lexus IS200 problems,
#1
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Thread Starter
lexus IS200 problems,
Hey guys,
I know my car isnt a ford but theres some very knowledgeable people on here that hope can help me.
My IS200 hasnt moved for about 4 weeks, due to me being away with work, the battery was flat when i got back, so got my breakdown people out to jump it as i was unsure about it as never jumped it before.
Got it started, but the ECU light is now on, and the traction control (TRC OFF) is flashing,
also after jumping it wouldnt start on the key again so i presume the cold weather has knackered the battery. I took it out for a run about 4 miles and it seemed to run fine, no mis fires or bad running.
If anyone has had these probs on there Lexus or know the problems i'm experiencing then help would be very much appreciated.
Thanks in advance
Baz.
I know my car isnt a ford but theres some very knowledgeable people on here that hope can help me.
My IS200 hasnt moved for about 4 weeks, due to me being away with work, the battery was flat when i got back, so got my breakdown people out to jump it as i was unsure about it as never jumped it before.
Got it started, but the ECU light is now on, and the traction control (TRC OFF) is flashing,
also after jumping it wouldnt start on the key again so i presume the cold weather has knackered the battery. I took it out for a run about 4 miles and it seemed to run fine, no mis fires or bad running.
If anyone has had these probs on there Lexus or know the problems i'm experiencing then help would be very much appreciated.
Thanks in advance
Baz.
#3
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Disconnect battery negative for 10 minutes and then reconnect this will clear any fault codes the ECU has stored. If not it could be the cold causing problems, make sure all sensor connections are good. The ECU may have been damaged as a result of jump starting there is a right way and a wrong way to jump start.
Martin
Martin
#4
Too many posts.. I need a life!!
Thread Starter
Whats the right way and the wrong way mate?? The breakdown guy left the leads on my battery for 5-10 mins before turning the car over, was this right??
#6
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might just need to get it plugged in to a scanner and clear all codes, cars these days are funny with things like that, 307s fuck me even worse wont start no windows etc, bsi needs resetting right pain in arse
#7
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When jump starting with delicate components such as ECU'S it is possible to damage them, with a high charging rate, once the car is running normally before disconnecting the two it's good to place a load on the battery such as a heater motor etc so you don't get a power spike. Doubt it is this just one posibility, as I said previously disconnect battery first this will clear the "alive memory" then it it comes on again it must be something registering a fault.
Martin
Martin
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#8
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It's nothing to do with the charging rate, it is the sudden spike, the better jumps leads have a surge protector between the two cars, this allows a fe seconds to slowly build the current up to the full amount.
Quite right to leave on for a 5-10 mins first.
Older cars could weld themselves together when using jump leads in the days of chrome bumpers, if the bumpers were touching and the earth lead wasn't that great it would seek earth through the cars body/bumpers, heard of it happening but never seen it myself.
A 4 mile run isn't going to do a thing to a fully flat battery, even more so in a modern car, as the ecu when controlling the charge rate charges a LOT slower than the older systems.
Just put a charger on the battery, leave connected, unless your charger is very old, it will have spike protection, this protects in this instance from AC spikes, as it can happen.
In case you leave it regularly for long periods, a AGM battery would be a lot better bet for for your use, as the self discharge rate is so much lower on these, they also cope with cold a lot better, but of course cost more.
tabetha
Quite right to leave on for a 5-10 mins first.
Older cars could weld themselves together when using jump leads in the days of chrome bumpers, if the bumpers were touching and the earth lead wasn't that great it would seek earth through the cars body/bumpers, heard of it happening but never seen it myself.
A 4 mile run isn't going to do a thing to a fully flat battery, even more so in a modern car, as the ecu when controlling the charge rate charges a LOT slower than the older systems.
Just put a charger on the battery, leave connected, unless your charger is very old, it will have spike protection, this protects in this instance from AC spikes, as it can happen.
In case you leave it regularly for long periods, a AGM battery would be a lot better bet for for your use, as the self discharge rate is so much lower on these, they also cope with cold a lot better, but of course cost more.
tabetha
Last edited by tabetha; 13-01-2010 at 09:19 AM.
#9
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buzzin i had this problem just took the negative off or a few seconds now my management light has gone off and my traction control switch works again you gotta love passionford
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