Ginge !

as i dont think im gonna know where all this stupid wiring is all gonna go back to,,,, then there is the hoses too and the fuel lines also....... im starting to regret taking this car apart pmsl

oh and i belted my elbow on the corner of the front subfame,,,,,, AND IM IN PROPER PAIN 1 HOUR LATER !!

ST Turbo

Scrap it mate and by a ford....

Ginge !

erm,,,,,, let me think about that,,,, NO

just worried i aint gonna be able to get it back together due to the lack of space to work, might get easier when i get the box in it im hoping

Chaz888

Well if your going to buy souless over complex im-pretza shmetza stuff you will get these sort of problems just get a nice ford st of some kind or go on a site for your car?
just ribbing ya dude sure somone can help just not me!

Ginge !

considering i work at a ford main dealer,,,, you tell me a car that will do EXACTLY as i need from it that ford make or even MORE then i would part with my cash as i get silly discounts on parts and no quibble warranty

ive have my shed for a few years and tbh its more than fine for me if im honest,,,,, just i aint got a clue where the wiring goes and if im honest the wiring is seeming a little brittle too

Chaz888

lol stick with it pretza is a fine animal just complex and cramped to work on as you know! thing is the loom will start to make sense it can only go a set way and plug up a set way as for crispy looms get the same problem on me v6 just gave it a check and re-wrap all wires good thank fek just decayed casing.

ST Turbo

Ginge do as above, best thing is plug a few sensors in around the place and there should be some sort of pattern forming and you should be able to work it out from there... Next time put a few fucking labels on the sensors mate, will save you time in the future lol!

You coming beckys party hinge??

Ginge !

im tempted to make a new wiring loom ( or should i say get a new ecu with premade loom pmsl) as the wires are deff stiff as fuck so aint gonna be good, remember its a old car im working with (96 impreza) so as its apart and all that,,, which is why its gonna stay apart i recon pmsl

as fr beckys, i cant as im handing in my bail in bath remember and i think a few are having beers in bath ( though numbers are dropping pmsl)

Chaz888

as fr beckys, i cant as im handing in my bail in bath remember and i think a few are having beers in bath ( though numbers are dropping pmsl)[/quote]

ho if you can get cheap ford bits can I have a pair of cougar front light clusters lol
PS good pub in bath next to hilton turks head or somthing.

Guile1

pics of the scooby please )

Ginge !

if your in london i can sort you out something but couger stuff generally is no longer serviced

as for pics,







though it is in bits at the min

Chaz888

london bit far for me trust me to buy a car thats hard to get bits for ! nice pretza hope to see her minted!

stevieturbo

What work were you doing ?

They are a doddle to work round.

vroooom ptssssh

google scoob engine bays, might get an idea for a few plugs, then from there you can work it out, i'm guessing your aircon is removed, so remembere there will be 1 or 2 plugs spare around there.

start with starter and alternator, their easy enough to find

2 plugs on the same stretch of loom which will be long for the fans......

gingerturbo

iTrader: (2)

we got a wrx in bits at work with every pic of how it got stripped (crank being reground) what ya need to know there pretty straight forward to locate the connections

stevieturbo

regrinding can be taking a risk. Ive heard of way too many regrind's failing for whatever reason

Always best to fit a new crankshaft.

gingerturbo

iTrader: (2)

not my car but the bloke who owns it came into a roundabout on full lock and starved the engine of oil so the shell wore a bit of crank not look gd, so getting it reground tut tut

stevieturbo

more than likely the bearing has spun in the rod. which means he need a new rod too.

Sounds like he's trying to repair on the cheap. He'll be repairing it again soon.

CossieRich

iTrader: (1)

Ginge,

i thought YOU were good with Imprezas mate? Hope someone can answer your question, as generally unless its cossie or a BMW this site struggles somewhat

stevieturbo

Question is a bit vague though to get a specific answer

gingerturbo

iTrader: (2)

yeh the rod did look scored and heavily glazed lol, yeh hes doing everything on the cheap, even down to letting the students build it

Ginge !

tbh its more to do with what sensor does what and general plumbing in, so far ive discovered 2 cam sensors, 1 crank sensor, power steering sensor,"other" sensors that im guessing are for the gauges in the middle and then im not sure as i aint started to put it back together again, its just it is a tight space to work in if that makes sence

also why does the ISCV have a water pipe going in and out of it ????

jameswrx

Don't worry about it, it'll all slot back into place. Once you plug a couple of bits in the loom is obviously shaped and sized to follow a path and just clip in as you go.

Only thing you've gotta remember is that some of the engine loom is tied onto the underside of the inlet manifold. Just fit all the engine loom back on the engine before it goes back in the car as there's just the main plugs to plug it into the car when back in.

It might be worth doing a simple parrallel fuel mod while the engine is out. Get a fpr and run fuel hose instead of e metal pipes under he inlet manifold. That way the rails get even parrallel fuel flow. I can dig you out some pics if you're interested.

vaughant

iTrader: (1)

So it can sense the temperature of the water in the engine,gives a more accurate response.

As for wiring,it's honestly idiot proof,it should only plug one to one.failing that,get into your service department asap and grab the autodata wiring diagram,don't panic if it's uk only,very similar under the bonnet so you can at least identify exactly what all the wiring is.

Most jap cars are very user friendly,yes it's tight in there,but they love to use nice colourful wiring like a red and green together (no use if your colourblind i suppose!!) rather than fords genius idea of black,black with an almost black blue line and black with an almost black purple line through them,dead helpful!!!

I know you think I talk shit sometimes but it would honestly have been easier as a home mechanic to have dropped the engine and subframe out in one then worked on it,there's only 3 plugs (iirc) then to reconnect and a few pipes,which again are obvious,still,it's done now.

stevieturbo

As Vaughan says, it really is idiot proof !!!

And what age of car is it ? There is only 1 crank sensor, and only 1 cam sensor.

In reality, there are only about 3-4 wiring plugs that need disconnected when removing the engine, as the engine loom will pretty much remain on the intake manifold and there are large multi connectors.

Unless he has rebuilt it properly with new crank, new rods where required, new bearings, new modine oil cooler, new pump ( or thoroughly cleaned and inspected pump ), sump throughly cleaned or replaced.

Then I really cant see the engine lasting long.

And as with many cars, water is attached to the TB which may also link to the ISCV to prevent it from freezing up in extremely cold weather.

As for what gauges some plonker has added, cant comment on that wiring. But yes, it usually is a complete and utter mess.

And there is no such thing as a power steering sensor.

And I certainly wouldnt say it is a tight space. There really is plenty of room compared to many cars.
Engine out is a 90min job assuming no siezed bolts

Engine once assembled can be back in and running in 2-3 hours, and that is being careful and taking your time.