Valve seat testing tool ??
#1
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Valve seat testing tool ??
i dont know the proper name, its puts vacum into the ports, and gives the operator a reading on how good the valve/seat are lapp'd in.
it connects to a airline,
and you push it over the port face, and press a trigger, and it show on a gauge whether the valves well seated, etc ect.
Anyone help?
it connects to a airline,
and you push it over the port face, and press a trigger, and it show on a gauge whether the valves well seated, etc ect.
Anyone help?
#3
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You mean a valve leak test . When you take the plug out put that cylinder on TDC and find out weather the valves are leaking by putting compressed air in the cylinder.
Dave
Dave
#5
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Cheers
but i've already got leak down testers.
This machine, test's the valves and head ports only.
Used one a few times @ a local engine builders, He got it from a Car Show, and cant find the reciept for a phone number, or make.
but i've already got leak down testers.
This machine, test's the valves and head ports only.
Used one a few times @ a local engine builders, He got it from a Car Show, and cant find the reciept for a phone number, or make.
#6
PassionFord Post Troll
took my cossie head to a machine shop wid the new valves and they cut the valve seats to match the valves. cost Ł2 per seat to do. cheap as chips and done a stonking jub. car runs spot on.
#7
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Thats all good,
but i've seen problem valves, after gring of the seat and valve, and a quick lap, it still didn't seat propertly, when testing with this tool, and took lots more lap'n to get perfect.
Also this tool can be used with head still on car, just need to remove the mani's to test.
but i've seen problem valves, after gring of the seat and valve, and a quick lap, it still didn't seat propertly, when testing with this tool, and took lots more lap'n to get perfect.
Also this tool can be used with head still on car, just need to remove the mani's to test.
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#9
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when i took my car to MSD they pressurised the whole intake system from turbo inlet on with 30psi and it should hold this for a while (cant remember how long) and slowly leak away. this obviously tests everything including valves.
#13
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Yeah, i thought of making one.
The one i've seen/used has 8 bar vacum when fully sealed.
its got a selection of different suction pads to fit different heads/ports (about 8 in total)
on its gauge,
8 bar is perfect with valve springs fitted
7.5+ is perfect for valves with no valve springs, but i like to see 8 bar.
6-8 bar vacum held in the port is in the green zone as ok.
below 6 bar is real bad.
i thought about using my mighty vac, but that dont do 8 bar vacum.
The one i've seen/used has 8 bar vacum when fully sealed.
its got a selection of different suction pads to fit different heads/ports (about 8 in total)
on its gauge,
8 bar is perfect with valve springs fitted
7.5+ is perfect for valves with no valve springs, but i like to see 8 bar.
6-8 bar vacum held in the port is in the green zone as ok.
below 6 bar is real bad.
i thought about using my mighty vac, but that dont do 8 bar vacum.
#14
Professional Waffler
Originally Posted by DazC
Can you not make one from a cylinder leakage tester?
#15
Professional Waffler
Originally Posted by Fiecos Dan
Yeah, i thought of making one.
The one i've seen/used has 8 bar vacum when fully sealed.
its got a selection of different suction pads to fit different heads/ports (about 8 in total)
on its gauge,
8 bar is perfect with valve springs fitted
7.5+ is perfect for valves with no valve springs, but i like to see 8 bar.
6-8 bar vacum held in the port is in the green zone as ok.
below 6 bar is real bad.
i thought about using my mighty vac, but that dont do 8 bar vacum.
The one i've seen/used has 8 bar vacum when fully sealed.
its got a selection of different suction pads to fit different heads/ports (about 8 in total)
on its gauge,
8 bar is perfect with valve springs fitted
7.5+ is perfect for valves with no valve springs, but i like to see 8 bar.
6-8 bar vacum held in the port is in the green zone as ok.
below 6 bar is real bad.
i thought about using my mighty vac, but that dont do 8 bar vacum.
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You could do it on a flow bench but, that would be an expensive tool.
I suppose to some extent charge pressure would help keep the vlave closed.
I suppose to some extent charge pressure would help keep the vlave closed.
#17
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Originally Posted by GARETH T
Originally Posted by Fiecos Dan
Yeah, i thought of making one.
The one i've seen/used has 8 bar vacum when fully sealed.
its got a selection of different suction pads to fit different heads/ports (about 8 in total)
on its gauge,
8 bar is perfect with valve springs fitted
7.5+ is perfect for valves with no valve springs, but i like to see 8 bar.
6-8 bar vacum held in the port is in the green zone as ok.
below 6 bar is real bad.
i thought about using my mighty vac, but that dont do 8 bar vacum.
The one i've seen/used has 8 bar vacum when fully sealed.
its got a selection of different suction pads to fit different heads/ports (about 8 in total)
on its gauge,
8 bar is perfect with valve springs fitted
7.5+ is perfect for valves with no valve springs, but i like to see 8 bar.
6-8 bar vacum held in the port is in the green zone as ok.
below 6 bar is real bad.
i thought about using my mighty vac, but that dont do 8 bar vacum.
i might be wrong (units), so i'll check next time i see it, or asked my mate that works there.
#19
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May have been 0.8 bar!!
I understand where you're coming from there Gareth with the pressure forcing the valve open. How about those suction pressure brake bleeders which work off air to create a vacuum in a container?
Or how about pressurising the combustion chamber using the cylinder leakage tester again (although that wouldn't indicate which valves were at fault).
I understand where you're coming from there Gareth with the pressure forcing the valve open. How about those suction pressure brake bleeders which work off air to create a vacuum in a container?
Or how about pressurising the combustion chamber using the cylinder leakage tester again (although that wouldn't indicate which valves were at fault).
#20
Advanced PassionFord User
I haven't seen it done on the car before, but don't they normally do it with a flow bench? Just mounting it on the inlet face instead of the combustion chamber face?
#21
Professional Waffler
Or how about pressurising the combustion chamber using the cylinder leakage tester again (although that wouldn't indicate which valves were at fault).
#22
Advanced PassionFord User
If the head is still on the car in that case, you're just doing a leak down test. Which may work, assuming the rings, head gasket and exhaust valves are all sealing 100%
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