tubular manifold warped by 3mm on both ends of the mounting flange, its an odd shape 6 branch turbo banana bunch looking manifold with external wastegate hanging out the side, im trying to find someone who would have the clamping capability to hold it in a mill, there must be someone out there who does them isnt there ?

 

It will warp again.
Cut between the ports so there 6 individual ports and fabricate a turbo damper

 

Any decent machine shop should b able to hold that

 

Had the same thing happen to my Cossie tubular manifold, but couldn't find anyone that could hold it due to the shape.
Had it done on a large table top industrial belt sander in the end.
Rich

 

If you cut it now it will be all over the place...

 

im not cutting it no way, in my opinion it has done most of its warping now so i just want to get it squared off which means 3mm off the middle and it will be flat, i will find someone to do it but if someone knew someone who does this sort of thing it could be done alot quicker, im running out of time fast for some pod fun this year lol

 

Agreed. Check your other topic, I suggested welding it up then refacing it so you don't loose any strenght

 

why dont you get a piece off inch plate,drill wholes in it to match the manifold bolt holes and clamp it down with a 6mm packer in the middle of the manifold flange,then heat it up in the middle and slowly tighten the end bolts down until you have taken the 3mm of warping out off it,just a idea if you carnt find anyone to machine it for you,it might sound a bit of a bodge but it does work.

 

i could but im just bending it back and it will warp again, it needs building up and flating or milling down 3 mm in the middle for a proper job.

 

i'm not that teech savvy but shouldn't each branch off the manifold have a separately cut flange so they can be clamped individually, then use a turbo hanger/damper to help support the weight?

 

Can you fab up a jig to hold it secure to make it easy for a company to face it ?

it would need to be sturdy and best welded together, but you could just cut it off afterwards.

I used to have a guy that did stuff like that for me with no problems or hassles at all. Yet when you went to normal machine shops they all said it was near impossible and they couldnt do it.
More like they are just thick or cant be arsed.

Have you tried contacting some exhaust fabricators to see if they can help ?

 

i hadnt thought of that mate, i have an old bridgeport mill in my workshop i can use to get it squared in where i want it, i cant face it as the bed is broke on the bridgeport.
i guess i could get it where i want it and weld some legs and a base block on it.
ive done abit of turning but literally naff all milling as it broke not long after we got it

 

making up a rigid frame and welding the manifold to it shouldnt require any specialist work.

It may not be pretty, but as long as it holds the flange rigid to be milled or faced by some means, that's all you need.

The other alternative is to have new flanges cut and weld this onto the manifold after cutting off the warped ones.

That would be DIY'able if you have the inclination and welder

I know a guy who can waterjet you out flanges at a very sensible price

 

Google andy Robinson race cars near basingstoke he can do anything he has milling equipment to worth a ring and a chat he may say post it down

 

My place could probably do it, but would need to see it properly first

the even better news is that we're only down the road

http://www.cambridge-rebores.co.uk/

 

to be honest mate with most of the primaries being welded to each other on that manifold then i would say it will keep on warping regardless of what you do to it

 

its a hks manifold, from what i can gather its done 29000 miles and 4000 miles ago the new turbo was fitted where they cut of the vband turbo mount flange and had a t4 footplate flange welded on, i would say the warp has come from where the foot plate flange was cut off and new one welded on they probably didnt have it bolted on a jig when they done it.
once its flat as long as everything will still fit it will be fine im sure.
the picture isnt the actual manifold just a reference similar hks manifold pic.

 

From the photo, it looks like the primaries are welded 3+3, that should be sufficient to protect against warping provided the flange is a suitable thickness.

I certainly wouldnt want individual flanges. Plus the fact the pipes turn downwards on exiting the head, this should also allow for some expansion and contraction during use without putting too much pressure on the flange.

 

Why not just use a flat belt sander?

 

Can you not get some 3mm shims made up?
Or a 2mm shim with a gasket either side?

I had my 2wd cossie exhaust slimmed, did the head flange, trouser flange, both sides of the trouser section and the turbo housing.
It cost me Ł70 at my local machine shop i use, he quite often does inlets/exhaust refacing.

Im sure he could do yours but hes not quick.

 

Any good machine shop should be able to fab something up to hold that.

You should see some of the stuff the machine shops come up with to hold parts we design that dont have any flat surfaces and are 100% machined.

 

They should be able to. Most just wont bother their arse though.

I had manifolds done ages ago. Mate in the Railways did them no problem at all.

I then tried to get a well known local place to do them a few years later....Such a nightmare. He did get them done and then charged me a fortune stating it took hours to get them set up etc.
Load of balls. Using their brains it could have been done easily in a few minutes.

 

the pic above is just a generic pic, my hks manifold has had the vband flange cut off and a t4 footplate welded on, heres some pics shows extent of warping on the 2 end pics where ive got the manifold held flat on my bridgeport mill bed, and the black marked area is the area that isnt warped, so i need it setting up in a jig so the mill is dead square to the black area then taking down all over approx 3mm to square it off.

 

There are a few DIY options you could try.

1. Cut it into 3 x 2 port sections and see if that will allow it to clamp straight. Although it may make it worse.

2. Leave as a single piece and bolt it to a spare head or solid chunk of steel. And cut some of the pipes where they meet the flange and re-weld with the flange secured flat.

I definitely wouldnt cut it into 6 separate flanges. Maybe 3 x 2, or 2 x 3 would help a little though.

 

well ive had it on a steel gurder as a straight edge, with a 1mm raiser on the straight edge and heated it and clamped it down, i started with a 3mm raise at each end, it now has a 1mm raise at each end with a 0.5mm kink where the bend was but the kink is inbetween ports anyways so irrelevant, im sure the manifold will pull in 1mm, and i have a stock nissan gasket which is 1.3mm thick and plyable so it will give more than a multi layer steel.
im going to take it to the welder in the morning and see what he thinks, im sure it will go now though

 

i'm not having a go chap but am interested to know whether this one was built by a "known" garage/tuner? After the bodges you found on the supra (that were charged top dollar for!) it makes you wonder how much of the work that's turned out by "top" tuning firms (HKS in this case for the fannymould) and/or the dudes bolting it together ain't what it should be.......

 

Stainless steel warps and cracks....nothing unusual about that.

 

fair enough - as i said earlier up the thread i'm not that tech savvy, not accusing anyone.

 

well its blowing again on number 6 again, ive got no margin for error so ive decided i want it machineing.
ive made a flat base and got it spirit level square it bolts to it with the t4 turbo flange.
if it needs anything to clamp to it can just be welded to my base plate now.




im hopeing now ive done that any machine shop should be able to skim it easy like a cylinder head.

 

if you read back a few posts mate there a guy in cambrdgeshire thats said he could prob do it for you!!

 

I would think the actual manifold flange would need welded to a solid structure for it to be machined. Using the tubes for support they will flex when the cutting head is passing over it
You'll just have to weld it up then cut them off again.

Although if it can be surface ground that might be easier ?

 

I'm sure the guy who did mine can do it for you but as said before, he's not that quick.

 

I can do it at work. Done one for luke89 on here. The only car I've seen running a gt35 ext waste gate on a 4x4 fanny mould

 

spoke to cambridge rebore this morning, will need a jig hence ive been messing about making something today.


a friend of a contractor i know has said a few minutes ago he can do it, hes coming in the morning to take a look, but he reckons hes got adjustable blocks it can be mounted to and he will mill it, so il see what he sais in the morning, if thats a no go then il take it to cambridge rebore monday and see what they say.

 

try bottom line engineering in the isle of man! send them some pics and ask them for a quote, ask for Dean!

 

Did you give Dyno Torque a bell?
They put a brand new belt on yesterday as well.
Rich

 

it will defo need bracing at both ends of the head flange or it will chatter like hell and destroy the cutter

 

i did mate rang a few times no answer.
ive got someone supposed to be picking it up today.

 

Weird?
I was there from 13:30 til 16:00 they don't go in till late on a saturday but they are usually there from 10:00.
Least you're getting it sorted mate.
Here's the photo's of the Dyno Torques Belt Sander:


Rich

 

It's actually amazing that a bit of sandpaper is so effective at removing solid metal !