YB Engine Problem - With Both Compression Results - UPDATE
#1
YB Engine Problem - With Both Compression Results - UPDATE
Right quick story.
Engine has been sat unrun for about 2-3 months over crimbo. (Engine ran faultless before going away for christmas)
I decided to do a compression test just out of interest.
and found that Number 4 has 7bar of pressure, 5 bar below all the other 3.
I've done a wet compression test, and this didnt change the result so i think thats rules out a stuck piston ring.
After speak to diva, he said he has had it before where a tappet has become solid and doesnt allow the valve to shut properly. COuld this be the case. I've tried putting a feeling gauge under the cam/tappet area and alot of them i cant feed the gauge in (all 4 on the number 4) some i can move up and down slightly with my fingers but other i cant. (obviously i move the cams/belt round so the lobes are at dwell.
Could this have bent or chipped my valve?
Any other test to do or suggestions before i take the head off
Engine has been sat unrun for about 2-3 months over crimbo. (Engine ran faultless before going away for christmas)
I decided to do a compression test just out of interest.
and found that Number 4 has 7bar of pressure, 5 bar below all the other 3.
I've done a wet compression test, and this didnt change the result so i think thats rules out a stuck piston ring.
After speak to diva, he said he has had it before where a tappet has become solid and doesnt allow the valve to shut properly. COuld this be the case. I've tried putting a feeling gauge under the cam/tappet area and alot of them i cant feed the gauge in (all 4 on the number 4) some i can move up and down slightly with my fingers but other i cant. (obviously i move the cams/belt round so the lobes are at dwell.
Could this have bent or chipped my valve?
Any other test to do or suggestions before i take the head off
#3
Re: YB Engine Problem
Originally Posted by Ryan
Right quick story.
Engine has been sat unrun for about 2-3 months over crimbo. (Engine ran faultless before going away for christmas)
I decided to do a compression test just out of interest.
and found that Number 4 has 7bar of pressure, 5 bar below all the other 3.
I've done a wet compression test, and this didnt change the result so i think thats rules out a stuck piston ring.
After speak to diva, he said he has had it before where a tappet has become solid and doesnt allow the valve to shut properly. COuld this be the case. I've tried putting a feeling gauge under the cam/tappet area and alot of them i cant feed the gauge in (all 4 on the number 4) some i can move up and down slightly with my fingers but other i cant. (obviously i move the cams/belt round so the lobes are at dwell.
Could this have bent or chipped my valve?
Any other test to do or suggestions before i take the head off
Engine has been sat unrun for about 2-3 months over crimbo. (Engine ran faultless before going away for christmas)
I decided to do a compression test just out of interest.
and found that Number 4 has 7bar of pressure, 5 bar below all the other 3.
I've done a wet compression test, and this didnt change the result so i think thats rules out a stuck piston ring.
After speak to diva, he said he has had it before where a tappet has become solid and doesnt allow the valve to shut properly. COuld this be the case. I've tried putting a feeling gauge under the cam/tappet area and alot of them i cant feed the gauge in (all 4 on the number 4) some i can move up and down slightly with my fingers but other i cant. (obviously i move the cams/belt round so the lobes are at dwell.
Could this have bent or chipped my valve?
Any other test to do or suggestions before i take the head off
Edited to say..Beaten to it by a few seconds
#5
rocker cover is already off and so is inlet as these were already being changed at the time.
If that makes life easier, or does it make it impossilbe to do a leak down with these off?
If that makes life easier, or does it make it impossilbe to do a leak down with these off?
#6
Originally Posted by Ryan
rocker cover is already off and so is inlet as these were already being changed at the time.
If that makes life easier, or does it make it impossilbe to do a leak down with these off?
If that makes life easier, or does it make it impossilbe to do a leak down with these off?
#7
Borg Warner EFR Equipped!
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 5,810
Likes: 2
From: In the unit, building a 450bhp Time Attack Focus!
Leak down test is basically putting a threaded extension (bit like your compression tester) into the spark plug hole and then pressuring the cylinder with compressed air from your handy household compressor
(Not sure if you have access to an airline or not)
The leakdown test will basically show how much of a measured pressure is lost.
You can listen to where the air is escaping by listening either at the inlet or at the exhaust tailpipe - or through the oil filler cap if you have serious issues
(Not sure if you have access to an airline or not)
The leakdown test will basically show how much of a measured pressure is lost.
You can listen to where the air is escaping by listening either at the inlet or at the exhaust tailpipe - or through the oil filler cap if you have serious issues
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#11
what will this prove mark? i.e above cranking it normally, i.e obviously valves wont open, but if there not shutting properly in the 1st place its not changing anything? or you mean it will illiminate the HG?
sorry to sounds like a tit
sorry to sounds like a tit
#12
Originally Posted by Ryan
what will this prove mark? i.e above cranking it normally, i.e obviously valves wont open, but if there not shutting properly in the 1st place its not changing anything? or you mean it will illiminate the HG?
sorry to sounds like a tit
sorry to sounds like a tit
although the readings will be low, as to build compression you need to get air into the cylinders, without the cams the valves should stay shut, so on a good engine the figure will be low, but equal.
a leak doen is the easiest way tbh, but if you havent got one !
#13
Ryan
I bet now you are cursing yourself now for doing a comp test for no reason mate. If nothing was wrong the last time you switched it off then how could anything major happen?
I bet now you are cursing yourself now for doing a comp test for no reason mate. If nothing was wrong the last time you switched it off then how could anything major happen?
#18
Originally Posted by Stu @ M Developments
Originally Posted by Will @ M Developments
your handy household compressor
Will you should be here by now, the film starts in 26mins and we need to que for ice cream.
What ya gone to see mate?
Sure everything will be fine Ryan, stop worrying!
#19
right just done what mark suggested and now i'm even more worried
Measured in BAR
1 = 7.8
2 = 6.5
3 = 4.0
4 = 3.0
here's the weird thing, No 3 is very low and when i did the comp test normally, No 3 was the highest reading
Here are the normal comp test readings:
1 = 12.0
2 = 11.5
3 = 12.5
4 = 7.5
Measured in BAR
1 = 7.8
2 = 6.5
3 = 4.0
4 = 3.0
here's the weird thing, No 3 is very low and when i did the comp test normally, No 3 was the highest reading
Here are the normal comp test readings:
1 = 12.0
2 = 11.5
3 = 12.5
4 = 7.5
#23
Dont get to disheartend until its checked by an expert Ryan.
These tests are quite sensitive to the way in which they are carried out and if this is the first time you have done them there is no telling if you are doing them 100% correctly.
These tests are quite sensitive to the way in which they are carried out and if this is the first time you have done them there is no telling if you are doing them 100% correctly.
#24
dont know euan, pretty sure im doing it right.
im loosing the will to live with this fucking 3dr, nothing is ever simple with it, it was easier building my old one, think its trying to tell me something
im loosing the will to live with this fucking 3dr, nothing is ever simple with it, it was easier building my old one, think its trying to tell me something
#29
a stone cold engine will give unusual results, the amount of oil in the lifters & how the engine internals expand with heat will affect the results.
get it running then check again
get it running then check again
#31
What make of gauge are you useing ? is the battery full charged up when doing the test ?
Also got to ask with the cams out where does the air come from to be compressed Ie no inlet cam to open the valve ?
Also got to ask with the cams out where does the air come from to be compressed Ie no inlet cam to open the valve ?
#34
Originally Posted by Ryan
battery was fully charged.
think the gauge is a halford/motor factors item, cant remember the name off hand.
think the gauge is a halford/motor factors item, cant remember the name off hand.
Would try another gauge if i was you
#35
yeah thats what i think im going to do tommorrow.
jsut to be on the safe side.
I've got a grpA head gasket and bolts coming tomorrow, but its obviously the last thing i want to be doing, but its not the end of the world
fucking feels like it though
jsut to be on the safe side.
I've got a grpA head gasket and bolts coming tomorrow, but its obviously the last thing i want to be doing, but its not the end of the world
fucking feels like it though
#38
Originally Posted by Ryan
right just done what mark suggested and now i'm even more worried
Measured in BAR
1 = 7.8
2 = 6.5
3 = 4.0
4 = 3.0
here's the weird thing, No 3 is very low and when i did the comp test normally, No 3 was the highest reading
Here are the normal comp test readings:
1 = 12.0
2 = 11.5
3 = 12.5
4 = 7.5
Measured in BAR
1 = 7.8
2 = 6.5
3 = 4.0
4 = 3.0
here's the weird thing, No 3 is very low and when i did the comp test normally, No 3 was the highest reading
Here are the normal comp test readings:
1 = 12.0
2 = 11.5
3 = 12.5
4 = 7.5
Try that test again, I reckon number 1 will be lower now