Turbosmart boost tee
#1
Professional Waffler
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Does anyone run one of these?
I do and am not happy at all with it. I set my -31 actuator to the advised 'half moon' base setting which runs the boost at 7psi with the pipe direct from turbo to actuator. If I then bring the TS boost tee into play and connect that up, on the lowest setting possible it runs at a peak of 11psi and drops to 9. I want about 14/15 at the moment, so one turn on the boost tee and it does not alter it. Another little turn and Im flying up to 20psi! I cant set it to what I want. Anyone else had this? Im thinking of binning the thing
I do and am not happy at all with it. I set my -31 actuator to the advised 'half moon' base setting which runs the boost at 7psi with the pipe direct from turbo to actuator. If I then bring the TS boost tee into play and connect that up, on the lowest setting possible it runs at a peak of 11psi and drops to 9. I want about 14/15 at the moment, so one turn on the boost tee and it does not alter it. Another little turn and Im flying up to 20psi! I cant set it to what I want. Anyone else had this? Im thinking of binning the thing
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#7
It Wasnt Me!
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![](http://www.turbosmartusa.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/parts_BoostTee.jpg)
What a whole lot of shite that's not needed....
Fit a standard brass bleed valve with none of that crap inside, and it will work better. infact a T piece with a restrictor would probably work better Lee.
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#9
It Wasnt Me!
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Very true Lee, I don't see what's wrong with a good old conventional bleed valve though, all these boost controlers and fancy dawes devices like you have.
the ball bearing and spring are basically to prevent the boost acting upon the wastegate early, so the ball bearing stays shut 'til X pressure, opens and then the bleed screw sets the boost to whatever PSI youve screwed it to. basically a lot of bollocks that can just make it more difficult to set up IMO, good thing with a bleed valve is you fit it, adjust it and forget about it.
the ball bearing and spring are basically to prevent the boost acting upon the wastegate early, so the ball bearing stays shut 'til X pressure, opens and then the bleed screw sets the boost to whatever PSI youve screwed it to. basically a lot of bollocks that can just make it more difficult to set up IMO, good thing with a bleed valve is you fit it, adjust it and forget about it.
#10
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Ive got a turbosmart tee fitted, half moon pre-load on wastegate.
If i wind it all the way out, it runs wastegate pressure 7-8psi/0.5bar and i found 10clicks in (ish) to be about 0.8bar. Im mapping mine atm, so havnt turned it up anymore.
It does what i want it too fine, the only thing i can complain about is that it peaks at 1bar and then drops and holds 0.8bar, i'd like it to peak and hold the same figure.
If i wind it all the way out, it runs wastegate pressure 7-8psi/0.5bar and i found 10clicks in (ish) to be about 0.8bar. Im mapping mine atm, so havnt turned it up anymore.
It does what i want it too fine, the only thing i can complain about is that it peaks at 1bar and then drops and holds 0.8bar, i'd like it to peak and hold the same figure.
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Last edited by Stu @ M Developments; 12-04-2012 at 07:01 PM.
#16
It Wasnt Me!
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So how does it work? It's a bleed valve with a daft ball bearing held closed by a spring, which (apparently) stops the wastegate opening early (yea maybe on a really soft actuator)
other than "mildly modified turbocharged engines and factory turbo cars (which is pretty generic) " you don't explain why you use them on some cars and not on others?
What makes them better than a normal bleed valve? Why does it have a "restrictor nipple" when it's got adjustment already to vary boost pressure? seems daft...
Afaik, Lee is using it on an rs turbo engine which i'd assume was standard or mildly tuned.
Last edited by vroooom ptssssh; 12-04-2012 at 07:33 PM.
#17
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It's a bleed valve with a daft ball bearing held closed by a spring
which (apparently) stops the wastegate opening early (yea maybe on a really soft actuator)
other than "mildly modified turbocharged engines and factory turbo cars (which is pretty generic) "
What makes them better than a normal bleed valve?
Why does it have a "restrictor nipple" when it's got adjustment already to vary boost pressure?
seems daft...
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#19
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I assumed so and you have confirmed it. Most people dont, and they are an interesting and useful tool compared to a standard bleed valve. Need Lee to tell me what he has so i can figure out why I told him this was the best one as he is the one who really needs, and has indeed asked for advice. There is therfore little point me spouting a load of stuff on his topic that is irrelevant to him.
We sell a few different types of boost control valve, but him having an RST makes sense as these are the easiest to fit to KE without having to mess about with the metering unit.
We sell a few different types of boost control valve, but him having an RST makes sense as these are the easiest to fit to KE without having to mess about with the metering unit.
Last edited by Stu @ M Developments; 12-04-2012 at 09:00 PM.
#20
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Hi Stu,
It is as said and RST turbo setup in my RS1600i.
Basic spec is (if this matters)
Hybrid turbo
-31 actuator
Full front pro alloy intercooler.
Stage 2 P&P head plus cam
Running RS1600i inlet.
Chipped ECU.
Im hoping to have it setup and run around 190 even though I reckon 200 would be acheivable. At the moment though I want to run about 15psi max till I get it setup properly.
Cheers
It is as said and RST turbo setup in my RS1600i.
Basic spec is (if this matters)
Hybrid turbo
-31 actuator
Full front pro alloy intercooler.
Stage 2 P&P head plus cam
Running RS1600i inlet.
Chipped ECU.
Im hoping to have it setup and run around 190 even though I reckon 200 would be acheivable. At the moment though I want to run about 15psi max till I get it setup properly.
Cheers
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Last edited by Lee Reynolds; 13-04-2012 at 05:59 PM.
#21
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from what i can see they look like a good idea as it will allow it to leak a required amount of boost, but off boost the gate/ball will stop the system drawing in air and upseting the running but might be wrong
Last edited by CHUNKYS RS; 13-04-2012 at 05:59 PM.
#23
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Works nicely now on my cosworth,boost comes hard because of the ball valve.
Nice piece of kit!
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