RS Turbo Rev-Limiter - HELP
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RS Turbo Rev-Limiter - HELP
Need some help guys....
I bought a MicroDynamics Rev limiter from Markk a couple of months ago and just got round to fitting it today but I hit a few problems.
See pics below:
Working from left to right is (Chassis Earth, Coil -tive, Coil + tive, test (Don't know what thats for))
Firstly I wired up the Chassis earth to and earth , Coil -tive to the black wire coming out of the coil and the Coil + tive to one of the postive coil feeds.
Before I went out in the car I tried the rev limit screw and it just turns and turn either way (never hits a stop).
Went out in the car and at about 4k it cut in for about 2 seconds then just drives straight through to 6k The adjustment screw doesn't seem to do anything.
Any way......tried re-wiring it into both the wires which enter the +tive side of the coil and that made no difference whatsoever
I was expecting the re-limiter to hit a limit then stop the revs going further...and it should obviously have adjustment.
Has anyone and ideas?? Have I done something silly??
I bought a MicroDynamics Rev limiter from Markk a couple of months ago and just got round to fitting it today but I hit a few problems.
See pics below:
Working from left to right is (Chassis Earth, Coil -tive, Coil + tive, test (Don't know what thats for))
Firstly I wired up the Chassis earth to and earth , Coil -tive to the black wire coming out of the coil and the Coil + tive to one of the postive coil feeds.
Before I went out in the car I tried the rev limit screw and it just turns and turn either way (never hits a stop).
Went out in the car and at about 4k it cut in for about 2 seconds then just drives straight through to 6k The adjustment screw doesn't seem to do anything.
Any way......tried re-wiring it into both the wires which enter the +tive side of the coil and that made no difference whatsoever
I was expecting the re-limiter to hit a limit then stop the revs going further...and it should obviously have adjustment.
Has anyone and ideas?? Have I done something silly??
#2
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basically , the unit has to be grounded on the far outside pin , then the other two go to the outside of the coil as per connection one to -ve and the other to +ve and thats it
this might help you , as for the screw , ive never turned it to a mass amount i just used it and adjusted to suit , it came to you set at 7500rpm
this might help you , as for the screw , ive never turned it to a mass amount i just used it and adjusted to suit , it came to you set at 7500rpm
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Hmmm something strange then....
Mark when it cuts in does it stop the revs rising any further? Just like a modern day soft-cut limiter? Because when I have fitted it just holds back for about 2 seconds then drives straight through to 6k?
On an RS Turbo there are 2 +tive wires into the coil, does it need connecting into both of these do you know?
If not I'll just have another play with it and see what I can do
Mark when it cuts in does it stop the revs rising any further? Just like a modern day soft-cut limiter? Because when I have fitted it just holds back for about 2 seconds then drives straight through to 6k?
On an RS Turbo there are 2 +tive wires into the coil, does it need connecting into both of these do you know?
If not I'll just have another play with it and see what I can do
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On the coil.....
One side has one black wire going into it....the other side has two smaller green wires.
I tested it with the ignition on and the green side had power the black didn't
One side has one black wire going into it....the other side has two smaller green wires.
I tested it with the ignition on and the green side had power the black didn't
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The black (should be) is an ignition feed.
The 2 green wires are a negative pulsed output from your ECU to switch the coil on and off. The other is a signal wire for the rev counter to count the pulses....
If you have no live feed on the black wire, your car theoretically shouldn't run. The coil will be marked pos and neg on the terminals....
The reason why the green wires show up as live when the car is not running is because there is no connection to earth. Try it with the car running....
The 2 green wires are a negative pulsed output from your ECU to switch the coil on and off. The other is a signal wire for the rev counter to count the pulses....
If you have no live feed on the black wire, your car theoretically shouldn't run. The coil will be marked pos and neg on the terminals....
The reason why the green wires show up as live when the car is not running is because there is no connection to earth. Try it with the car running....
#7
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hmm i think youve wired it poss backwards m8
i hope you didnt test the coils wires with them still attached to the coil ? if so they would generally both show live when only the ign is switched on due to the coil charge up time, i.e like daz says the green wired side is the switched negative side, under ign on - engine not running it will show it to be positive cause there is no triggered ground . i do hope its got internal polarity protection should be ok m8 ,
and no its a nice smooth cut unit , no harshness and will stop the revs completey on acceleration
hth
mark
i hope you didnt test the coils wires with them still attached to the coil ? if so they would generally both show live when only the ign is switched on due to the coil charge up time, i.e like daz says the green wired side is the switched negative side, under ign on - engine not running it will show it to be positive cause there is no triggered ground . i do hope its got internal polarity protection should be ok m8 ,
and no its a nice smooth cut unit , no harshness and will stop the revs completey on acceleration
hth
mark
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I did have it wired the wrong way around...I tested the green wire with the ignition on ans it had power so assumed that it was positive and the other was negative.
Anyway...I've wired it up correctly and its working spot on now
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