206 xsi 53 plate:
basically car's been down on power a bit of late, but the misses never noticed
so i've been driving it for a few days as MOT was due and had a lot more miles to do, basicaly went out today and exhaust was blowing, but i knew this was down to a gasket, so i got one and went home.
went back to car and it ran like a pig, no management light or anything, just really down on power.
about 200 metres later i went to go up a hill and i had to floor it in first as second gear did nothing and had naff all power whatsoever.
got it home and need to find the problem.

management light is now on and still running like a pig, no idea what the problem is but lots of petrol smell and engine is jerking about and if you hit the throttle it has a massive induction noise and revs up very slowly indeed.


plugged cousins diagnostic tool in and got three codes up:

code 0202 : cylinder 2 injector or circuit
code 1336 : engine speed sensor or circuit - sensor power supply too low
code 1338 : engine speed sensor or circuit - engine speed too high

hopefully this would shed some light to help me out, as i don't know much about the french stuff or even proper engine management, just pikey squirt.

cheers to anyone that can help.
sean

 

5 main faults you have with these that will all stupidly enough (well it is french lol) show these faults,
1 flywheel sensor located on front of box
2 coilpack (most likely)
3 injector (second most likely they tend to stick wide open)
4 ecu fault (not so common but does happen)
5 all of the above (does happen but rare usually non genuine coilpacks spike the ecu)
if you do change the coilpack change plugs as well, there are a few variations of coilpack for these its the colour where the electrical plug goes on that tells you which type it is, i think colours are white grey or black
let us know how you go on

 

i did think about the coil pack as it had the intermitant cutting out fault on a few rare occassions.
i did think about unplugging injector 2 and then at least it won't overfuel, obviously throw up a fault no doubt about that though.
flywheel sensor is possible, however the rev counter is working sort of right even though the engine is running rough, seems to show the correct area of revs oddly enough.

coil pack is the one with a grey plug so that'll help me to source another (not even looked yet, so didn't know about the colour thing till now)

 

have they got a green top senser for the water like the 1.4s as they go every 5 min makes it play up

 

how many miles has it done?

we had a 206cc in the workshop which we had sold; had the exact same problems as you described; everything pointed to coil pack and we put 2 new ones on there

Replaced virtually everything on ignition side; it turned out to be worn hydraulic tappets! put some new ones in and hey presto, problem solved. incidentally ours had done 52k

apparently very common problem; just search many pug forums, lots of info available

 

done just over 100k, getting really good compression too, around 200psi on all cylinders.
engine code today is giving me just the injector number 2 code : 0202

 

swap injector to another cylinder and see if you get a new code

 

its exactly the same problem we had

just search the net/google for "206 hydraulic tappets"

 

Had one at work no long ago replaced coil rail and a few weeks later it came back and the injector had went. It was number 2 aswell

 

i may try that, i'm going to get a new coil pack first, even if that isn't the fault, i know it's been playing up in the past anyhow.
one injector can't really cause uneven running to the point that it doesn't rev could it?
feels like a couple of cylinders are down and yet the plugs are dry.

 

it sounds like the injecters gone down we had loads in with the same fault,
if you can try and un plug one at a time and watch the engine note change and dont forget the plug no are back to front on french cars so no1 would be by the flywheel side.
also ive had a leaking washer jet drip into an injecter itself only over night or a longish peroid,resulting in corrided and damaged injecter.

 

My mate has been getting similiar codes on his XSi and his was a coilpack problem

 

shit, didn't know they are back to front, doh!!!
cheers for the info
will check that tonight.

 

had another look at it briefly after getting home and popped camshaft covers off and followers seem to be nice and tight and pumped up nicely, don't go down easily with a push on them at the very least.
disconnected the true second injector and made no really difference, still ran like shit and no signs of overfuelling apart from a little soot as to be expected with all my trials, but dry at the very least.
fitting new coil pack tomorrow when i pick it up, not so expensive and a common fault so good to rule that out.
anymore suggestiongs welcomed
I really do appreciate them and allows me to tick the box and rule something else out before spending money.
cheers
sean

 

large induction noise and slow reving, and suddenley a blowing exhaust tells me that an exhaust box after the 'blow' has blocked up!! easy fix drop the exhauast and give it a quick run or rev you will instantly see the difference!

 

you can check the resistance on the injecters them selves i think they should be about 16/18 ohms from the top of my head,
have you got any of them spark tester the little tube that looks like a plug but lights up telling you,you've got spark try them as i still think the injecter has gone down
have you removed the coil pack and plugs and turned the engine over to c if all plugs are sparking (should really earth the coil pack out when you do this)

 

i checked spark, however it could be missed timed due to the coil pack being slow to react.
as for exhaust, all but the cat has been replaced previously, i just exhaust pasted the conical gasket as it was knackered and it didn't work too well after that, got a new one on standby, may pop off cat, but was in mint condition before hand.

 

is it 8 or 16 valve? 8valvers are prone to coil pack problems as mentioned above, 16 valvers are know to kill the catalysts and cause running problems.

if you can, check the lambda sensor readings with the diag tool. pre cat sensor should flucuate fairly quickly between 100 and 900 millivolts, the post cat lambda should be constant at approximately 500millivolts

 

this mans advice is spot on,,,,, start with the coilpack and go from there, hes spot on about colour too

 

i'll check the readings on code reader as it picks up all that info.
cat should be fine, at least it has been, only 7 bolts to pull it off though.
it is a 16 valver also.
will be getting a grey plugged coil pack and take the current one with me.

 

as said above tho, the pugs have a habit of knocking out the plugs when the coils go so best to replace as a set. think standard fit was equim plugs, but ngk doesnt seem to give any troubles

lambdas seem to be a very common fail at work at the mo tho

 

why thank you mate, i must add that i used to work for citroen for 3 years so got to see many of the problems that citroens and peugeots have and believe me there are 100's

 

also ive seen a few of these engines chip either the exhaust and inlet valve,we've had a few in like this also had one that the other bloke put an injecter in,coil pack,compression check then went for a ecu
i then got the job and it turned put to br a broken wire to injecter 3
he almost got the sack for that

 

on the coil pack i think if its got the square plug on it then its the older type,the new app modified ones have the rounded plug on

 

well i replaced coil pack and it idles a little better, but any throttle it bogs down and won't rev properly.
however, when the revs climb high enough and i lift off there is a horrible knocking noise, like valves colliding etc.
bit odd really and can't tell till i pull head off i guess, but it is causing backfiring through the inlet.
now i know if i unplugged an injector that would stop the fuel igniting and back firing, but that didn't relaly help.
anyone else think damage to valves or jumped timing perhaps?

it's a real pain with my tools being a couple of miles away.
i'm now not getting any engine management lights up and no codes, so the coil pack has solved one issue possibly.
i'm going to pop cat off as soon as i pick up more tools and it's cooled and see if that is causing issues somehow.

anymore advice welcome

 

if the injceter is stuck parsly open or stuck or weeping,then it will still allow fuel in as its still under constant pressure
try swapping over the injecters before you rip the head off
you can easily check the timing on these too

 

i'm going to pick some tools up before i do anymore and check timing as i have cam locks i've borrowed to check that, also need to get fuel rail out, bit of a pain as i didn't have what i needed at the time either.
also going to see if i can get hold of an ecu, heard that if the coil pack goes then it may be too blame, but that will be a last effort for that sort of thing.

really odd as it only had problems when i sorted exhaust sytem so it wasn't blowing anymore like it always had. seemed to have lost a bit of power and fuel consumption was up a bit, but the misses never told me about this though.

i gave it a bit of proper driving for a few days parked up then all the problems started one morning.
she did run it very low on fuel though, so maybe related to that, real pain as i only have today to sort it really and i'm full of a cold etc.

 

when its running have you checked the pressure coming out of the exhaust at all

 

seems to be plenty of flow out of the exhaust, no issues to mention there, but i will pull cat off this afternoon and see if that has collapsed and causing major back pressure.
just odd how it is backfring though inlet, that in my opinion would suggest that the valves are not sealing properly or timing has jumped.
i had a similar problem with an alfa once, that was inlet timing misaligned amongst a few other issues it had.

 

just spoke to a puggy lad and he reckons the timing may have jumped, no idea when the belt was done last either so i've picked up some tools to check that out, hopefully it'll be that and no engine damage please...

 

i'm a genious as it would appear lol! I changed coil pack and that stopped the management light popping up, but that was a temprimental issue that i had anyway.
that barely improved things though, so i went back to basics.
so i decided to check the cam timing and that's where i made a big discovery.
timing belt was rather shredded and tensioner wasn't doing its job at all, Ł70 later and a couple of hours in the pouring down rain and it's working again, seems to have some power back aswell.
so there you go, sorted and a note to anyone with a puggy 206, the bloody engine mount really gets in the way, but can be done by anyone with a basic tool kit as all my proper tools, jack and compressor are sat a couple of miles away in my garage/workshop!

cheers for the help guys
sean

 

glad you found the fault and it was only a couple of teeth out i hope?

the 16 valvers normally knacker/bend valves if the timings out

 

happy you got to the root of the problem