4x4 sump removal
28-10-2007, 11:57 AM
#2
Team HOTHOT!
Easy.
Jack car up at front. Support on axle stands under the ARB mounts.
Remove road wheels
Remove front drive shafts (you may have to remove the front diff plate if the circlip is still holding the offside shaft in)
Unbolt engine mount top nuts - 1 per side/mount
Support engine using trolly jack under sump with piece of wood to spead the load
Disconnect the steering column where it pokes thru the bulkhead
Remove the PAS pump (3 or 4 bolts, one is behind the pump - you will need to take the pully off the pump nose too) and allow it to dangle. Also pull the PAS res tank off its holder and allow to dangle.
Remove front cross member
Lower the engine down so that the gearbox is resting on the ARB and then remove trolly jack
Remove speedo drive cable
Remove front diff
Remove sump.
Refitting is the opposite of removal, No gasket for the sump, use Hylomar Blue, and make sure you fit new "half moons" at the front and rear
Time - looking about 4 - 5 hours with a few coffee breaks
You might need to use a breaker bar on the 4 bolts that hold the cross member up as they can sometimes be seized in - plenty of WD40 on them from the top (they poke thru the chassis legs at the top) usually helps.
Also, the job is made easier by using an air or electric aimpact gun - makes getting loads of nuts and bolts off quicker and easier on the arms
The job is a bit awkward, but follow the order above and you won't go far wrong - its quite easy to do unless you start trying to remove the front diff with the cross member still in place
Jack car up at front. Support on axle stands under the ARB mounts.
Remove road wheels
Remove front drive shafts (you may have to remove the front diff plate if the circlip is still holding the offside shaft in)
Unbolt engine mount top nuts - 1 per side/mount
Support engine using trolly jack under sump with piece of wood to spead the load
Disconnect the steering column where it pokes thru the bulkhead
Remove the PAS pump (3 or 4 bolts, one is behind the pump - you will need to take the pully off the pump nose too) and allow it to dangle. Also pull the PAS res tank off its holder and allow to dangle.
Remove front cross member
Lower the engine down so that the gearbox is resting on the ARB and then remove trolly jack
Remove speedo drive cable
Remove front diff
Remove sump.
Refitting is the opposite of removal, No gasket for the sump, use Hylomar Blue, and make sure you fit new "half moons" at the front and rear
Time - looking about 4 - 5 hours with a few coffee breaks
You might need to use a breaker bar on the 4 bolts that hold the cross member up as they can sometimes be seized in - plenty of WD40 on them from the top (they poke thru the chassis legs at the top) usually helps.
Also, the job is made easier by using an air or electric aimpact gun - makes getting loads of nuts and bolts off quicker and easier on the arms
The job is a bit awkward, but follow the order above and you won't go far wrong - its quite easy to do unless you start trying to remove the front diff with the cross member still in place
28-10-2007, 12:07 PM
#4
Team HOTHOT!
No problem - I think i've covered just about everything there - its been nearly 2 years since I did mine last time and my memory has faded a bit
It is a time consuming job, if you've never done one before then it takes about 4 hours to remove everything
It is a time consuming job, if you've never done one before then it takes about 4 hours to remove everything
28-10-2007, 12:33 PM
#5
as above but the brake pipe holder is bolts to one of the main craddle bolts
so you can either disconnect the brake pipes for there, or do what i did and use a hammer to bend it over enough to get a socket on the bolt
i take it you have your head off already aswell then
so you can either disconnect the brake pipes for there, or do what i did and use a hammer to bend it over enough to get a socket on the bolt
i take it you have your head off already aswell then
28-10-2007, 12:53 PM
#7
problem is then you need to take the crank out
so you will have to take the block out as the you got to take the flywheel off to drop the crank
why not just pull the rest of the block out as it would be easier
that way you can sort the new bearings out and rings easily
so you will have to take the block out as the you got to take the flywheel off to drop the crank
why not just pull the rest of the block out as it would be easier
that way you can sort the new bearings out and rings easily
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28-10-2007, 01:45 PM
#10
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Originally Posted by OrionRST200bhp
this is starting to sound like a nightmare all i want to do is take the sump off and remove the pistons anyone want a 4x4 cossie 
i want my 2wd back
anyone want a 4x4 cossie i want my 2wd back ) saffs and been able to do 95% of the work on them myself, I have now got a 4x4 saff converted to 2wd, and an Escort Cosworth, and they are both a fucking nightmare to work on, everything is in the way of everything else, everything has fucking stupid brackets bolted to everything else, feels like you have to take the rear lights out to change the oil ...2wd rules
- why the fuck I have ever gone 4x4 who knows? - my drivetrain has cost more than my engine Anyway, back on topic, if you are going that far you might as well just have the lot out and rebuild it properly, if you don't you will be chasing your tail trying to do bits here and there, get everthing done now so you can bolt it back in and have a fresh engine
28-10-2007, 05:01 PM
#13
im sure i'll get round it soon, the car is outside at the moment and with it getting dark early and being cold i just cant be fooked. Im going to ask my landlord if i can stick it in his workshop for a few weeks.
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