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ignition retarding

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Old Jan 17, 2013 | 09:52 AM
  #1  
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From: kent
Default ignition retarding

ive done the bolt on part of a turbo conversion but now need advice.
engines a 2.8 cologne lump and is now running a single turbo janspeed conversion. both banks feed the turbo courtesy of a crossover pipe.
the turbo's a draw thru type and has an su carb off an sd1 rover bolted directly onto the turbo.
the ignition is still run by the original duraspark unit that came wit the car (mk2 granada)
ive been told that the set up wont produce much so just retarding the timing 10 degrees will be enough. however ive also been told that ill need a little more than that and need an ignition retarder like am ems6.
anyone know for sure???
how do you wire an microdynamics ems6 into a granadas wiring???
i may sound stupid but if i dont ask and try.....and then fail ill look broke and stupid
ive also seen that you can modify a saab vacume unit to suit but got no where with that route,anyone know if theres somewhere that builds them at all???
are there any other units that would suit???
im not loaded so cheaper the better within reason
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Old Jan 17, 2013 | 12:51 PM
  #2  
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It works different with a FI engine, as ignition is retarded on boost, so when you are told 10°, with what load is this?

Electronic control is preferred as this can be 'mapped' easily at different "Load sites", and you then have better control, also carbs can take alot of setting up, in terms of needles etc, with FI.

I don't know, but I don't think a vacuum advance unit is sutiable on a FI setup, tbh.

Martin
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Old Jan 17, 2013 | 04:47 PM
  #3  
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From: Norn Iron
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Until it is running there is no way to make guesses. You could end up retarding it for no reason.

Ignition is an important area, and you really should seek out a capable tuner when it is running. You could try just retarding the dizzy by 10deg, but that is a lot, and I doubt you actually need to go that far.

There will probably still be mechanical advance weights inside the dizzy, and any competent tuner should be able to work with these to limit high rpm advance for an easy cost free solution ( other than labour )

Years ago, the common bolt on option was a double diaphragm advance unit. Vac advance as normal under vac, but it also offered a boost retard option. I'd say you'll struggle to find one of those these days though

But no matter what method you go for, it will need someone competent to check the engine is not detonating in any shape or form.
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Old Jan 18, 2013 | 01:44 PM
  #4  
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From: kent
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thanks mate
cars a runner but at the moment but only when the choke is on. i would guess that why it was dying off after a short while before.
ive got a place to go but wont drive it there for fear of breaking something
its developed a miss too which wasnt there back when i first started it in june???????. im guessing ill be having the plugs out for a look at them over the next few days.
im guessing the vacume things a no no then
the place i was going to go is called sanspeed in bexleyheath (kent)
many people recomended them but after a call to their shop/garage it turns out that its a man called graham who does the older stuff.
they also have a selection of su needles and whatever else they have in su carbs. im getting the daily drivers tow bar wired on monday so ill look into hiring a car trailer to tug it to the garage. just dont like knowing nothing about whats going on and being royally ripped off thanks to my own ignorance
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Old Jan 18, 2013 | 05:09 PM
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From: Norn Iron
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As long as the guy has experience tuning engines, preferably turbocharged then hopefully he'll be ok.

Really...it's a minefield though. Far too many people claiming they can, but in reality havent a damn clue but will still take peoples money.
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