WRC Back ends
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#8
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May sound like a silly question - Those 4 bolts behind the Diff are whats holding it in right? As opposed to a conventional rear beam where its held from the top?
If i were to fabricate a similar design, could i use a standard 2wd diff?
Thanks too for the pics Ian, especially the line drawing
If i were to fabricate a similar design, could i use a standard 2wd diff?
Thanks too for the pics Ian, especially the line drawing
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#9
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i can't believe more people don't have these made up instead of modding the original beam - obviously it's more expensive in the beginning, but the cost would come down if enough people had done it. probably too late now, should have been done in he cossie heyday
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ag do make these dont they?
just wondering if his are a carbon copy of the wrc type or his own design along the same line and how much he charges for them!
cant see why u could use a 2wd diff (being smaller than the 9inch) and just have some adaptor plates made up??
just wondering if his are a carbon copy of the wrc type or his own design along the same line and how much he charges for them!
cant see why u could use a 2wd diff (being smaller than the 9inch) and just have some adaptor plates made up??
#21
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Shocks are easily to sort, set of spherical top mounts and just make the hubs so they take an off the shelf coilover from some other car.
Those ones for example, look just like astra mk4 front shocks, im sure they arent, but it gives an example of the sort of thing you could use if making your own hubs.
Those ones for example, look just like astra mk4 front shocks, im sure they arent, but it gives an example of the sort of thing you could use if making your own hubs.
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this is only realy any good to someone starting a build and is whats going in my p100
as for the rear struts you can make front struts from the same car fit the rear as the alloy hubs are the same f+r on group a cars and the wrc
as for the rear struts you can make front struts from the same car fit the rear as the alloy hubs are the same f+r on group a cars and the wrc
Last edited by jacko; 26-08-2008 at 10:03 PM.
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thats the thing chip
these realy need to be adapted to fit a road car but the space needed to suspend the cradle will need more spacing than origeonal bolt holes will allow
it wont realy matter with my pickup but marketing is different
these realy need to be adapted to fit a road car but the space needed to suspend the cradle will need more spacing than origeonal bolt holes will allow
it wont realy matter with my pickup but marketing is different
#29
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Even on the WRC car, they are basically a front suspension arrangement, but grafted onto the rear, the gravel front WRC hubs were used only for ease of fitment and Boreham had loads of em lying about....
The hubs are the hardest things, Andy Gallaghers solution is the best for track use i'd say, standard cossie rear bearings and drive flanges, the steering arms on the wrc car are forged and very strong, with removable pins, but there is no reason why you couldn't make them in one assembley....
On the rally car we use M18 x 1.5 aurora rose joints and each lateral link is threaded r/hand and l/hand to make it easy to adjust on the car....
The hubs are the hardest things, Andy Gallaghers solution is the best for track use i'd say, standard cossie rear bearings and drive flanges, the steering arms on the wrc car are forged and very strong, with removable pins, but there is no reason why you couldn't make them in one assembley....
On the rally car we use M18 x 1.5 aurora rose joints and each lateral link is threaded r/hand and l/hand to make it easy to adjust on the car....
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thats what i was thinking as far as the difs go but that could be specified when ordering unless you would be wanting to change diffs for different sizes
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a guy i know runns a metro 6r4 in the northern saloons and has the same hubs and a mate of mine owns a machine shop that could do the hubs
as for rose joints that is the easiest part of all
i did once see an idiot that didnt do the rose joints with counter threads and he was amazed when im pointed out his mistake
as for rose joints that is the easiest part of all
i did once see an idiot that didnt do the rose joints with counter threads and he was amazed when im pointed out his mistake
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i think you would just have to put accentric mounts in the back and put in an extra cross member in front of the one the diff mount bolts to and then its just a case of putting some captive threads in the two box sections
all of this could be locolised painting realy
all of this could be locolised painting realy
#35
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the WRC rear setup is the best you can fit in an escort/sierra, the factory WRC as per Ians set up is the ultimate for massive loadings taken by world cars at world level,
When my car went to Andy Gallacher's we had a design breif of what the car is being used for, and also to see if there could be any improvements over the factory setup for my application, and i think he came up with the goods.
what you see there is only a small part of the setup, yes it could easily be done using a 7.5" diff, but this is still only a fraction of the work needed to make this setup work.
the shell mods are pretty immense using either the factory of after market to support this setup, if not done correctly i think you would make the car even worse. (if thats possible?)
have a look through my resto in the particular section and you will see the shell mods, tall turrets are a must to get the suspension travel due to the tall hubs, then you go into the WRC hubs, i looked for ages for a non expensive way of doing them, and there was nothing suitable, the hubs you can still get new at approx £800 each built with the correct parts, Andy has also lessoned that cost with another mod to the WRC hubs, but still leaving you at £550+vat a hub.
the spherical joints are £45 each, there are 12 on the rear.
the dampers in the pics are just group a bilsteins, ok for road/track etc and are just for mockup purposes, the pukka rears are approx £2k a pair, etc etc etc
if you make a setup like this please bare in mind, some of the copy's pay no attention to the length of the links, this is the important bit, and obv aligining to the car so it at least drives straight !!
hth
Mark
When my car went to Andy Gallacher's we had a design breif of what the car is being used for, and also to see if there could be any improvements over the factory setup for my application, and i think he came up with the goods.
what you see there is only a small part of the setup, yes it could easily be done using a 7.5" diff, but this is still only a fraction of the work needed to make this setup work.
the shell mods are pretty immense using either the factory of after market to support this setup, if not done correctly i think you would make the car even worse. (if thats possible?)
have a look through my resto in the particular section and you will see the shell mods, tall turrets are a must to get the suspension travel due to the tall hubs, then you go into the WRC hubs, i looked for ages for a non expensive way of doing them, and there was nothing suitable, the hubs you can still get new at approx £800 each built with the correct parts, Andy has also lessoned that cost with another mod to the WRC hubs, but still leaving you at £550+vat a hub.
the spherical joints are £45 each, there are 12 on the rear.
the dampers in the pics are just group a bilsteins, ok for road/track etc and are just for mockup purposes, the pukka rears are approx £2k a pair, etc etc etc
if you make a setup like this please bare in mind, some of the copy's pay no attention to the length of the links, this is the important bit, and obv aligining to the car so it at least drives straight !!
hth
Mark
#36
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Surely if the WRC setup is out of your reach, the best bet (well, i expect its still far from cheap, but still) is to graft a 200SX rear end on to a Sierra?
Then you got a similar setup, fully multilink, and as long as you do it with the off the shelf aftermarket arms, its all rose jointed and has fully adjustable camber, toe, track, etc etc. 4 adjustable arms per side.
As in (for want of a clearer pic...)
![](http://media.driftworks.com/S15/Fuel1.jpg)
Then you got a similar setup, fully multilink, and as long as you do it with the off the shelf aftermarket arms, its all rose jointed and has fully adjustable camber, toe, track, etc etc. 4 adjustable arms per side.
As in (for want of a clearer pic...)
![](http://media.driftworks.com/S15/Fuel1.jpg)
![](http://media.driftworks.com/S15/Boot3.jpg)
Last edited by Stavros; 26-08-2008 at 10:35 PM.
#37
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the WRC rear setup is the best you can fit in an escort/sierra, the factory WRC as per Ians set up is the ultimate for massive loadings taken by world cars at world level,
When my car went to Andy Gallacher's we had a design breif of what the car is being used for, and also to see if there could be any improvements over the factory setup for my application, and i think he came up with the goods.
what you see there is only a small part of the setup, yes it could easily be done using a 7.5" diff, but this is still only a fraction of the work needed to make this setup work.
the shell mods are pretty immense using either the factory of after market to support this setup, if not done correctly i think you would make the car even worse. (if thats possible?)
have a look through my resto in the particular section and you will see the shell mods, tall turrets are a must to get the suspension travel due to the tall hubs, then you go into the WRC hubs, i looked for ages for a non expensive way of doing them, and there was nothing suitable, the hubs you can still get new at approx £800 each built with the correct parts, Andy has also lessoned that cost with another mod to the WRC hubs, but still leaving you at £550+vat a hub.
the spherical joints are £45 each, there are 12 on the rear.
the dampers in the pics are just group a bilsteins, ok for road/track etc and are just for mockup purposes, the pukka rears are approx £2k a pair, etc etc etc
if you make a setup like this please bare in mind, some of the copy's pay no attention to the length of the links, this is the important bit, and obv aligining to the car so it at least drives straight !!
hth
Mark
When my car went to Andy Gallacher's we had a design breif of what the car is being used for, and also to see if there could be any improvements over the factory setup for my application, and i think he came up with the goods.
what you see there is only a small part of the setup, yes it could easily be done using a 7.5" diff, but this is still only a fraction of the work needed to make this setup work.
the shell mods are pretty immense using either the factory of after market to support this setup, if not done correctly i think you would make the car even worse. (if thats possible?)
have a look through my resto in the particular section and you will see the shell mods, tall turrets are a must to get the suspension travel due to the tall hubs, then you go into the WRC hubs, i looked for ages for a non expensive way of doing them, and there was nothing suitable, the hubs you can still get new at approx £800 each built with the correct parts, Andy has also lessoned that cost with another mod to the WRC hubs, but still leaving you at £550+vat a hub.
the spherical joints are £45 each, there are 12 on the rear.
the dampers in the pics are just group a bilsteins, ok for road/track etc and are just for mockup purposes, the pukka rears are approx £2k a pair, etc etc etc
if you make a setup like this please bare in mind, some of the copy's pay no attention to the length of the links, this is the important bit, and obv aligining to the car so it at least drives straight !!
hth
Mark
are you going for proflex or reiger suspension ?
this is what the grpa/wrc cars used isnt it ?
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#39
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Pics of the turrets installed in the shell, I dont have any good ones of the fixings in the shell, but basically the are plated bosses weled into the shell at the 6 mounting points....
The dimensions on the drawing are as per the Esc WRC...I took the measurements some time ago and didn't have much time today.....
#40
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a guy i know runns a metro 6r4 in the northern saloons and has the same hubs and a mate of mine owns a machine shop that could do the hubs
as for rose joints that is the easiest part of all
i did once see an idiot that didnt do the rose joints with counter threads and he was amazed when im pointed out his mistake
as for rose joints that is the easiest part of all
i did once see an idiot that didnt do the rose joints with counter threads and he was amazed when im pointed out his mistake
i have a pal with a CNC machine shop, at my rates with the cost of the ally, the drawings, programming, making it worthwile you will need to running off 20+ and we were talking about £10k to make
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believe me i have done all the research, asked all the questions and found out all the prices !
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