removing rear diff?
21-07-2006, 06:18 PM
#1
removing rear diff?
not from a cossie but from a 2.0l ghia 8v twin cam jobbie
i know cossie half shafts bolt to the diff, but this un doesnt. do they just pull out like 3 bearing driveshaft or are they splined ones and pul out
or whatever?
would like to know asap too as ford fair is only 2 weeks away, and i only have this week to piss about with it
also, anyone know the size of the clutch for the above??
cheeers
i know cossie half shafts bolt to the diff, but this un doesnt. do they just pull out like 3 bearing driveshaft or are they splined ones and pul out
or whatever?
would like to know asap too as ford fair is only 2 weeks away, and i only have this week to piss about with it
also, anyone know the size of the clutch for the above??
cheeers
21-07-2006, 09:38 PM
#3
you've got a drumed rear diff mate
so it won't fit your driveshafts
in other words, you is fooked
unless you find a discs rear diff
the ratio is going to be a 3.92 and it SHOULD be a 7.5 inch diff
the dohc twinky uses a 220 odd mm clutch
so it won't fit your driveshafts
in other words, you is fooked
unless you find a discs rear diff
the ratio is going to be a 3.92 and it SHOULD be a 7.5 inch diff
the dohc twinky uses a 220 odd mm clutch
21-07-2006, 09:47 PM
#4
why am i fooked?
i wanna take the fukker off and get it welded lol, so it will be going back on.
yes it has drums at the rear too, but i just wanna know if the shafts pull out.
cheers for the size of the clutch tho, looks like the cheapo ones on egay aint the ones lol
i wanna take the fukker off and get it welded lol, so it will be going back on.
yes it has drums at the rear too, but i just wanna know if the shafts pull out.
cheers for the size of the clutch tho, looks like the cheapo ones on egay aint the ones lol
21-07-2006, 09:57 PM
#6
for my project 3dr i got proppa 2wd cossie stuff
but the new fast ford project car is 2.0l ghia lol
and yes, its gonna be a drift car hence the welded diff
just gotta learn to drift by ford fair lol so i dont look a complete cunt
that gives us 2 weeks
but the new fast ford project car is 2.0l ghia lol
and yes, its gonna be a drift car hence the welded diff
just gotta learn to drift by ford fair lol so i dont look a complete cunt
that gives us 2 weeks
22-07-2006, 09:14 AM
#7
right, beofore i get the tools out lol
i need to undo the 4 bolts holding the diff hanger to the chassis, that will drop the diff down, will i then be able to lever out the half shafts with it still connected to the prop so i dont do a spadge?
or will it twat me on the heed anyway?
i need to undo the 4 bolts holding the diff hanger to the chassis, that will drop the diff down, will i then be able to lever out the half shafts with it still connected to the prop so i dont do a spadge?
or will it twat me on the heed anyway?
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22-07-2006, 09:16 AM
#8
Team HOTHOT!
you need to unbolt the bearing carriers from the rear arms, then pull on them, this will pull them out of the diff 
tip tho - undo the prop bolts first or you will struggle
tip tho - undo the prop bolts first or you will struggle
22-07-2006, 10:27 AM
#12
don't forget that you've got to remove the drums in order to get to the bolts you need to undo
there are holes in the hubs so you can JUST about squeeze a 13mm socket through to get to them
then it's just a yank and it's out
but, as gracy says, if you haven't undo the prop you be in a bit of bovver
there are holes in the hubs so you can JUST about squeeze a 13mm socket through to get to them
then it's just a yank and it's out
but, as gracy says, if you haven't undo the prop you be in a bit of bovver
22-07-2006, 12:42 PM
#14
well, rain stopped play lol
the heavens opened and i got fooookin drenched
and marble size hail stones fookin hurt too
i undone the prop, peice of piss with an impact wrench, and then undone all the bolts holding the diff in the beam, but getting the long bolt out was a right a cunt and took me 1/2 hour to beat it out
i unbolted the rear shock on the drivers side, and you can almost lever the shaft out, but not quite.
so i started to undo the swing arm, but you cant push the outer bolt out as it hits the chassis, and that about as far as i got
dojj, if i take the drums off, wont i still need to take the swing arm off to pull the shaft out?
brom, peeps on trampdrift are using the std 2.0l jobby welded up with no probs.
if it breaks, we will get the granny stuff lol
ill have another go tomoz lol
the heavens opened and i got fooookin drenched
and marble size hail stones fookin hurt too
i undone the prop, peice of piss with an impact wrench, and then undone all the bolts holding the diff in the beam, but getting the long bolt out was a right a cunt and took me 1/2 hour to beat it out
i unbolted the rear shock on the drivers side, and you can almost lever the shaft out, but not quite.
so i started to undo the swing arm, but you cant push the outer bolt out as it hits the chassis, and that about as far as i got
dojj, if i take the drums off, wont i still need to take the swing arm off to pull the shaft out?
brom, peeps on trampdrift are using the std 2.0l jobby welded up with no probs.
if it breaks, we will get the granny stuff lol
ill have another go tomoz lol
22-07-2006, 12:59 PM
#16
Team HOTHOT!
on drums, you do not need to remove the swinging arm, just the hub carrier that bolts onto the swinging arm, as the tripode joint is thin enough to pull thru the hole in the arm
22-07-2006, 01:01 PM
#17
well we used to weld um up stock cars cuz they always broke
then it used to brake shafts so we fitted granny back end
may be constanly going round on a oval track is wat fuked um up
then it used to brake shafts so we fitted granny back end
may be constanly going round on a oval track is wat fuked um up
22-07-2006, 01:07 PM
#18
DEYTUKURJERBS
Im sure, even tho its not ideal, a lot of people do Sierra ones without even removing it?
Deffo better to remove it tho.
Brom- What model Mk3 granada back end you need, or are they all the same?
7.5in cossie style diff yeah?
I take it you need the whole lot, beam, arms, diff, driveshafts, brakes, the whole lot?
Deffo better to remove it tho.
Brom- What model Mk3 granada back end you need, or are they all the same?
7.5in cossie style diff yeah?
I take it you need the whole lot, beam, arms, diff, driveshafts, brakes, the whole lot?
22-07-2006, 01:28 PM
#21
DEYTUKURJERBS
Originally Posted by BROM@ZOO
yes depending on wat ratios you want
there 3.36
3.62
3.64
3.77
3.89
mixture of 7 and 7.5s there
need beam hubs shafts n diff
there 3.36
3.62
3.64
3.77
3.89
mixture of 7 and 7.5s there
need beam hubs shafts n diff
3.36 is granada auto isnt it? 7.5in?
22-07-2006, 08:02 PM
#23
Originally Posted by fudgeass
so do i need to undo the ferkin great 30mm nut to get the drum off?
once drum is off undo 13mm bolts and its off?
once drum is off undo 13mm bolts and its off?
jack it up
remove the wheel
remove the drum
remove the shoes (all in one go once the little pin things are out you can just slide the whole lot over the top of the hub)
turn the hub so that you can get the holes lined up with the bolts
put a short 13mm 1/2 socket over the bolt you want to undo
stick and extension bar through the hole
undo the bolt (it migth be a tad tight)
turn the hub, repeat the proccess for the other 3 bolts
grab hold of the hub flange itself (the one with the holes in it and the studs for the wheel nuts poking out of it) and YANK!!!!
the whole hub carrier assembly should now be free
get underneath the car and YANK! the driveshaft itself
this should release the bit that goes into the diff without putting extra strain on the cv on the hub side of things
the whole shaft can now be with drawn through the wishbone
hth
25-07-2006, 10:17 AM
#29
thats the shortest ratio they do really
you should have either 13 or 14 teeth on the pinion gear and either 46 or 47 on the crownwheel (it's been a while since i did all this stuff)
you should also find that it's going to be the more common 7.5inch diff in the back of the twinky rather than the 7 inch diff you might have been expecting (for some reason the twinky cars are 90% fitted with the 7.5 inch diff)
I've got the other end of the scale in my twinky, as in i've got a 3.14:1, coupled with the 0.75:1 overdrive as fitted to the granny cossie auto box, i should see plenty of mpg crusing down the motorways
you should have either 13 or 14 teeth on the pinion gear and either 46 or 47 on the crownwheel (it's been a while since i did all this stuff)
you should also find that it's going to be the more common 7.5inch diff in the back of the twinky rather than the 7 inch diff you might have been expecting (for some reason the twinky cars are 90% fitted with the 7.5 inch diff)
I've got the other end of the scale in my twinky, as in i've got a 3.14:1, coupled with the 0.75:1 overdrive as fitted to the granny cossie auto box, i should see plenty of mpg crusing down the motorways
25-07-2006, 07:51 PM
#31
the higher the first number, the longer the ratio-n
with your 3.92:1 the prop will turn 3.92 times in order to turn the crownwheel once
with my 3.14:1 diff, the prop only needs to turn 3.14 times in order to turn the crownwheel once
there are lots of people who say you would need more power to turn the longer diff, but, as witnessed in the fsoc rr day in ff, one i had the lowest powered twinky on the day but, at ford fair last year, i absolutly blitzed the guys with more powerfull cars around the track (several times in fact because i kept going off at one particular corner
) because it's all a question of how you make the power and how you use it
with your 3.92:1 the prop will turn 3.92 times in order to turn the crownwheel once
with my 3.14:1 diff, the prop only needs to turn 3.14 times in order to turn the crownwheel once
there are lots of people who say you would need more power to turn the longer diff, but, as witnessed in the fsoc rr day in ff, one i had the lowest powered twinky on the day but, at ford fair last year, i absolutly blitzed the guys with more powerfull cars around the track (several times in fact because i kept going off at one particular corner
) because it's all a question of how you make the power and how you use it
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