stevieturbo

I wouldnt have any concerns using a BB Precision unit. More of the failures I've read of tend to be oil journals and turbos fitted to larger engines....often the turbo too small for the application.
In terms of performance, I'd take Precision for sure, plus if there are problems they are totally rebuildable.

Garretts seem to be less repairable in that sense. Some say they can be rebuilt, others say they cant.

turbotrev

What kinda revs does a decent gt40 variant make full boost?
Compared to its efr equivalent?

Cheers Paul

Mark Shead

I will need to see if I can find any of yums old graphs but a 9180 will spool about 500rpm earlier and make over 100hp more. A 8374 will spool close to 800rpm sooner and make about 50hp less than a gt40 all in twin scroll.

Mark

The Enigma

Lol. As you aren't a trader you can't post prices though. The only other place that seems to do them is Oppliger but they are over in Italy.

You talk a lot about the bigger EFR's on the twin scroll manifolds but until now I haven't noticed you mention the smaller ones on the B1 frame or single scroll manifolds to fit the bigger ones.

turbotrev

That would be interesting Mark.
And is a 9180 what Mark Hudd has on his 3dr now?

Cheers Paul

Mark Shead

The b1 is available in twin scroll and I have used them.
Best to buy the manifold from Italy then.

Mark

Mark Shead

Yes Mark has a 9180 on his 3dr.

Mark

Rod-Tarry

Mark what was the Turbo that didn't work well on mine on the Dyno & we changed it overnight. Was that a GT40 variant.

Mark Shead

A gt4094 was the one that surged.

Mark

The Enigma

Sorry I think I might be coming off in the wrong way. It is just hard to work out how much a twin scroll manifold for a 6758 and a twin scroll 6758 would cost? Turbo dynamics seem to list the single scroll on their website so I'm guessing the twin scroll is going to be more?

Mark Shead

There is very little cost diff between the Efr single to twin scroll.

Mark

nixon_2wd

Italy manifolds from Oppliger are totally shit quality. A friend of mine bought one and had to send it back as it was mig welded. Huge pearls rested inside the collector and all joints, begging to disintegrate the turbine. The one he then recieved (tig welded) did not look any better imo.


Marks manifolds are state of the art, exceptional quality.

crazycage

There must be plenty places that will build a decent manifold in the uk that don't charge the earth

ajamesc

There are but you end up with a cheap manifold that don't flow or cracks after a year lol.

crazycage

What ones don't flow and crack then ? I find it hard to belive there is only one place in the uk that can build a decent manifold

MK MOTORSPORT

iTrader: (1)

hi
i have seen your work ,so you could and i would like to see it with equal length primarys and rotational firing order which the ones i have seen are not even though they are well made but also very heavy
mark

stevieturbo

I'd have little doubt there are numerous places.

But it's a small market, and no matter what business makes them no proper manifold will be cheap.

Rod-Tarry

I went Inconel because the supposed best kept cracking when faced with Power. I cant say with Marks new one but as a designer will say if its steel it will crack its the level of abuse it can take before that happens that may set it apart. Still its Ł3k against Ł1k & you get what you pay for.

stevieturbo

Lets face it...how many Cossies actually do enough miles these days to hurt most decent quality manifolds ?

Rod-Tarry

You are correct Stevie the Daddy Thrash & 40secs at 100% WOT are gone. I tend to think if you have 650bhp you are going to prove it but its just a figure these days.

Jay,

iTrader: (4)

Thats the thing that puts many off is the cheapest fannymold that actually hold together are 850+vat so by the time you buy a efr turbo and get it on the car your knocking on the door of 2.5k .So many people wont pay that just improve response 500-600 rpm let alone the costs to sped the engine better to get the full use of the turbo...

Caddyshack

Hits the nail on the head, Jay. By the time you do a loom, Standalone with coil on plug, manifold, mapping (fitting) plus the Turbo then you have done Ł5k to Ł7.5k.


Then standard engine rebuild is Ł3500 plus any go faster bits such as head, long studs to take the boost, cams decent Intercooler and Hart type inlet and you can EASILY have done another Ł7k by the time it is built up by someone that you trust to build the engine with this much money in not to let it go pop.


So Ł14k later you have a wonderfully reliable 550 or more bhp engine...MANY will not pay that. Then if a 4wd car you need another Ł5k plus gearbox and diff etc to stop it breaking.


Trust me I am just over half way through.

ajamesc

Do as most do and as many I know have! Take it too such and such fast cars are us who will build you a full spec 700bhp engine that's not fast and only lasts a year all in for less than 7 grand lol. Or if you know your stuff and know what's really needed to get a modern spec extremely fast high horse power car you just have to deal with it and pay the money if it's what you want and you want it to last

turbotrev

Your going efr aren't you James?

But big Hp?

Cheers Paul

ajamesc

Yes mark is building my engine I'm looking for 650-680 hopefully we have talked about using the 9180.

turbotrev

Cool!
The big boy turbo eh! Nice

Cheers Paul

nixon_2wd

Why the 9180 at that power level and not 8374?

ajamesc

I'm sure Mark said it will easily make the power without using high boost levels. Nothing concrete yet I haven't brought the turbo just the manifold. But it's one Mark suggest. I've said a power figure I'll go with what ever he recommends

Caddyshack

What needs to be done to the engine for 600 bhp plus compared to a 530 engine.? On a 530 engine I think you need long studs, pocketed Pistons? New cam and a flowed head. Do you need to go on and do rods and crank / liners? I know you need rods any way as you threw one.

ajamesc

I had to start again as my old engine was scrap lol. 200 block with iron liners and long studs. Had to get a standard grind crack. Rods pistons and my head is being modded to solid lifters. Cams and I'm having to up grade my fuel system breather system and clutch

smiley

Which inlet are you useing mate? And ecu emtron?

ajamesc

My car already had a hart inlet st throttle body spac-r cooler and autronic sm4 ecu

Nash

iTrader: (3)

I am one of these Jay.

For a lot of people me included my cars a toy, now I enjoy it as the shonkey old Sierra that it is even in its outdated Old Sokol format. Would spending Ł5-6k not including an engine rebuild give me Ł5-6k worth more enjoyment from it by going down the EFR route properly? For me the answer is no, but and I say this as a big but. If I was building a car from scratch and didn't have all the bits I already have I would I go EFR and all the gubbins, I would say most probably as the costs then are not as great. I am guessing it would only cost the price of a manifold more as the turbos are not really anymore expensive than anything else.

Fair play to the people who have the money to do it this way I can't knock you. I just struggle to justify the car as it sits now let alone spending another Ł5-6k on it just so it comes on boost earlier.

ajamesc

I made a bit selling old bits I got 700 I think for my old gt3076 but got some shit as I was told it's a turbo not suited to a cosworth engine and needed a new compressor wheel and housing lol I'd have just picked a different tuner! Also I'll get 1000 for my old gripper diff. I only paid 300 I think for my 200 block from mt plus I'll save buying rods old fuel pump. I also sold my old spec-r breather system for good money and got the same one rod uses for a very good price from a high spec escort that was being broke for parts. Same with my mk beam I got that cheap second hand so I've been lucky with a few bits.

Nash

iTrader: (3)

Don't get me wrong I know I can make some money back off the bits I already have but its still a good few k's to change. Building a whole knew engine like you are in the process of doing I can understand getting the spec on turbo etc to match.

I already have a proper gearbox (tko600) and 10.5 jag rear diff and beam, so I was just talking about engine related parts really.

ajamesc

It is expensive but I'm in a position at the moment to be able to waste the money. All the banter aside any yb with over 500bhp on the road is a massively fast car what ever turbo you use compared to the majority of cars you come up against and gives a huge grin factor as it fish tails up the road lol. I always said if mine broke I'd go for next level it was a very fast car and realistically thinking about it I should have just rebuilt what I had. But I took this route and it will be finished

Nash

iTrader: (3)

Exactly my point, I will not knock anyone doing it. I simply cannot justify it myself for the amount I use the car and how much I already enjoy it.

Adam-M

Fair play to you for still wanting to improve your Sierra when a lot of people are going back to standard, buying 2nd hand bargains is what you've gotta do unless your on 100k per year lol

What gearbox you using and why you getting rid of the gripper? I presume it's cos your fitting a supra diff?

ajamesc

I'm on a cts big tooth. I got rid of the gripper as the crown wheel and pinion is too week. I broke one with 500lb ft

Adam-M

So cts big tooth box in a t5 casing, how much was that and how much power will it handle? Can't you get the crown wheel cryogenically treated or does it not make any difference?