New engine build (yb) running in
#1
New engine build (yb) running in
Most people will tell me to do 1000+ miles of gradual running in before i start to tickle her, now as far as i am aware the only part of my engine to actually bed in is the rings to the bore? so surely after say 60-70 miles of progressive boost the dam thing should be bedded in ready for a oil change?
Obviously no silly boost untill fuelling etc checked.
Love to hear the pro's views on this.
On my last build i covered 500 miles steady away gradully building rpm etc and i got talking to an old rally driver at croft, i said do you think i am run in now after this amount of milage?
He said is it running? i said yes.... he then said right its fucking run in lad
Suppose his point is rally teams dont cover a 1000 steadys??
Obviously no silly boost untill fuelling etc checked.
Love to hear the pro's views on this.
On my last build i covered 500 miles steady away gradully building rpm etc and i got talking to an old rally driver at croft, i said do you think i am run in now after this amount of milage?
He said is it running? i said yes.... he then said right its fucking run in lad
Suppose his point is rally teams dont cover a 1000 steadys??
Last edited by RWD Pete; 15-04-2008 at 02:35 PM. Reason: Cant spell for shit
#3
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my own way of doing it is;
20miles of giving it a decent blast ( no more than 4k but with a bit of boost, say 10psi on a T34...little less on a bigger blower).
then drop the oil and change it for some half decent oil.
a couple hundred miles of varying revs and load but obviously not labouring the engine, still not too many revs.
Change for preferred oil then thrash the tits off of it
Check for any leaks, loose bolts (especially on manifolds, alternator mounts)
if good then enjoy
if it wasn't me paying then i'd probably just give it the 20 mile blast, then go mad after that.
20miles of giving it a decent blast ( no more than 4k but with a bit of boost, say 10psi on a T34...little less on a bigger blower).
then drop the oil and change it for some half decent oil.
a couple hundred miles of varying revs and load but obviously not labouring the engine, still not too many revs.
Change for preferred oil then thrash the tits off of it
Check for any leaks, loose bolts (especially on manifolds, alternator mounts)
if good then enjoy
if it wasn't me paying then i'd probably just give it the 20 mile blast, then go mad after that.
#4
10K+ Poster!!
Im running new rings etc in at the mo and will be doing 1000 miles under 4k with practically no boost.
will be varying load on the engine as the miles clock up tho but nothing more than half throttle.
will be varying load on the engine as the miles clock up tho but nothing more than half throttle.
#5
Ha sthis been advised from your tuner?
Or you simply being cautious bud
#6
my own way of doing it is;
20miles of giving it a decent blast ( no more than 4k but with a bit of boost, say 10psi on a T34...little less on a bigger blower).
then drop the oil and change it for some half decent oil.
a couple hundred miles of varying revs and load but obviously not labouring the engine, still not too many revs.
Change for preferred oil then thrash the tits off of it
Check for any leaks, loose bolts (especially on manifolds, alternator mounts)
if good then enjoy
if it wasn't me paying then i'd probably just give it the 20 mile blast, then go mad after that.
20miles of giving it a decent blast ( no more than 4k but with a bit of boost, say 10psi on a T34...little less on a bigger blower).
then drop the oil and change it for some half decent oil.
a couple hundred miles of varying revs and load but obviously not labouring the engine, still not too many revs.
Change for preferred oil then thrash the tits off of it
Check for any leaks, loose bolts (especially on manifolds, alternator mounts)
if good then enjoy
if it wasn't me paying then i'd probably just give it the 20 mile blast, then go mad after that.
This is where i am up to now, gonna give it another 100 on 10 40 semi then get the silkolene in and set it up
#7
Too many posts.. I need a life!!
allways a hard one as most say 1000 miles just to cover there back
but if i build an engine and mapping, i will do about 20 miles on dyno and then about 100miles on road
then start mapping
(there is oil changes and check over in that too lol )
but if i build an engine and mapping, i will do about 20 miles on dyno and then about 100miles on road
then start mapping
(there is oil changes and check over in that too lol )
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#8
Get on That!
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why oh why are running practically no boost, when ford first released the cosworth do you think they told the new owners not to get the car into boost????
boost is required to bed the rings in properly END OF!
#9
Too many posts.. I need a life!!
#12
10K+ Poster!!
I doing what the engine builder told me to
worked fine when I ran it in last time.....aint short on power is it?
#14
PassionFord Post Whore!!
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I've done 650 miles on my new engine.
At 500 the oil was dropped and i used 10-40 GTX
Running under 10psi and up to 4500rpm.
But i have driven the car which i was told to do, they said constant speeds and pottering around was no good, so I'm fortunate to live near the lake district so I've clocks most of the miles around their putting load on the engine and i can feel it's loser now so couple of hundred more and it's off for a set-up.
At 500 the oil was dropped and i used 10-40 GTX
Running under 10psi and up to 4500rpm.
But i have driven the car which i was told to do, they said constant speeds and pottering around was no good, so I'm fortunate to live near the lake district so I've clocks most of the miles around their putting load on the engine and i can feel it's loser now so couple of hundred more and it's off for a set-up.
#15
Seems there's two ways ppl commonly use, im going for 10 psi under 4000 rpm for a 100 or so miles then gradual build up to rather large boost
Oh and a gallon of silkolene
Oh and a gallon of silkolene
#17
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in this order to run in motor for me ...... mineral oil first cheap shitty 5 quid stuff from asda,s lmao run for 500mls gradually bringing boost up to 10-15psi after first 250miles
drop shite oil out and change oil filter . then add fully synthetic (i use silkolene) and run up to 1000 miles @15psi and three quarter throttle only occasional full throttle spurts
after that its play time lmao, oh and always worth examining oil betweeen the oil changes to check for any problems (swarfe ,filings etc) i also sift a clean magnet in the oil to see how much crap is in it this is why cheap gacky oil is used in first place !!!
as stated earlier boost is needed during running in otherwise you will just glaze the bores instead of your new rings sealing properly
and i do all my engines in this way and all good for me
drop shite oil out and change oil filter . then add fully synthetic (i use silkolene) and run up to 1000 miles @15psi and three quarter throttle only occasional full throttle spurts
after that its play time lmao, oh and always worth examining oil betweeen the oil changes to check for any problems (swarfe ,filings etc) i also sift a clean magnet in the oil to see how much crap is in it this is why cheap gacky oil is used in first place !!!
as stated earlier boost is needed during running in otherwise you will just glaze the bores instead of your new rings sealing properly
and i do all my engines in this way and all good for me
#18
20K+ Super Poster.
boost is required to bed the rings in properly!!
Does that mean no car can be correctly run in without a turbo ?
If you rub one piece of metal against another, with only a tiny oil film between them wear will occur, do it slow enough and it is controlled, do it too easy and the oil film will prevent a decent uniform surface occuring between the two surfaces, bedding in is only taking off any high spots.
I am at full throttle by 1000 miles, as seem too many driven like miss daisy and now drink oil due to bore glaze.
I would be at 4000rpm by 250 miles but on a light load, oil changes at every 500, but DECENT mineral until at least 2000 hard miles.
tabetha
Does that mean no car can be correctly run in without a turbo ?
If you rub one piece of metal against another, with only a tiny oil film between them wear will occur, do it slow enough and it is controlled, do it too easy and the oil film will prevent a decent uniform surface occuring between the two surfaces, bedding in is only taking off any high spots.
I am at full throttle by 1000 miles, as seem too many driven like miss daisy and now drink oil due to bore glaze.
I would be at 4000rpm by 250 miles but on a light load, oil changes at every 500, but DECENT mineral until at least 2000 hard miles.
tabetha
#19
Testing the future
I've done 650 miles on my new engine.
At 500 the oil was dropped and i used 10-40 GTX
Running under 10psi and up to 4500rpm.
But i have driven the car which i was told to do, they said constant speeds and pottering around was no good, so I'm fortunate to live near the lake district so I've clocks most of the miles around their putting load on the engine and i can feel it's loser now so couple of hundred more and it's off for a set-up.
At 500 the oil was dropped and i used 10-40 GTX
Running under 10psi and up to 4500rpm.
But i have driven the car which i was told to do, they said constant speeds and pottering around was no good, so I'm fortunate to live near the lake district so I've clocks most of the miles around their putting load on the engine and i can feel it's loser now so couple of hundred more and it's off for a set-up.
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