cost ya 60 quid to heat up ya flat


i estimated it would cost that a year,,,,,,,,,,, they went with there option

 

oi bal this my thread

 

[quote="b19bal"]at least when they finally get in to read the meter you will never pay a gas bill again!

 

i hope thats true

 

lol

 

you warmed up yet?

 

 

Few comments here ...

You got someone on this thread telling you to disconnect a feed to a rad to see if it has flow .. ravin mate .. If you do that with 1.5 to 2.0 bar pressure behind it .. you maybe know what a mess you might make That's 20-28psi .

Remember that a pump ... is really a circulation device just like a car water "pump" and designed to maintain a certain head of pressure according to the spec. You can stop a pump with your fingers .. that's normal with an inductance motor. They usually leak from the gland .. or seize up when not in use for a while. If it has inhibitor in the system and the pump is running without noise, starts ok, and also heats all those other rads ok .. except those odd two .. and has only been in use for 3 years, its unlikely to be the cause.

Looks like you already have inhibitor in the system .. you need to make sure you dont lose it all.

If you need to dislodge a lot of air, take the bleed plug right out .. but have it ready to replace and a cloth on the floor ready! lol

I had a problem similar to this on a fully-pumped system, after a builder had added an extra rad in a friends upstairs bedroom a few years back. He'd managed to get a big airlock under the floorboards .. mainly due to system design. I had to back-fill it with a hose from the drain point OK after a struggle.

Is this system 15mm copper .. 10mm Microbore .. or 8mm Microbore at the rads?

Oh! One other thing .. You check the flow with a temp check .. not flow of water. It's a pressurised system, so you will get a flow from a broken connection on supply AND return sides!

 

cheers for that

the system is 15mm copper.

see i reckon when the builders added that rad they have created an airlock. me and the missus was at work see when they did the build so i canthonestly say if they fully bled the sytem or not.

its seems strange why i have no water going to my shower either which is in our front bedroom.

maybe i shud just get a plumber out now then and swallow the cost

 

Yes mate .. I think they "did" something wrong somewhere . .a problem with shower feed leads me to believe that they connected something incorrectly.

I'd look for an experienced local plumber .. who can weigh up the layout and show him .. if you can .. where the builders stitched in the new pipework.

Good luck mate ...

 

cheers for all ya help and everyone else

 

dope forgot it was a sealed system lol

 

you cant stop new pumps with a screwdriver - it takes a hell of a lot of pressure on that pump to do that

its not uncommon for a combi pump to fail after a few years - some last for the life of the boiler but others can fail after a year.

if you really think its an air lock drain the whole system down, take every air bleed from the radiators so all the air os out of the system and start again.

fill the system to 1.5 bar and bleed all the radiators starting from the bottom all the way to the top. if after all this you still have problem heating the property CHANGE THE GOD DAMN PUMP

i work on combis every day and see on average 4-5 a day. this sounds very much like a pump problem and not an air lock. i have never had an air lock on a combi system....ever

 

So how else do you explain the change of heat transfer between individual rads so suddenly .. where, in this case .. there is not even any head required?
Is the circulator deciding for itself which rad to heat at what time? This was the clue all along, wasn't it?
Needs a system study, doesn't it?

 

if the pump is wearing down it will go down the easist route possible - if one circuit has lots of bends and it is struggling to push water round the system then it will take the easist route.

if 4 out of the 7 rads are shut off then the 3 rads will heat easily - but once you open up the other 4 it will struggle to push water round all 7 - thus taking the less restrictive routes back to the return circuit


i admit someone needs to be stood in front of the boiler - but its not rocket science.

if he drains the system down and refills then this should clear the air lock if there is one.

 

So explain how a pump wears down then .. I'm intrigued.

That pump has an impellor turning in a chamber filled with water (with inhibitor probably) The only thing touching (it the bearing hasn't collapsed) is the spindle in the bearing, isn't it?

This pump seems to be capable of driving all the upper floor rads .... and some of the lower ones at the same time ok tho!??

 

im not gonna have someone else tell me that all the pumps i changed didnt need changing and that it must have been a coincidence that the system suddenly started working once i filled the boiler back up.

the system doesnt just need to be blocked up with sludge to wear a pump out

hard water will have the same effect and combi's will wear out pumps much quicker than if they were fitted on a Y or S plan system due to the fact they are stop start all the time

 

Yes... There was something on TV about that sort only last week, wasn't there?

Pretty reliable brand, tho ... Valiant .. not like a Vokera

Agreed ... Pump over-runs and Heating/Cooling differential will help that one, unless it's an El Cheapo system.

 

you will not be able to stop a new pump with a screwdriver....

have change more than a few over my time lol

they can just seize for what seems like no reason.