L33 BYT

So as some of you know I have my first cossie, It has some issues which I bought in the knowledge of it needing an impending rebuild.

Any hows, head is spot on it has recently been rebuilt, however when the head was put on its killed the bottom end.

Its not really a build I would want to do my self, have done in the past with my old RST's and assisted with rebuilding a mates cossie. But I I'd rather spend that bit more to have something which is going to last and be able to take the pain.

So I'm getting a bit of bottom end rattle and smoke on overrun.

I need to get the bottom end rebuilt, Questions are based on getting a reliable YB (Ha ha ha I hear you say)

-Pistons what would be the best to go for? Forged? Cast? Make?
If I can still keep standard bore is there any need to go over size?

-Gaskets, Seen many a discussion on brand. What do you guys use?

-Shells, Genuine Cosworth or another brand?

-Oil Pump, again Genuine Cosworth or another brand?

-Other things I should possibly get done at the time of rebuild?


Its got greens, And whilst mum says I should eat my greens I believe they are running on an "Off the shelf chip" Could this be a contribution to the nakered bottom end. Oil is relativly clean however does smell very much of fuel.

pollocks

if your not planning on doing the build yourself why not ring around a few of the known to be good engine builders like reyland,scs,mad etc and see what they would recomend for you and your purpose of use

would save a bit of hassle listening to the usual internet drivel

L33 BYT

Defiantly. Couldnt agree more, However I know some very good people come on here and always find a range of opinions is worth listening too

bud-weis

I'd stick to a standard rebuild using all genuine parts.....possibly have the pistons pocketed in case of future upgrades.

costina

iTrader: (1)

Wise words

paul

old nick

if it's smoking on the overrun it's a guide problem,a new set of seals might cure,or if the head as just been overhualed a seal might have slipped?

tabetha

Smoke on the overun particularly after a big bootful is more likely rings, when guides it is a very small amount.
The std pistons, ie MAHLE are FORGED, and a very good piston, you cannot use cast, unless you want them to melt, defo have the pistons pocketed, not expensive, loads of bog std cossie will have valve piston contact on unskimmed heads let alone skimmed ones, it generally just marks the pistons rather than bending valves etc.
As for shells go either std cossie one or VANDERVEL or GLACIER CLEVITTE.
I would use a genuine oil pump, head gasket depends on how much power you want IMO.
I always use a fibrous group a wherever possible, though escy one has better water way support, but if block and head flat group a will be fine.
Use COMETIC gaskets elsewhere, as re useable and VERY good.
Whilst apart get complete balance, including end to end on rods, lighten flywheel, use a new oil pump drive hex as well.
Use ARP fasteners where you can.
tabetha

L33 BYT

Tabetha, just the reply I was looking for. Many thanks.

tabetha

I'm only down the road from you if you need a hand shout, and I'll be over no probs.
You could have the head de shrouded at the same time makes a massive difference, for little money £275 tops.
tabetha
ps PM sent

L33 BYT

Im not really going to know what pistons (size) I need until some one examines the block really am I.
Tab Could you explain the shrouding as little please?>

RWD Pete

Standard shells standard oil pump, im using some cosworth pistons which seem to be very good quality as expected. As for gaskets im gonna find a link to a fella local to me that basically supplies cometic style gaskets at a fraction of the cost. Top quality stuff. Altho i am using cometic head gasket.

RWD Pete

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/High-Performan...QQcmdZViewItem

Turbo Zetec

iTrader: (1)

p mason engineering in maldon, essex do valve cutouts for £45 (a set) + vat. derek would be your man to supply the gaskets, just make sure everything is flat if using a MLS gasket.