Originally Posted by Fiecos Dan
not sure what part of the diff your talking about??
As for running in a engine,
Heres a cut and paste of what i put on the other thread.
Originally Posted by Fiecos Dan
After years of different systems, this is what i find runs a engine in best.
- Using standard 15-40 engine oil for 1000 miles,
- 1st 30 minutes between 2500-3000 rpm, making sure it dont overheat, whilst at different times, checking for leaks and odd behavior
- Always warm up gently, not idleing. and fueling to be 14.2-15.0:1 whilst running in @ idle and part throttle
- 0-50 miles, easy upto 3000rpm, changing the loads. no more than 25% throttle,
- Change oil.
- 50-200 miles, as above but to 3500rpm
- 200-300miles, 50% throttle, 4000 rpm, no boost.
- 300-400miles, as above but with boost
- 400-500miles, 50% throttle, 5000 rpm.
- oil change,
- 500-1000miles, full throttle, low boost setting, full RPM.
- 1000 + Full boost.
- Oil and filter change, semi if CVH, fully 10/50 if Cossie.
- Check all nuts and bolts since insulation
Job done
The above way, has given me best results on CVH's and YB's, going by compressions, leak down test's, and longtivity of the whole engine.
i've tried 1000,500 etc ect of ploding around (like most places say) and rings never bed in correctly.
fook me - i couldnt be arsed with all the fooking around of that shit !
just use good quality engine oil (mineral) get the car running and up to temp - make sure everthing works, then change the oil and filter.
again good quality min oil - get on the road and dirve it to make sure nothing comes loose, no leaks and give it a bit of boost for 100 miles, change the oil and filter, again good min oil and let it have it.
if it breaks youve dont something wrong or you have used a substandard part - simple as.