not from a cossie but from a 2.0l ghia 8v twin cam jobbie

i know cossie half shafts bolt to the diff, but this un doesnt. do they just pull out like 3 bearing driveshaft or are they splined ones and pul out

or whatever?

would like to know asap too as ford fair is only 2 weeks away, and i only have this week to piss about with it

also, anyone know the size of the clutch for the above??

cheeers

 

aaaaaaaaaannnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyy yyooooooooooooooooooonnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnee eeeeeeeeeeeeeeee??????????????????

 

you've got a drumed rear diff mate
so it won't fit your driveshafts

in other words, you is fooked

unless you find a discs rear diff
the ratio is going to be a 3.92 and it SHOULD be a 7.5 inch diff

the dohc twinky uses a 220 odd mm clutch

 

why am i fooked?

i wanna take the fukker off and get it welded lol, so it will be going back on.

yes it has drums at the rear too, but i just wanna know if the shafts pull out.

cheers for the size of the clutch tho, looks like the cheapo ones on egay aint the ones lol

 

yup, the shafts just pull out with a bit of a yank

thought you had a grann rear end on it?
or is that someone else?

 

for my project 3dr i got proppa 2wd cossie stuff

but the new fast ford project car is 2.0l ghia lol

and yes, its gonna be a drift car hence the welded diff

just gotta learn to drift by ford fair lol so i dont look a complete cunt

that gives us 2 weeks

 

right, beofore i get the tools out lol

i need to undo the 4 bolts holding the diff hanger to the chassis, that will drop the diff down, will i then be able to lever out the half shafts with it still connected to the prop so i dont do a spadge?

or will it twat me on the heed anyway?

 

you need to unbolt the bearing carriers from the rear arms, then pull on them, this will pull them out of the diff

tip tho - undo the prop bolts first or you will struggle

 

Fudgey you cunt you ve killed another car then

 

lol ok, so remove prop, undoe rear arm bolts, undo diff hangar

and the lot falls on the floor?

 

no mate, taking it off to get welded

 

don't forget that you've got to remove the drums in order to get to the bolts you need to undo
there are holes in the hubs so you can JUST about squeeze a 13mm socket through to get to them
then it's just a yank and it's out

but, as gracy says, if you haven't undo the prop you be in a bit of bovver

 

you carnt weld that diff up it will snap them shafts like carrots
just go scrapper and get a granny rear set up with disc brake rear get full beam for Ł30

 

well, rain stopped play lol

the heavens opened and i got fooookin drenched

and marble size hail stones fookin hurt too

i undone the prop, peice of piss with an impact wrench, and then undone all the bolts holding the diff in the beam, but getting the long bolt out was a right a cunt and took me 1/2 hour to beat it out

i unbolted the rear shock on the drivers side, and you can almost lever the shaft out, but not quite.

so i started to undo the swing arm, but you cant push the outer bolt out as it hits the chassis, and that about as far as i got

dojj, if i take the drums off, wont i still need to take the swing arm off to pull the shaft out?

brom, peeps on trampdrift are using the std 2.0l jobby welded up with no probs.

if it breaks, we will get the granny stuff lol

ill have another go tomoz lol

 

cant you just weld it in situ? is that not possible?

 

on drums, you do not need to remove the swinging arm, just the hub carrier that bolts onto the swinging arm, as the tripode joint is thin enough to pull thru the hole in the arm

 

well we used to weld um up stock cars cuz they always broke
then it used to brake shafts so we fitted granny back end
may be constanly going round on a oval track is wat fuked um up

 

Im sure, even tho its not ideal, a lot of people do Sierra ones without even removing it?

Deffo better to remove it tho.

Brom- What model Mk3 granada back end you need, or are they all the same?
7.5in cossie style diff yeah?
I take it you need the whole lot, beam, arms, diff, driveshafts, brakes, the whole lot?

 

yes depending on wat ratios you want
there 3.36
3.62
3.64
3.77
3.89
mixture of 7 and 7.5s there
need beam hubs shafts n diff

 

dojj, graceland - arse

at least i know what to do now lol

cheers

 

But i guess u need the 7.5 as the 7 will be no stonger than the stock sierra shite will it?

3.36 is granada auto isnt it? 7.5in?

 

so do i need to undo the ferkin great 30mm nut to get the drum off?

once drum is off undo 13mm bolts and its off?

 

nononononononono

jack it up
remove the wheel
remove the drum
remove the shoes (all in one go once the little pin things are out you can just slide the whole lot over the top of the hub)
turn the hub so that you can get the holes lined up with the bolts
put a short 13mm 1/2 socket over the bolt you want to undo
stick and extension bar through the hole
undo the bolt (it migth be a tad tight)
turn the hub, repeat the proccess for the other 3 bolts
grab hold of the hub flange itself (the one with the holes in it and the studs for the wheel nuts poking out of it) and YANK!!!!
the whole hub carrier assembly should now be free
get underneath the car and YANK! the driveshaft itself
this should release the bit that goes into the diff without putting extra strain on the cv on the hub side of things
the whole shaft can now be with drawn through the wishbone

hth

 

cheers mate, that explains it lol

 

as of 11am the diff is now on the garage floor, was a peice of piss when you know how!!

cheers to dojj and gracey!!!

ps didnt even need to remove the brake shoes, the hub pulls out no probs

 

Told you it was easy you big girl

 

pics when it's all one big globule of moten metal then please

 

hopefully will get some mate.

i de-greased it last night, its got written on it 3.92, is that good for making the wheels spin lol??

all this ratio talk confuses the hell outta me

 

thats the shortest ratio they do really
you should have either 13 or 14 teeth on the pinion gear and either 46 or 47 on the crownwheel (it's been a while since i did all this stuff)

you should also find that it's going to be the more common 7.5inch diff in the back of the twinky rather than the 7 inch diff you might have been expecting (for some reason the twinky cars are 90% fitted with the 7.5 inch diff)

I've got the other end of the scale in my twinky, as in i've got a 3.14:1, coupled with the 0.75:1 overdrive as fitted to the granny cossie auto box, i should see plenty of mpg crusing down the motorways

 

so the lower the ration, the longer the gearing??

or is it the other way around??

cheers mate.

oh ps, did you got to the cops about your neighbours?

 

the higher the first number, the longer the ratio-n
with your 3.92:1 the prop will turn 3.92 times in order to turn the crownwheel once
with my 3.14:1 diff, the prop only needs to turn 3.14 times in order to turn the crownwheel once

there are lots of people who say you would need more power to turn the longer diff, but, as witnessed in the fsoc rr day in ff, one i had the lowest powered twinky on the day but, at ford fair last year, i absolutly blitzed the guys with more powerfull cars around the track (several times in fact because i kept going off at one particular corner ) because it's all a question of how you make the power and how you use it