Focus RS starting issue
#1
PassionFord Post Whore!!
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Focus RS starting issue
its really starting to f**k me off now, dunno whether its an AE/AF (Focus RS map) thing but its getting on my nerves.
never used to happen in the first few weeks of owning the car (january) but now it happens pretty much everytime. this morning i must have tried to start it 3-4 times
It always starts eventually, but it can be annoying, and also a little embarrassing considering the car is only 4 1/2 years old.
The car has a bluefin, is on mostly original parts, but has done 94k. are there any suggestions, other than the map, that could fix the poor cold starting.
cheers guys
never used to happen in the first few weeks of owning the car (january) but now it happens pretty much everytime. this morning i must have tried to start it 3-4 times
It always starts eventually, but it can be annoying, and also a little embarrassing considering the car is only 4 1/2 years old.
The car has a bluefin, is on mostly original parts, but has done 94k. are there any suggestions, other than the map, that could fix the poor cold starting.
cheers guys
Last edited by gingeRS; 12-03-2008 at 08:58 AM.
#2
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Mine does that from time to time, very rarely tho, it hates cold mornings (but dont we all)
You checked all the little things? plugs etc?
If you need it looked at Im sure Matt will help you out
You checked all the little things? plugs etc?
If you need it looked at Im sure Matt will help you out
#3
PassionFord Post Whore!!
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will be replacing the plugs over the weekend, just wondering if there are any other common causes of this, should i stick some new leads on it too while i'm at it?
#6
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it has the standard recirc valve as far as i know. theres never any issues when started, so wouldnt have thought it would be the fuel pump.
though i may change the filter as part of the next service
though i may change the filter as part of the next service
#7
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somebody on the ffoc had this but not exactly like yours. his was coughing and spluttering to start rather than having 3/4 attempts to start. All the possible issues were:
PCV pipes
PCM/PATS interfering with startup
Idle speed too low/ECU map not properly calibrated
PCV pipes
PCM/PATS interfering with startup
Idle speed too low/ECU map not properly calibrated
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#8
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what are PCV PCM and and PATS??
#9
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mine was starting then cutting out after a while it was doing all sorts of strange tricks, in the end it was the idle control valve, i just replaced it as its a bit of a wanker to change and was only about £50 ish from ford
#10
hi ginge, i think i may have a spare set of plugs and leads in the garage if you want to try them out? let me know and ill have a dig around to see what i can find
bassboy
bassboy
#11
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PCV: positive crankcase ventilation. Vents all atmospheric pressure out of the crankcase. The pipework is what's likely to be the issue if it is this as a split pipe causes all sorts of hunting/erratic idle but not necessarily crap starting. Look aroudn the inlet manifold for these pipes (I dont exactly where they are lol).
The PATS is the immobilizer system. The PCM is part of the ECU and is what is used to communicate with the ECU and other sensors. I've heard of where sometimes this isnt working properly and tries to arm itself when you are trying to start the car. The little light on top of the clock indicates PATS is active. Look for it if its tries to come on when starting.
This is the most likely cause: the ECU map being slightly out. This could be anything from a low idle speed to not realizing the car is cold and not feeding enough fuel/ providing a choke to the engine to start it. Usually a snap on scanner would be able to do a self diagnostic and possibly solve this issue or failing that an ECU reflash or even a ECU reset. Disconnect the battery for about an hour then reconnect. When you switch ignition on the idals should do some funny stuff then settle down. start it and leave it idling about 5 mins then take it for a drive at varying speeds to recalibrate the ECU airflow sensors and for the ECU to re-learn how to fuel.
The PATS is the immobilizer system. The PCM is part of the ECU and is what is used to communicate with the ECU and other sensors. I've heard of where sometimes this isnt working properly and tries to arm itself when you are trying to start the car. The little light on top of the clock indicates PATS is active. Look for it if its tries to come on when starting.
This is the most likely cause: the ECU map being slightly out. This could be anything from a low idle speed to not realizing the car is cold and not feeding enough fuel/ providing a choke to the engine to start it. Usually a snap on scanner would be able to do a self diagnostic and possibly solve this issue or failing that an ECU reflash or even a ECU reset. Disconnect the battery for about an hour then reconnect. When you switch ignition on the idals should do some funny stuff then settle down. start it and leave it idling about 5 mins then take it for a drive at varying speeds to recalibrate the ECU airflow sensors and for the ECU to re-learn how to fuel.
#12
PassionFord Post Whore!!
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This is the most likely cause: the ECU map being slightly out. This could be anything from a low idle speed to not realizing the car is cold and not feeding enough fuel/ providing a choke to the engine to start it. Usually a snap on scanner would be able to do a self diagnostic and possibly solve this issue or failing that an ECU reflash or even a ECU reset. Disconnect the battery for about an hour then reconnect. When you switch ignition on the idals should do some funny stuff then settle down. start it and leave it idling about 5 mins then take it for a drive at varying speeds to recalibrate the ECU airflow sensors and for the ECU to re-learn how to fuel.
have new leads and plugs and will try this ECU reset at the weekend
:thumbsup:
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