Rsmat

iTrader: (2)

I'm thinking of putting a 044 fuel pump on my escort ..what is the way way to approach this ..044 on and new line to my FPR800 or do you use the original fuel lines ?.

Thanks mat

Edit sorry wrong section ..feel free to move if a problem .

CheeRs

Adam-M

I’d aeroquip it Matt would be a shame not to after all the work your doing to it, the fuel pressure regulator goes on the return line back to the tank.

Rsmat

iTrader: (2)

Yea just been reading its the best way to go ..where is best to get aeroquip from mate and hose etc .

Martin-Hadland

iTrader: (2)

Don't use ordinary Aeroquip as it breathes and the car will smell of fuel, use Teflon lined hose if you're going stainless braided.

Adam-M

Seller called Torques on eBay Matt

This is the hose I’m gonna use:

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F360848182950

Rsmat

iTrader: (2)

Cheers Adam mate ill give them a message ..im just unsure what filter to run now and where to mount it .

RSmark84

Sytec do a nice looking pre pump filter anodised in blue or red and can be mounted into one of their bracket.

http://www.burtonpower.com/sytec-all...ebulleta6.html

and the bracket

http://www.burtonpower.com/sytec-fue...e-mpb001b.html

Rsmat

iTrader: (2)

Cheers Mark will take a look .

Rsmat

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for that Martin ..didnt know mate ..ill get Teflon lined.

RSmark84

You can mount it where the rear suspenion is(there's space where the RS1600i accumulator or what ever it was is mounted) to the left of the standard fuel pump is as you look under the car.

zetaboostboy522bhp

With the horse power you will be running you maybe want to look at a swirl tank or a sump being fabricated to the bottom of your tank. I would have a sump welded in to the tank with your -10 fitting for the prefilter then -10 to pump then -6 to -6 second filter (could be mounted in engine bay ) then -6 all the way to your fuel rail , then -6 from your fuel rail to your fuel pressure regulator then -6 from the return port on the regulator all the way back to the tank . If you have a sump made for the tank then put the fuel return pipe at the top of the sump so it's always filling the lowest section of your fuel tank so you can run nearly all your fuel with running dry. Also you can weld a -6 fitting on the bottom or low down on the side for a fuel drain fitted with a blanking plug.
Hope this helps

Cheers paul

Rsmat

iTrader: (2)

That's my next move when I buy a new tank ..its a 270-300hp road car so I'm not wanting to go to daft .

Caddyshack

Totally agree with Paul above. Make sure the back of the 044 is totally flooded with fuel.

zetaboostboy522bhp

It's not daft mat , the fuel system is very important and if you run the 044 pumps with little amounts of fuel they burn the motors out , end of the engine.
All you need is a 1 /2 litre round tub with the fitting welded on and weld a plate on top with a few holes with swaged edges going down into the sump then cut the hole in the tank and weld your steel sump onto the tank job done.
You can do it with a swirl pot but you would need a pot and probably a lift pump all at extra cost and then your added more pipe and fittings and also relying on another pump that could fail at any time , so again lift pump could fail so the 044 is doing all the work and you wouldn't even know about it.

Hope this helps

Cheers paul

zetaboostboy522bhp

Also make sure you buy your pump from a reliable tuner or genuine Bosch dealer as there are a lot of copies out there that will fuck your engine up. They are very good copies as well even Bosch had trouble finding the difference it was only when they flow tested them they could tell which was real.

Cheers paul

stevieturbo

Those little Sytec filters are shit. Fit a proper filter. Those Sytec filters have no place on any car that actually needs an 044...or had to cope with the flow volumes an 044 will produce.

Aeromotive, Earls/Holley, Fuelab etc etc.

Although an 044 on a car only making 300hp....there are probably more suitable pumps out there.

zetaboostboy522bhp

I agree with stevie , but I personally have never dealt with a mfi system so don't know where the pump is or mounted etc so I would for ease just rip it out and start again.
Also mat forgot to say last night have a look on jenvey website for a fuel rail and brackets that you could use for your inlet manifold not expensive either.

Cheers paul

Jay,

iTrader: (4)

I wouldn't recommend torques fittings either on oil or fuel seen plenty split or crack over the years . I would use think automotive stuff ok bit more expensive but cheaper than buying twice lol

jonfoc

I think I’ve got a couple of cosworth fuel pumps sat doing nothing Mat you can have them if you want.

Rsmat

iTrader: (2)

Going to have to order a new tank and look into this sooner than later mate by the sounds of it.

Yea I made sure I got a genuine one mate ..as id heard about the copies .

Going fuelLab mate ..and the pump id already sorted ..i might look into a cosworth pump instead .

I'm not MFI mate I'm Link G4 storm after market manangement.

You're not the first that's told me that since yesterday .

I wouldn't mind trying one mate if possible.

jonfoc

No worries mate. I’ll have a dig in the garage and see what I can find

Rsmat

iTrader: (2)

Super star mate ...really appreciate it.

zetaboostboy522bhp

I know mat that your now going to be running Efi on link system , I meant your cars fuel system if still original to the car is mfi so to me it would be easier to rip all that out and fit a modern new fuel system to work with your modern ecu.

Cheers paul

Rsmat

iTrader: (2)

Im already changing the lines I'm not using original its all coming off .


So if I buy a new tank will it be ok to have a sump fabricated on ya think mate ?

Caddyshack

Most proper tanks have a sump in them within the design, or just specify one with it. Allard built me one to a shape and size that I wanted.

zetaboostboy522bhp

What you using mat aftermarket alloy one or original metal tank? Either way very easy to do. Caddy shack the only problem I can see if using a original tank is how do you know where the sump is and personally i don't think it will be a sump more like a baffled area which is not always best if doing track days etc as it could be mounted on one side of the tank collect fuel when nearly empty and hard Corning in the opposite direction could cause shortage of fuel.

Cheers Paul

Rsmat

iTrader: (2)

I really wanted to keep standard tank really mate as it's a fully trimmed road car so want it looking as original as poss .

stevieturbo

The actual fittings ?

I've used quite a lot of them and never had an issue.

I wouldnt particularly say to use any of their rubber hose type stuff, but teflon etc, no problem. And the actual fittings, no problem.

slammedorion

I run a 044 pump fitted to a Sytec craddle

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F201660948805

With a Corsa b fuel filter and bracket
New injection tank with the internal swirl pot

Nowt to fancy... it works fine

zetaboostboy522bhp

Something like that

Rsmat

iTrader: (2)

Sounds good that mate ..

That looks a good idea mate .

slammedorion

You’ve gotta decide on where to stop on a road car
The above is a great idea, but the tanks sit low enough without extra bits below them...
You don’t wanna be ripping fuel lines off going over speed bumps etc...

zetaboostboy522bhp

It all depends if you want it for track days as well as driving on the roads . If just on road the simple just weld on the -10 and -6 fittings on to the original pipes on the tank and follow the basic fuel layout I've drawn .
It should be fine.

Cheers paul

jonfoc

There’s nothing to stop you keeping an original tank and using the pump to feed a swirl pot then use whatever feed pump you want to feed the engine. Use a return line back into the swirl pot. You can mount all this on the underside of the car near the wheel well or in the wheel well itself. Loads of the focus rs lads have done it. Original looks and ground clearance with the added safeguard and increased feed.

doga-ot

iTrader: (1)

Exactly this plus all new tanks are remakes and not original and the baffles inside are shit compared to original tanks I found this out on fitting to my cossie on hard cornering and track days i got fuel surge. I ended up fitting a fuel swirl pot, there are cheaper ways like fitting speial sponge block inside tank but with this you do lose tank capacity.

RSmark84

Curious about the diagram above, Would there be no requirement for a fuel filter before the fuel rail as per standard?

I just wonder why Ford never bothered with a pre pump filter as the pumps can fail due to build up. Years ago mine seized up and had gone brown inside.
I'm certain the Sierra RS Cosworth had both pre and post pump filters?

stevieturbo

Most say to use say 100 micron pre-pump and then 10 micron pre injectors.

How vital 10 microns or less is...really depends on the injectors. Some modern stuff can be very very fussy. Others less so.

Most say not to use a 10 micron pre-pump as this can be too restrictive...although there has to be huge variables there with filter flow ability and pump flow required.

I've used 40 micron pre-pump only on cars with no issue.....and I've used 30 micron with severe injector issues. Although that 30 micron was torques and clearly no way in hell was it filtering at 30 microns....but those injectors did also specify 10 micron max. Those ID injectors started failing within a matter of weeks on a low usage car.

Lessons there....IMO never use ID injectors, and never use that "30 micron" torques filter.

Always proper branded filters and less fussy injectors that can be looked at properly in the UK. ie ASNU.


Although as said, for many years I ran Siemens injectors ( and still use the same ones ) on my own car with only 40 micron Holley/Earls filters with zero problems, although after the issues on other cars I do now have a 10 micron pre-injectors too.


Filters are relatively cheap insurance....use them. 40-100micron of quality brand before the pump for an in-line pump...or proper bag strainer for in-tank.

And 10 microns or less, quality brand and style before the injectors. And ensure all filters are more than capable of handling the flow your pump setup will create.