I'm removing the gearbox from my 2 wheel drive Cosworth after the new clutch slipped. I suspect that something went wrong with the new rear crank oil seal because I have oil coming out of the bellhousing so I've set about removing the box myself.

Can I remove the gearbox with the propshaft still slotted into it? This would save draining the gearbox oil and refilling it again.

Do I have to remove the exhaust to get the box out?

Do I undo the bellhousing bolts before the gearbox crossmember?

Do you have to drop the antiroll bar for access? My mate did but I'm not sure it's neccessary

And finally how the bloody hell do you disconnect the clutch cable?

Any help on any of these questions would be appreciated, I've got as far as getting the car on axle stands, disconnecting the prop, removing the starter motor and the wiring and that's it

Thanks,

Paul

 

Surely somebody must know at least one of the answers lmao

 

prop out is easier, drop the exhaust off and out the way. Undo bellhousing bolts first, then box mount. Have you removed gearstick? Dropping roll bar makes life easier.

 

I appreciate prop out is easier due to access but wondered if was possible to slide it out as one unit then stand the box on end.

Shame I have to remove the exhaust, it's nicely aligned now and it's an arse to get off the hangers I thought it would be easier with it out though.

I'll undo the antiroll bar again, wasn't sure about that one.

Gearstick is unbolted, that was the first job I did because it was easy

Thanks for your help, at least I can get a little further Just need to worl out what to do with the clutch cable now.

Paul

 

no need to remove the exhaust drop cradel downundo 13mm bolts on gear stick so none of the inside has to come apart undo prop leave in the box then undo the 4 torxbolts take box out then take the bell housing off put back together in reverce should manage it in about 30 min,s

 

remove as much as possible it makes refitting easier

 

Interesting thought removing the bellhousing and maybe that's what somebody has done with mine before because the bolts are a bit chewed up but surely the bellhousing would still need to be removed before the clutch can be changed?

 

I've done a few 2wd clutches and never needed to drop the anti roll bar but exhaust does have to come off and it would be loads easier to completely remove the prop.

 

Stop fannying around and take the box off, the cable is easily taken off, even without disconnecting it from pedal first, just pull on arm, whilst pulling cable thicker part through the hole till it exposes the thinner part of the end nipple so it can be slotted into the larger hole to come out.
Measure around the prop so you know the size of the inside of the seal, get a cap from a tin of some sort, and use that to cap the end, build up with tape if too small, won't lose a drop that way.
tabetha

 

ofcourse but i find it a lot easyer to do it this way on my own on the floor

 

You're right I am fannying around but it's because I want to know the facts before I start and not f*ck something up lol. I'll start on it again tomorrow and I'll try that trick with the clutch cable, this stuff is all new to me.

I like your idea about sealing up the box, I wish I'd measured it last time it was out. I'll find something hopefully.

 

easiest way i found to take gearbox out was as follows:

1) prop out
2) undo exhaust from back of turbo (3 nuts)
3) leave anti roll bar alone!
4) gearbox mount off
5) take gearstick gaitor off and remove 2 13mm nuts to remove gearstick

Once you've done all that the box will have enough room to come over the anti roll bar.

 

to get clutch cable out, get someone to lift clutch pedal, this releases the ratchet mechanism on the pedal, whilst you pull the cable from the fork

 

Thanks for the tips Hopefully I'll get a lot further with it tonight