PF plumbers - help!
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I need to replace the kitchen mixer tap as ours is knackered. Got the new tap but it comes with screw on braided hoses, but the old one has the traditional metal pipes. How can I fit it????
Right mate cut the copper tails with a pipe cutter then fit 15mm isolation valves onto each of the copper tails copper then you can screw the nut from flexy pipe onto the iso valves job done
(B&Q sell them mate)
Last edited by boothy; Nov 9, 2010 at 05:01 PM.
have you got a pik of the pipe ends which originally conected to the tap? as the ends might already have a valve on, as far as i can tell the pipes heading up in the top of the pik would be what the tap was connected to?, so you need to cut them not too short and fit an isolation valve then the flexi's to the isolation valves as boothy said
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have you got a pik of the pipe ends which originally conected to the tap? as the ends might already have a valve on, as far as i can tell the pipes heading up in the top of the pik would be what the tap was connected to?, so you need to cut them not too short and fit an isolation valve then the flexi's to the isolation valves as boothy said

Because that's the way I roll!
Will do, although I'll also cover everything in towels. DIY plumbing wouldn't be DIY pluming without a bit of main's pressure water squirting in your face!!
you might want to just loop the flexi's sometimes makes it alot easier if theres room and length to do that, up to you though everyone has their own ways of doing things, and i wouldnt cut them where the arrows are as you will have a job with a cutter there and not much pipe on the end to fit the valves, cut them higher up above the elbows and make it alot easier
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turn valves off washing machine outlets and disconnect washing machine pipes. Turn off hot/cold water supply. Turn main taps on and let drain until nothing comes out then get small bowl and turn washine machine valves open again and there will be hardly any water and no pressure ;0) wait until no water comes then then reshut valves and carry on with isolation valve fitment and flexi pipes
dan take the tap to your local plumbers merchants and tell them you want to get from the flexi to 15mm copper and they,ll sort you out with some pushshit connectors then ya just cut the 15mm copper and push the pushshit straight on, job jobbed its the easyst and best way for a d i yer
pete
pete
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dan take the tap to your local plumbers merchants and tell them you want to get from the flexi to 15mm copper and they,ll sort you out with some pushshit connectors then ya just cut the 15mm copper and push the pushshit straight on, job jobbed its the easyst and best way for a d i yer
pete
pete
Sorry for the mongy questions!
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show us a pic of the flexis.15mm male couplings would be what i would use as isolators arent flat at the ends like males are.cheaper too.basically cut both pipes,screw the couplings to the flexis,tighten then put the compression side of the couplings onto the copper pipes.you will have to cut the pipes above the top 90'c bends or it will be a pain to get them out of the sink.
Pushfits are the easier answer, but while it is all in bits I would strongly consider fitting isolation valves, so when it all goes to shit in the future it's a lot easier to isolate the supply to the tap instead of draining the whole system again.
And don't overtighten the olives, follow the instructions on the packet
And don't overtighten the olives, follow the instructions on the packet
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We're moving the kitchen into where the garage currently is, so they've only got to last for a couple of months before the whole lot is replaced. As a result the path of least resistance is favorite!
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you should have bought one of the compact pipe cutters that is just a round thing with cutting disc in it that grips as you turn, not one with a handle that you have to tighten up 
Last edited by foreigneRS; Nov 9, 2010 at 08:39 PM.
i used push fit connectors and hacksawed the pipes when connecting our kitchen water supply tot he garden tap i fitted and it's been fine. no leaks, nothing.
(runs off to touch some wood!)
(runs off to touch some wood!)
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Well I managed not to flood the house, and after a bit of swearing and acting like a contortionist the tap's all plumbed in.
I used a pair of compression fit joins, and I'm loathed to tighten them any more but it was leaking ever so slightly.
I also noticed that for some reason the toilet ball-cock thingy wasn't turning off properly and was still letting water in even when it was full. It happened after I turned the water back on, so I've wound the main stop cock back in a couple of turns which seems to have fixed the loo and the leak from the tap area appears to have stopped too.
The house does have very good water pressure, so I presume I'm doing no harm by closing the tap a little?
Seeing as the kitchen's going to be ripped out and moved, I'm not overly concerned!
I used a pair of compression fit joins, and I'm loathed to tighten them any more but it was leaking ever so slightly.
I also noticed that for some reason the toilet ball-cock thingy wasn't turning off properly and was still letting water in even when it was full. It happened after I turned the water back on, so I've wound the main stop cock back in a couple of turns which seems to have fixed the loo and the leak from the tap area appears to have stopped too.
The house does have very good water pressure, so I presume I'm doing no harm by closing the tap a little?
Seeing as the kitchen's going to be ripped out and moved, I'm not overly concerned!
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