Micky The Finn

the end of the crank is exceptionally strong,it will take some effort to damage it,if in doubt use a 10p peice,

you dont need a puller to remove the crank pulley,just two tools that everyone has in there tool box,takes less than thirty seconds as well.

tricks of the trade.

Turbo lag

Franco

iTrader: (2)

Well its off now!

So Tim what does this trick involve then?

Also this now leads to another prob, how the heel do you get the toothed pulley off behind!

Micky The Finn

a wood work chisel,just run it down the back of the washer between the cambelt pully,ive only ever needed to use a puller on about three wheels ever and i must have took over 400 of these off easily,iam still useing the same chisel,some times you need a new washer but very rarely,the little cambelt pully can be a real pain though,carefull or you will break the alloy seal plate,but why do you want to even take it off?

Franco

iTrader: (2)

I've got a feeling the crank case seal needs replacing......... Its very dirty around the lower front area, and i think its coming from there.

Also is it ok to use a little film of copper grease on the shafts when putting these pulleys back on? Its gott make life a hell of a lot easier......

Ps that crank was an utter bit to remove!! I thought i'd broken it once it freed itself!!

rsnissan

iTrader: (9)

THATS the one i needed the heat for............................

ended up using a puller on the bloody ally cover in the end and pulling that of (taking the small toothed pulley off with it!)

Franco

iTrader: (2)

Ahhh!
Said the blind man to the deaf dog!

Micky The Finn

copper slip will be fine when refitting.
if you brake your ally plate ive hundreds here.

Franco

iTrader: (2)

Nice one tim!