I know it varies from engine to engine, Boost levels, Throttle position etc, etc. Can someone give me some examples, Ive been for another test drive, 4th gear from about 1000rpm at WOT along a road with a slight incline, At one point it started to pink very slightly.

Im sure it wasnt the AFR as when I looked through the data logs the AFR on boost was between 11 and 13.3

 

post your ignition map

 

13.3 on boost aint to clever is it??

 

Yes lets see it

 

Whats your spec?

engine, C/r, CC, Turbo, Boost, etc etc??


but you do really want 11.8 - 12.2:1 @ RPM det point, and high rpm. even richer if your EGT's are high.


Also what equipment are you using for the AFR, and to listen to det?

 

Engine 2.0 zetec
C/R about 8.2:1
Boost 15psi at the mo
Turbo SunnyGTIR T28
LC-1 wideband
My ears to listen for det

 

seems to have to much advance there all over

 

Listening for det without an aid of some sort has got bad news written all over it

 

are u using detcans for det checkin

 

in comparision,

my cossie, running 8.6:1, @ 15psi on a GT30 turbo,

The base settings ( not allowing for ACT compensator)

3500 - 7000 rpm = 12.5' ignition timiing across the board.
@29psi , 3500-7000 rpm = between 4 + 5' ignition timing.




You need to run DET cans, as your ear just isnt good enough to map/ det check a engine.

 

No, What on earth are det cans?? I just listen to see if it pinks, I take it by RS1's reply this is a bad idea. There isnt much on megasquirt for knock, There is only a system that retards the timing if it knocks

And judging by that i am too advanced

 

Det cans aid the mapper (YOU) to listen to det.


a cheap set of det cans will cost you Ł10 - Ł20 to make, and are simple. i'm sure some one will post you a link to how to make them.

 

fiesta cossie has just gave u a example

so firstly u need detcans
secondly i would personly take at least 30% out of that map mate

 

Like this ???

Make yourself some detcans and use these as insurance - they're a bit like a stethoscope for an engine. All you need is a pair of ear defenders, some hose and a bit of copper tube. Hammer the end of the tube flat, drill a hole in it and bolt this to the block. Stick the hose in the other end of the copper and route this to the cabin. Drill hose-sized holes in the ear defenders and stuff the hose into these.

Believe it or not, they do work!

 

Thats it.



But till you sort a set of Det cans out, i wouldn't use your car under boost.

 

Cheers, I was given this map by some american chap and he said it worked ok for him, I have actually taken some advance off of that table too because I thought it was a but advanced, I guess I was right, Obviously not right enough You live and learn

 

would u like pics ofhome made ones ?

 

YOU ALSO got to sort the fueling too.

 

ARGH!! ive got a week to sort it out

 

Well fueling should only take abor 20mins to get right for the full boost site's.

 

I belive its gonna be pretty simple to do the fuel, Regarding the fuel I have 2 problems that I am finding hard to sort out, The idle, Needs to be 14.7 AFR, 1 lambda but its varying between 0.97 - 1.03 which is a bugger, I belive I have to use the high res code to sort the idle pulse width, The other problem which is doing my head in is if I go from no throttle to WOT the engine jerks before picking up, Not sure if its the VE table or accelerator enrichment, They are just minor problems that Im hoping to cure once everything else is ok

 

its more likely to be problems with accel enrichment

 

I would like to see some pics of home made ones Jay. Yours i assume?

 

Timing figures for a long stroke small bore motor are likely to be a lot more advanced than a short bore motor like the YB anyway by the way.

 

I have never heard detonation with my ears. There should be a thread that i wrote in the tech essay section showing how to make det cans but you need gold member acess to see it.

Looking at that table and asumming you are taking the ECU timing marks from the stock flywheel so they must be correct, I would say you need to back off some of that advance.

The fueling problem you have sounds like your accel fueling rather than the main map figures. Sometimes it is easier to disable accel fueling whilst mapping your normal map sites so there is no confusion as to where your fuel is coming from. Then when you have the map istes spot on start with hte accel. The LC1 should be fast enough reacting for you to see if she goes lean when you boot it and by how far. Then dial a little fuel in until the lean spike dissapears. I find you can get the accel fuelling pretty good by feel if you experiment with it. This is always easier if you have someone else to map with as you can do quick chages and back to back comparrisons.

 

What size injectors have you got? On a 2ltr engine you should only start struggling to get a good idle on standard MS when using 400ccish and bigger injectors.

Why are you not running closed loop at idle and letting the ECU do this for you?

 

I am using 500cc injectors, As for closed loop at idle, I was told not to

Ive just picked up a Bosch Knock Sensor (part# 0-261-231-006) Luckily my dad has just bought an XE engine for his wezzy and I spotted the knock sensor so I had it away

I had an Idea with the knock sensor but Im not 100% sure if it will work, Connect it the the Mic input in my laptop then plug headphones into the laptop to listen to it

EDIT, Just connected the knock sensor to the mic input on my desktop, I can hear stuff if i tap the knock sensor.

I could even connect the knock sensor to the mic I/P on the laptop then connect my laptop to the CD changer switch box and have 2000w of det

 

Who told you not to use close loop at idle??

What target bhp are you looking for? What can the T28 support?

 

A pulser t28 can produce 320 bhp @ 1.2 bar on a std Pulser,can run more boost, but dont make any more power, just torque, but the turbo's like to sqeel at 1.3 bar, with just A/F and zorst, bleed tap and fuel commander.


spec list-

Pulsar GTi-R: T-28, 60 trim 60 mm BCI-1 compressor in standard T-3 housing. 79 trim 53.8mm Inco T-250 turbine wheel .86 A/R turbine housing. Journal bearings.




A t28 compressor map




As for closed loop, you should do a rough map for part loads, then connect closed loop, that way if a problem happens with the closed loop system, it can full back on limp mod, on a good/ safe map to get you around.

 

If you are looking at making 300 bhp i would drop your injector size by at least 20 %.

If you want a good idle injector size is critical with the original MS due to its 0.1 ms resolution.

I have had problems with it in the past.

With those big injectors you have you wil probably have idle pulse widths in the region of 1.8 ms (of which 1.2 is opening time). MS will not be able to closed loop very well as it can only change the fuelling by 1/6th (in this case) at a time.

If you go smaller injectors your idle pulse widths will go up allowing more accurate adjustment by the ECU and the closed loop will work well.

 

I was also told to use 500cc injectors to get 300bhp, They are actually 440cc with slightly upped fuel pressure

The idle pulse width is 2.2-2.3, There is a new code out called high res, It can get pulse widths in 0.001 res, I am thinking of upgrading to that, The only reason I am bothered about idle if for the MOT emissions test, Lambda 1 +/- 3 and all that

 

You need Greens really for a safe 340 bhp, and they are 390cc.

500cc is good for 440 bhp.


What have you set your Fuel pressure at, set it lower to help idle and cruise fueling, But dont forget to add fuel to the top end.

 

ARGH!!!! I sold my 370cc injectors a few days ago!!

48 PSI fuel pressure

Here is why I chose the injectors I have

 

Surely the new code is 1/100th of a ms (0.01) not 1/1000th (0.001).

Where can the high res code be found? Are there many people running it?

If you do not have the smaller injectors backing your fuel pressure back down to 3 bar (43.5psi) will help increase the pulse width at idle. Are you measuring the base fuel pressure with the vac/boost ref pipe taken off the regulator?

 

Pressure measured with no vacuum pipe

Hi Res code here http://home.comcast.net/~kgrider9982/saab/hr_08g.zip

http://www.msextra.com/viewtopic.php...er=asc&start=0

This is what one of the writers of the new code put

 

It didnt go quite to plan cos I cant get the mic socket on the laptop to work, I connected the knock sensor straight to my ice, My idea works Its sort of a 2000w stethascope, Ive only just tried it, At idle all I can hear are the injectors ticking, Everthing else sounds sweet