Which ones best? Who's tried both with pro's and cons of both

 

afaik the gripper diff is good but the weak point is the crown wheel & pinion & when it breaks it could take out the lot so very expensive .but the supra diff is pretty much bomb proof & the turbo versions were lsd as standard .And are a bolt in conversion no welding needed at all .you can pick up second hand diffs for Ł125 delivered as well
http://www.tcbparts.co.uk/ ask for Trevor.

 

ps MK motorsport is making a kit to fit ,& it is all billet no welded parts so it will fit first time.

 

I'd do jag diff... After driving a gripper and not liking it mate IMO

 

I've got a Jag diff waiting to go on my 3dr

 

I've got a gripper diff which is practically brand new but I'm considering selling it and buying the supra conversion instead, hence this thread

 

Both diffs have there weaknesses , grown wheel and pinion can also be a problem on the supra diff due to the collapsible washer . But fitted with a shimmed solid washer prevents this , also the spring load on the lsd will make big difference to the torque breaking load . I'm actual going down the supra route but the diff will be rebuilt before getting used , new bearings , seals , solid washer and a kaaz super q lsd .

These diffs are over 20 years old with probable high mileage to go with that , i bet a lot of these diffs will be spinning one wheel ...lol

 

John do you have links to any of the companies able to supply parts for these, as said before I would like to get mine rebuilt to standard spec but solid washer

 

my mates 3 dr eats gripper diffs so he is going jag route too

 

i find it hard to be leave has has Busted a gripper diff! Do you mean he has Busted the crown wheel or pinion! I have a gripper and its a good diff I have busted 1 c.w.p but I do have around 500lb ft of torque now I have a shot peened one but don't drive like a twat so I'm confident it will be fine! Mate also has a supra one and it dosnt lock the wheels that well

 

hi
they are very good diffs ,but expensive proberly about Ł1500/Ł1800 by the time is fitted in the beam with shafts

mark

 

I put a lot of it down to his driving style as he has had 2 in the last 2 years and both have bit the dust but he does drive like an animal, so he has gone the expensive route and only time will tell when its installed in january if it was the right decision as its in the spray shop at moment having a winter make-over

 

Any thoughts on the m5 diff in a cossie

 

hi
i think the supra diff seems to be the way to go ,it seems to take abuse,cheap to buy not to hard to fit and you can use your standard shafts

mark

 

Hi Chris , i did post on the last thread about a company in america about a rebuild kit . I
will have a look for the details for you .

I think the gearbox man does rebuild on these but i'm still in Europe so can't ring them .

 

Any updates on these kits Mark

 

Can we try and keep this thread on track please

 

there a beam on ebay sorted for a jag diff with shafts an everything

 

You should be fitting a beam well before changing the diff. Not much point in fitting a strong diff if you aint got any grip. IMO the Jaguar 10" is the solution & if its Power Loc the grip obtained is incredible. Cost. beam fitted with diff & shafts was Ł1700 & the diff cost Ł20 + a Ł400 overall. Does the prop need changes with the Supra diff. The standard shafts will twist like coke cans with big power.

 

hi rod
you will struggle get a diff now for Ł20 more like Ł250/Ł500, no supra uses standard prop no mods just adapter same as shafts , do you think it will twist standard shafts just i never heard of it doing that

mark

 

Rods comments are always pointless when it comes to this site, everything his car requires has to be uprated beyond levels that most car's need.

 

The original jag conversion used the standard shafts, I know i had it !

I also put 6741ft/lb of torque through them with 10" wide slicks, so they can take the power. Maybe a little shy of Rods, but still healthy enough.

 

hi mark
which shafts because none of them will bolt straight

mark

 

Ha ha I'm refrained from saying what I want to say lol..cry:

 

what did you have a container boat engine?

i think supra is the way to go personally, with marks kit and the cost of a rebuilt supra diff it dosnt make much sense to go any other way.

ive got a titan plated 7.5 because i like the way i can choose my ramp angles and preload and the way it will lock when i jump on the throttle (mainly because i will be a moron) but if i do break it i want to go 9" or supra if funds are short

 

The standard jag 1/4 shafts had adapters welded onto the end of them.

Think torque multiplication jimbo, or do you not have gearboxes/diff ratios.

 

Why would you talk through torque multiplication that just makes it arkward for us to compare to other engines?

 

Tbh gripper with a updated treated crown and pinion is all what most need there seems to be a lot of hype over the supra diff it's a big heavy dif to fit in that standard beam and the jag diff is faultless IMO spend money wisely so spend once lol

 

No, that gives you a real life figure as to what the components have handles, you can change the characteristics of the engines output to the road by using gear ratios.

 

hi ja
i thought you were a fan of the supra conversion ,the jag is far heavier and twice as much work to fit and 4 times as much money

mark

 

It just didn't make sense when people above are talking engine torque thats all mark but I understand why now, even though I did think you were driving a monster diesel lol

 

I'm a fan of what works with the least bother lol I had a gripper in mine and worked brilliantly and having the crown and pinion treated works for most

With the supra diff I can't help but think it work better mounted differently but that's just my opinion

 

i agree with that ja

how do you think it should be mounted ,and what do you think is wrong with the way it has been mounted in the conversions already done

mark

 

lol, would be nice at the fly for sure

 

i can`t comment directly on "feel" but i do know that the crownwheel on the 106 application diff is a weak point and have seen 5 or 6 shed teeth now with only 16v 1600cc NA power/torque going thru them....


if its any defence of them in all cases there customer service has been immense and problems fixed straight away...

 

Would defo go Supra if I had another Cossie.

As above, the Gripper (or Bara/Quaife etc...) all use the standard CWP. I broke a CWP on less than 400 bhp, so wouldn't consider an uprated diff that still used a standard CWP.

 

Hmm well I'm still unsure whether to keep the gripper or go for the supra..
What is a gripper worth?
And if I were to keep it where can I get a stronger cwp?

 

You can't get a stronger one, hence the problem with them. It's the physical size of the teeth that's the problem.

I think some companies do shot-peen them to help them last.