When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Where and which brand of big ends, thrust washers, piston rings, etc
General Car Related Discussion.To discuss anything that is related to cars and automotive technology that doesnt naturally fit into another forum catagory.
Where and which brand of big ends, thrust washers, piston rings, etc
Im having the bottom end rebuilt on my 205 block and luckily it all standard bore and need to know where to buy the parts from as dont want to end up with cheap chinese crap.
are you suggesting that there are fake copies of pistons / rings / shells etc around?
I'm only familiar with chinese 'copies' of conrods of which i have used 2 sets both to 7700 without any problems. for about Ł200 a set they were perfectly machined, balanced and came with new arp bolts (the bolts were indistinguishable from genuine arp ones so i think they are genuine!). they compared favourably with arrows rods costing 4 times as much.
by contrast you could you could overhaul the stock rods by fitting new little ends / hone the big ends / buy new bolts etc and spend nearly as much then you finish up with 30 year old rods which imo is a bigger gamble than the chinese ones. for some reason the genuine rods seem to fetch crazy money on ebay so you can get most of your Ł200 investment back.
Go to ebay and put this number in 172952130459
i now only get my stuff from him . He did my long studs on my 200 block . This man only uses the best if you get in touch with him and tell him wot you need he will put you right and sort you out and you will get your parts I trust him I do have his phone number but I'm not putting it up on here
any of the bearings will be fine. the ACL ones are supplied unboxed as they went bust a few years ago. the king bearing are harder but ok.
as regards little ends - my experience is that even new pistons have worn pins after a couple of thousand miles (maybe 1 thou of wear on the pins on the ends where they run on the piston but ok in the centre where they run on the conrod bush). high mileage ones seem to wear the bush as well.
still not sure what you mean by 'cheap chinese ' however - king is usa and acl was oz
Got King bearings in mine Ran, along with Wossner pistons & PEC rods
Talk to James at Grace Engine Developments in Newbury, he did all the machining and put mine together for me
bearings wise i'd be happy with anything from ACL, King, Glyco or Mahle. People used to avoid king bearings because of king pistons, which were crap. Luckily though they are a completely different company and since ACL went bust a few years back, have taken the leap into making race bearings.
Piston rings i'd go for Goetze (AE) or Mahle if available. I've used NPR (nippon piston rings - japan) before without issue too.
For gaskets, victor reinz and payen are good. there is also glaser, which is usually just victor reinz stuff in different packaging and slightly cheaper (the same company owns both brands).
As a bit of insurance on the one im building I had my little ends replaced as well as getting new gudgeon pins because I am using used mint cond oversize 4wd pistons that I have
Personally speaking I would just to future proof the engine, that's why I did, it appears that no none wants to sell you gudgeon pins seperate from a set of pistons in this country so I got some pins from the states for aftermarket yb wiseco pistons that were slightly too long and had them machined down
just like you, i had a set of mint pistons with worn pins and replacing the pins made feel perfect again. however, like as i said in an earlier post, the pins seem to wear by a thou or so after just a couple of thousand miles then seem to stay happy like that untill the bush in the rod is worn and they make a noise.
speculating, it may be that uneven expansion of the piston as it heats up results in slight axis distortion of the piston's pin bore which leads to early wear on the pin ends and this additional clearance allows more oil in and equailibrium is reached untill the conrod bush wears out 20,000 miles later
Thats good to know I just couldn't find anyone that sold them seperate at the time rung around all the usual places for parts even contacted mahle, it worked out a similar cost with import tax and machining to the ones you mention, if it helps anyone if they are struggling to get some the wiseco part number is S627 and they just need shortening to the correct length