megasquirt help
#1
PassionFord Post Whore!!
Thread Starter
megasquirt help
right, got my adaptor loom sorted. well today I pluged it in and turned ign to test fuel pump. The pump came on then I thought fuck try and start it for a laugh as the laptop was one charge, fuck me it started, phil who built it said he would give me a basic setup and fook me he did.
now the problems the TPS is reading 100% no matter what checked wiring seemed fine.
ATS is reading -40 and so WTS is -40, I know that the sensores need calibrating, but nothing?
now the software seem to default MAP V RMP in the fuel table?
any way I will mail Phil readarding it, but any extra help would be good
tar
now the problems the TPS is reading 100% no matter what checked wiring seemed fine.
ATS is reading -40 and so WTS is -40, I know that the sensores need calibrating, but nothing?
now the software seem to default MAP V RMP in the fuel table?
any way I will mail Phil readarding it, but any extra help would be good
tar
#3
PassionFord Post Whore!!
Thread Starter
There is a auto calibration bit were you release excellerator and set base point the put foot flat to give full throttle and click .
but both readings are 100% which suggests dodgy wireing, but it seems correct.
the car does run, but rich as a bitch as I think it just pumps fuel for a certain rpm, but once I connet the MAP it will idle but will not rev
but both readings are 100% which suggests dodgy wireing, but it seems correct.
the car does run, but rich as a bitch as I think it just pumps fuel for a certain rpm, but once I connet the MAP it will idle but will not rev
#5
PassionFord Post Troll
Use a multi-meter to check your TPS. Switch it to measure resistance. The resistance between two of the connections will stay the same when the throttle is moved. Find those two - one will be the +5 Vref and the other a ground. The third is the sense wire to MS. To figure out which wire is the +5 Vref and which is the ground, connect your meter to one of those two connections and the other to the TPS sense connection.
If you read a high resistance which gets lower as you open the throttle, then disconnected wire is the one which goes to ground, the other one which had the continuous resistance goes to the +5 Vref from the MS, and the remaining wire is the TPS sense wire.
If you read a high resistance which gets lower as you open the throttle, then disconnected wire is the one which goes to ground, the other one which had the continuous resistance goes to the +5 Vref from the MS, and the remaining wire is the TPS sense wire.
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#9
the TPS
I just had the same problem.. turned out i forgot to ground the TPS signal, after that it read fine after calibration!
I'm having other problems with my MS though,soz offt, which is why i registered here to read about it, MS itsn't to big in Norway yet.
We think we've mounted the harness right. We got the TPS signal and Map signal. No sparks whatsoever... Could the EDIS be broken (got it used), wrong wiring? Anything?
We used MT V. 2.20 and couldn't get the MS to recieve and save the settings when we clicked "send to ecu". When we pushed that alot of error messages came up about the constants on the injectors.
Anyone know anything?
I'm having other problems with my MS though,soz offt, which is why i registered here to read about it, MS itsn't to big in Norway yet.
We think we've mounted the harness right. We got the TPS signal and Map signal. No sparks whatsoever... Could the EDIS be broken (got it used), wrong wiring? Anything?
We used MT V. 2.20 and couldn't get the MS to recieve and save the settings when we clicked "send to ecu". When we pushed that alot of error messages came up about the constants on the injectors.
Anyone know anything?
#10
PassionFord Post Troll
The error messages are because you haven't got sensible figures in the injector constants. Set the injector opening times and voltage correction to what it suggests in the pop up box to get you started and the error will go away.
Then go to the comms section and do a comms test to see if you have the comm port set up right.
Then go to the comms section and do a comms test to see if you have the comm port set up right.
#12
ms
Got the pc communicating with the MS today.. We used an old version of MT (2.20) And now on the newest I think, which was 2.25. It's getting fuel, which is good, but no spark.
It seems that the controller get no power when i switch the ignition onto the starter. Some relay clicks when i turn the key to the second position, but that's normal? When i click the key back from the starter position, MT "gets power" again.
We can't seem to figure out _why_ there's no spark..
It seems that the controller get no power when i switch the ignition onto the starter. Some relay clicks when i turn the key to the second position, but that's normal? When i click the key back from the starter position, MT "gets power" again.
We can't seem to figure out _why_ there's no spark..
#13
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ONE of your problems.....
Sounds like you have wired the power from the accessory point on
the ignition key instead of the ignition normal power on point to me.
The accessory power is normally switched off during starting to help
the starter motor crank faster !
Sounds like you have wired the power from the accessory point on
the ignition key instead of the ignition normal power on point to me.
The accessory power is normally switched off during starting to help
the starter motor crank faster !
#14
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have u got 12v at the ignition amp and 12v at the coil on the second position on the ignition key?
If not then its dodgy wiring.
If you have then its ECU or sensor related 99% of the time.
or a faulty amp or coil.
If not then its dodgy wiring.
If you have then its ECU or sensor related 99% of the time.
or a faulty amp or coil.
#15
Originally Posted by SECS
ONE of your problems.....
Sounds like you have wired the power from the accessory point on
the ignition key instead of the ignition normal power on point to me.
The accessory power is normally switched off during starting to help
the starter motor crank faster !
Sounds like you have wired the power from the accessory point on
the ignition key instead of the ignition normal power on point to me.
The accessory power is normally switched off during starting to help
the starter motor crank faster !
#16
Originally Posted by Ryan
have u got 12v at the ignition amp and 12v at the coil on the second position on the ignition key?
If not then its dodgy wiring.
If you have then its ECU or sensor related 99% of the time.
or a faulty amp or coil.
If not then its dodgy wiring.
If you have then its ECU or sensor related 99% of the time.
or a faulty amp or coil.
#17
Originally Posted by abn0rmal
Originally Posted by SECS
ONE of your problems.....
Sounds like you have wired the power from the accessory point on
the ignition key instead of the ignition normal power on point to me.
The accessory power is normally switched off during starting to help
the starter motor crank faster !
Sounds like you have wired the power from the accessory point on
the ignition key instead of the ignition normal power on point to me.
The accessory power is normally switched off during starting to help
the starter motor crank faster !
#20
weee, car started! Not running clean but still Here a clip shot with my phone camera
http://media.putfile.com/RS-Turbo-98
*typo*
http://media.putfile.com/RS-Turbo-98
*typo*
#21
20K+ Super Poster.
kent cams... AGAIN
that reminds me theyve still got my cams and i need to get them back so i can get them independantly inspected
that reminds me theyve still got my cams and i need to get them back so i can get them independantly inspected
#22
hum
there was something wrong with ur cams? I got piper cam though, kent pulley And damn them for not making a mark that really shows the "top-point". Don't know what u call that in english :P
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