firstly how tight do you do the input flange nut that clamps the bearing?(or whatever you want to call it) lock shafts up anf torque?

and also how do you guys run your engines in ie oil grade and changes, grind on the big ends and polished mains new rings. i normally just use chap oil for the first few hunderd miles and do about 800 miles but with this costing an abnormal amount id rather hear different views! cheers!

 

not sure what part of the diff your talking about??



As for running in a engine,

Heres a cut and paste of what i put on the other thread.

 

fook me - i couldnt be arsed with all the fooking around of that shit !

just use good quality engine oil (mineral) get the car running and up to temp - make sure everthing works, then change the oil and filter.

again good quality min oil - get on the road and dirve it to make sure nothing comes loose, no leaks and give it a bit of boost for 100 miles, change the oil and filter, again good min oil and let it have it.

if it breaks youve dont something wrong or you have used a substandard part - simple as.

 

cheers. im talking about where the front prop bolts too not sure of the correct name for it. 15/40 to run in then

 

Mineral Oil and lots of load is the key to getting good sealing...

Just avoid high revs and dump the oil at 1000miles - swap to fully syth and fit a new filter - happy days

 

cheers what grade oil do u use then? what grade mineral oil

 

15w/40 is the only oil i ever put in cosworths

 

Thats upto you.


but their isn't much to do in my list, and is worth it even on a 1k engine.

 

Each to their own - but when i was at RC we regularly used to finish a car on a Friday afternoon, map it on a Friday night and have it at a dyno day on a Saturday doing 500+bhp ATW on running in oil

Those engines were great for well over 40,000 miles at that power

 

ive been building engines forlonger than i care to remember now, and the worst units were th eones that people fooked about with for ages when 'running in'

if you have built it right, with the right parts then it takes no time at all to run in, all there is to bed in is the rings and camshafts and they do not take over 1000 miles to do this, we are talking less than hours in run time

 

two very succesfull business friends of mine in 1994 went to the local honda dealers to buy a brace of new 900 fireblades,placed the oders one saturday and paid in full for two beasts,

now they collected them from the dealer a few weeks later one saturday,on to the motorway and my good mate is travelling south at 65mph,8 miles from the dealer,running in as told,but,the other business partner has been held up getting on the motorway slightly,when he catches his partner up he is flat in 6th at about 175mph!!!

so partner A drops his blade 3 gears and is soon in hot pursuit at 175mph as well,8-10 miles running in, fook it!!thats enough.

both bikes went on to 20k miles with zero faults before they were traded in,one for a brand new 2001 spec R1 that got run in at 145 mph on the back wheel for 8 miles down the M6!!!!.

run them in as your going to treat them.

i remember in 1998 running my 748sp in on the limiter flat out up hartside passing two superbike ledgends who are both now dead,with everything scraping,got a mention in the mag that month as " knees down tim!" good times.

rip ronnie and gus,life will never be the same with out you,especially on the island in june boys.

 

after i build and fit my enigne i leave it running while i wash my hands then thats it ready for a good thrashing

 

After they have been dynoed surely

 

i still dont get how an engine is dynod / mapped before the running process???

 

That normally is the running in procedure.


I know of a certain F1 team (not Honda who i used to work for i might add) who used to flick Vim scouring powder into the inlet trumpets to aid the running in process - you could actually hear the engine note change

 

 

 

Because if on an engine dyno, there is a running in programme used prior to mapping taking place, which loads the engine etc.

 

some good replys! what about the front diff then?

 

why?

 

As they are a 6mm allen key, you can only tighten so far.

so do it by feel, with abit of lock tight.

 

impact gun if you mean the main pinion nut

 

yeah meant the main pinion nut cheers. it clamps the bearing tho just thought there would be a torque setting so not to over tighten it but your the man in the know so il just do that!

 

there will be special tools for locking it up and torquing but thats all i ever do

 

brilliant. as long as it stil spins eh!

 

Oh drive pinion nut,


minimum of 120nm.

 

cheers