ANYONE INTO MOUNTAIN BIKING
10-01-2008, 10:06 PM
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ANYONE INTO MOUNTAIN BIKING
NEED GOOD LIGHTS FOR NIGHT TIME RIDING IN FORESTS LOOKIN TO SPEND £100 NOT SURE WHICH TO GO FOR ON THE NET THERE IS SO MANY TO CHOSE FROM ANY IDEAS 
10-01-2008, 10:25 PM
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10-01-2008, 10:56 PM
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cool just started gettin in to it got a bike through a cycle to work scheme got a nice bike out of it too and wanna use it in anger lol 
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12-01-2008, 09:09 AM
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i have cat eye ABS-20 10w bulbs one spot one flood amazing amount of light put out even when downhilling great battery life and i picked them up for around the £100 mark 2 stick batterys that are easily taped to the frame out of the way 
great lights
heres a pic
night riddings ace though brings a whole new look on it all and makes the experience a whole new ball game makes you have to react quicker to stuff nad the likes
great lights heres a pic
night riddings ace though brings a whole new look on it all and makes the experience a whole new ball game makes you have to react quicker to stuff nad the likes
12-01-2008, 11:05 AM
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Originally Posted by pollocks
i have cat eye ABS-20 10w bulbs one spot one flood amazing amount of light put out even when downhilling great battery life and i picked them up for around the £100 mark 2 stick batterys that are easily taped to the frame out of the way great lights
heres a pic
night riddings ace though brings a whole new look on it all and makes the experience a whole new ball game makes you have to react quicker to stuff nad the likes
great lights heres a pic
night riddings ace though brings a whole new look on it all and makes the experience a whole new ball game makes you have to react quicker to stuff nad the likes
12-01-2008, 11:39 AM
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My friend is using Ayups - V good for the cash and full 5+ hour burn time. But they are missing a switch which will be coming in the next series, i would probably buy these just now.
Lupine - why bother riding at night! lol
Neils light and motion was very good when I borrowed it for the puffer 24h, just glad the bulb did not go on me!!!!!! ching ching
Lupine - why bother riding at night! lol
Neils light and motion was very good when I borrowed it for the puffer 24h, just glad the bulb did not go on me!!!!!! ching ching
12-01-2008, 11:45 AM
#12
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while we on the subject, ive got a normal mountain bike(Raleigh max to be exact) and the rear wheel has slight left to right movement, is that the bearing on the way out? if it goes what will happen?
12-01-2008, 12:31 PM
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just dont tighten it right up! Boxxer tell him how as i am not a bike mech lol I just did my commuter up till play was lost but no extra feel of drag on the wheel rotation/bearings as it did not want to wear them out fast with pressure on them. Cant beat my 90 spec giant chicago with slicks lol! well actually you can as the brakes are so bad i have hit the back of 2 cars so far in 3 months, all my own fault. Woman in the XKR never even realised!
well actually you can as the brakes are so bad i have hit the back of 2 cars so far in 3 months, all my own fault. Woman in the XKR never even realised!
12-01-2008, 12:42 PM
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Originally Posted by boXXer
just tighten the cones up on the axle bud. Wont be sealed bearing so should sort it out.
13-01-2008, 08:23 AM
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GTI:
First of all, remove the wheel.
The non-drive (left if you were sat on the bike) end of the axle will have two visible nuts (cone and locknut).
You need to slacken the outer one by holding the inner one still with a suitably thin spanner.
Now tighten the inner one just enough to remove the play.
Hold the inner one still and tighten the outer against it - because the inner nut only needs a tiny nip the locknut is needed to stop the cone becoming loose.
As boXXer says, they only need a tiny bit usually - too tight is BAD for the bearings... When you turn the axle by hand you shouldn't be able to feel any lumpiness at all - if you can then it's too tight.
HTH
Neil.
First of all, remove the wheel.
The non-drive (left if you were sat on the bike) end of the axle will have two visible nuts (cone and locknut).
You need to slacken the outer one by holding the inner one still with a suitably thin spanner.
Now tighten the inner one just enough to remove the play.
Hold the inner one still and tighten the outer against it - because the inner nut only needs a tiny nip the locknut is needed to stop the cone becoming loose.
As boXXer says, they only need a tiny bit usually - too tight is BAD for the bearings... When you turn the axle by hand you shouldn't be able to feel any lumpiness at all - if you can then it's too tight.
HTH
Neil.
13-01-2008, 10:52 AM
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Has anyone used the Hope HID lights? I want to know how good they are before commiting to 300 notes worth of lights! Are they worth the money over a good £200 set of halogen or LED lights?
13-01-2008, 11:47 AM
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Originally Posted by Neil S
GTI:
First of all, remove the wheel.
The non-drive (left if you were sat on the bike) end of the axle will have two visible nuts (cone and locknut).
You need to slacken the outer one by holding the inner one still with a suitably thin spanner.
Now tighten the inner one just enough to remove the play.
Hold the inner one still and tighten the outer against it - because the inner nut only needs a tiny nip the locknut is needed to stop the cone becoming loose.
As boXXer says, they only need a tiny bit usually - too tight is BAD for the bearings... When you turn the axle by hand you shouldn't be able to feel any lumpiness at all - if you can then it's too tight.
HTH
Neil.
First of all, remove the wheel.
The non-drive (left if you were sat on the bike) end of the axle will have two visible nuts (cone and locknut).
You need to slacken the outer one by holding the inner one still with a suitably thin spanner.
Now tighten the inner one just enough to remove the play.
Hold the inner one still and tighten the outer against it - because the inner nut only needs a tiny nip the locknut is needed to stop the cone becoming loose.
As boXXer says, they only need a tiny bit usually - too tight is BAD for the bearings... When you turn the axle by hand you shouldn't be able to feel any lumpiness at all - if you can then it's too tight.
HTH
Neil.
On the drive side, clamp the 17mm outer lock-nut in a vice, then on the opposite side, tighten the 17mm nut with a spanner. This way, you dont need cone spanners, and the outer nut will turn the cone anyway, just dont do it too much, or you will be undoing it all again.
13-01-2008, 11:48 AM
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Originally Posted by DazC
Has anyone used the Hope HID lights? I want to know how good they are before commiting to 300 notes worth of lights! Are they worth the money over a good £200 set of halogen or LED lights?
13-01-2008, 12:58 PM
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Originally Posted by boXXer
Originally Posted by DazC
Has anyone used the Hope HID lights? I want to know how good they are before commiting to 300 notes worth of lights! Are they worth the money over a good £200 set of halogen or LED lights?
13-01-2008, 01:52 PM
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Funny this, I just ordered a Carerra Titan mountain bike though my cycle to work scheme for £540 and was looking for lights to get for it (road use naturally)
Really looking forward to getting it and getting back in shape again.
Really looking forward to getting it and getting back in shape again.
13-01-2008, 03:11 PM
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Originally Posted by DazC
Originally Posted by boXXer
Originally Posted by DazC
Has anyone used the Hope HID lights? I want to know how good they are before commiting to 300 notes worth of lights! Are they worth the money over a good £200 set of halogen or LED lights?
I can get you off-the-shelf wheels, or hand build you some, depending on price/spec.
13-01-2008, 03:27 PM
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I'm thinking something along the lines of XTR non disc hubs with some kind of Mavic tubless rims and tyres (for use with V brakes) and a 9 speed XTR 11-32 cassette. Not thought about the spokes though. Looking for something around £200 a wheel excluding the cassette.
The vast majority of the bike is 2007 XTR stuff apart from the hubs which are 10 year old XT so want to upgrade them. The frame is just as old but that is staying for now.
The vast majority of the bike is 2007 XTR stuff apart from the hubs which are 10 year old XT so want to upgrade them. The frame is just as old but that is staying for now.
13-01-2008, 04:47 PM
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Originally Posted by boXXer
well, if you want them done, i'll get ya a price. Dont think non-disc XTR hubs are available anymore.
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