TIFF

I am after a series 1 buying guide, i know the basics but i want a good one with the chassi numbers ect like people have for 3DRs

I know about the normal rot places but im sure there is a more indepth list of rules to go by

Or if anyone has a spare copy of a Performance Ford/Fast Ford with one in that would be cool

Mr S1

iTrader: (2)

You have PM

TIFF

Stu

I will ring you once i have got the kids in bed, will be quiter then mate....Cheers

TIFF

Oh, found a fucking awesome guide obn the RSOC site

Not too sure if i should paste it into here

Charlie Chalk

iTrader: (1)

why not, would be handy for others that dont use it?

TIFF

INFO TAKEN FROM THE RSOC BB--RSWOZA
(Hope they/he doesnt mind)

firstly what money u looking at spending ? this is a big point !
Ł500-2000 very dangerous area to buy a s1 bargins and rotten dogs or spares only hpi recorded accident damaged etc abondond projects are also around this figure
Ł2000 will get u a s1 which requires work may have history but will be tired after all its a 17 year old car .
Ł3000 will get u a good one should history (scattered) average miles to below average should be quite clean etc
Ł3500 and above should get very clean or very modified tidy example + concours cars are in the upper limits i paid Ł7500 for mine 16500 miles and it quite tidy
so you have some idea of how much u have to spend next where to find one
well theres here for a start the for sale section is a good place to start in the mk 3/4 and mk5 escorts for sale
theres the auto trader (www.autotrader.co.uk)
theres the locl rag
theres the local dealers (be very wary though)
auctions (again be wary)
fast ford
perfomance ford
classic ford
word of mouth from friends and family etc

at the end of the day a s1 is quite a rare little car and ask this question first why is it for sale ?

so you know how much your prepared to spend (go for as much as you can afford if not higher and haggle like mad to get a good deal ie if you have Ł3000 go for Ł3500 or Ł3250 providing there not that far away.

make a short list of which ones your interested in in mags or papers etc and lay them out on a table in front of you so you know how many your looking at when i bought my first one i had a short list of 6 but as im in cornwall it isnt practicable to view cars in scotland or londen so i picked cars in local area i south west.

next if u know nothing about s1 rsturbos ( u will after reading this) you need to go to a rsoc show (if possible during show season) and view some of the concours cars i know your not going to get on for the money u maybe thinking of spending but you will see a pure super clean s1 and when u go and view s1 at leats u will have a image in your head of what a s1 looks like and whats there and whats not.or on the other hand view a friends car or one of the local grouo cars they would be more then happy im sure to show u round the car and five advise.i found doing this helped me buy my car as you have seen one in the flesh and you dont go viewing a car not realy knowing what your looking at.

next u now know what a s1 looks like and a bit more familier with them. so you need to phone a few up this is where it gets interesting .ive done this several times and have made out a list of questions to ask + leaving space for an answer (as can get confused with phoning up 5-6 cars and getting loads on info so heres the rs woza check list:-

1 ALWAYS ALWAYS ALWAYS DONT FORGET THIS ask about the car for sale not the s1 turbo as this catchs out traders who havent declared them selves so if there concealing that what else are they concealing?
2 registration they may give it again tells u if they are familier with the car also get it checked out with the series one registrar hes called adrian eastbury his phone number is in the rally news and he may or may not have information on the car also you can do a hpi check on it later on.
3 is the car hpi clear if not im not realy interested and nether should you be politely ask why and end the conversation. if they say yes ask if they have the certificate and who did it ie aa or the hpi people( will post numbers at end of topic )
4 has the car been in an accident if it has im not interested and again politly ask whan and what happened and end the conversation depending on what was done if REALLY MINOR MAY VIEW.
5 has it had ANY panel replacement if it has why ie if its had two font wings and a front panel the odds are its had a front end smack at some point however as there an old car now so many may have had restoration work if they have ask to see photos or get them sent to you if they havent any its more then likely accint damage thats unrecorded so end conversation just use comman sense realy my old s1 has had a rear quarter at some point and its fine so just be carefull
6 is any thing missing this is important as a lot of s1 parts are becoming or are already obsalite ie tow eye cover Ł40 to replace and its only a piece of plastic also any body kit damage also very expensive but not imposible to replace or repare
7 old mots and service history if it hasent got any be wary and the milage isnt worth jack also will give u an idea as to weather ir not the car has been looked after also ask MILEAGE lower the better
8 current mot? how much what was required for last mot?will give you idea of mot standard of the car
9 how many owners i know its an old car but the fewer the owner the better i think
10 when last rolling roaded gives you idea owner looks after the car
11 modifications depends realy on what your after i personally would buy a lesser modified as moded ones (some) have had a very hard life but, would have said will have stainless exhaust air filter possilby chipped dumpvalve etc any realy moded ones ie 1.9 or zvh engine conversions need to be looked at very carefully as they can cost a lot when they go pop!but as i said go for a MILDLY modified or standard car
12 why selling ? i think thats important personaly if quick short and sharp there tellin truth if there a long answer there fibbin!
13 how long owned? again if they have owned 2 months be suspisous i would!
14 are you club member?
15 has it been garaged? if it has there usally in better condition even if the mileage is quite high
16 what was the car used for? every day or weekend car even got one bloke who told me he did hill climbs in it!again bear this in mind!
17 dont waste there time what are they like on price ie agreable or no offers
18 condition BODY/SHELL ,INTERIA,MECHANICAL with xperiance the body is the most important one as its a 17 year old car and can cost a fortune to put right if u buy a rust bucket ask about battery tray ,sills,inner sills,chassis legs,boot floor,doors,bonnet ,tailgate,roof guttering around sunroof and petrolcap
interia ford cloth is expensive and so are retrims and second interias so bear this in mind if they say knackerd ask about dash if its cracked very hard to get good one un cracked one
mechanicaly well be sensible at the end of the day use commen sense if they say they have had full rebuild remember when looking through the recipts if they say slight attention required bear in mind with price ask if turbo has been refurbed Ł350 to refurb also gear box ask if work been recenty replaced etc
19 when can i view it?

simple as that!

next if you dont realy know all that much about s1 rst then get on the phone and get somone who does know ie rsoc member or close friend and a good local mechanic friend or family.and ask them to go with you when u go to view it its also (this may sound daft) but take a woman with you girl friend sister shag nasty doesnt matter you would be amazed at what you can over look but what a woman can pick up on and spot so bear that in mind

arrange a time and place preferable at there home address not at a petrol station off the m5! so you know where they live if sumit goes wrong or you have probs!

NEVER CARRY CASH WITH YOU WHEN YOU GO TO VIEW A CAR ONLY DEPOSIT MONEY OR CHECK /BANKERS DRAFT as theres some dodgy geezers out there so be warned !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

right where do i start?
well first i have a quick peak at the car and ask to see the v5 certificate and all the history on the car and read through it.

CHECK THE V5 CERTIFICATE AGAINST THE BLOKE WHO IS SELLING THE CAR AND THE ADDRESS WHERE U ARE VIEWING THE CAR ASK TO SEE SOME ID AS WELL ON THE V5 CERT IS A CHASSIS NUMBER IT SHOULD START WFOBXX??????????? CHECK THIS NUMBER AGAINST THE VIN PLATE ON THE FRONT PANEL AS U LIFT THE BONNET UP CHECK FOR TAMPERING DODGE POP RIVETS ETC . ALSO AGAINST THE NUMBER ON THE DRIVERS FLOOR PAN TO THE RIGHT OH THE DRIVERS SEAT LIFT UP THE CARPET AND THE NUMBER IS STAMPED IN THE FLOOR PAN CAHECK AROUND THIS AREA VERY CAREFULLY FOR WELDING AND TAMPERING IF YOU CAN LIFT UP THE CARPET AND MAKE SURE A SMALL SECTION HASENT JUST BEEN STUCK DOWN WITH GLUE OR SUMUT SEEN THAT BEFORE!!!! # IF THERES ANY DOUBT ON THIS SUBJECT WALK# AWAY ALSO CHECK THE ENGINE NUMBER SHOULD BE STAMPED ON A SMALL PIECE OF THE ENGINE BLOCK TOP LEFT HAND SIDE AS YOU VIEW IT IF DIFFERENT ASK WHY?IS ALSO CAST ON THE BLOCK BUT ITS DIFFICULT TO SEE BEHIND THE TURBO


check number of owners , last change of keepers,and that it says escort rs turbo on the v5 cert just to see if matey is tellin u fibs.
check through history whan serviced also look at milage which should be wriiten on recipts to see if the milage works out . see how frequently oil has been changed i change mine every 3000 will increase life of turbo and look after engine look for how many tyres bought (wheather there a boy racer) wheel bearings brake pads etc indecating problems look for recent turbo overhaul/replacement same with clutch and or gear box and any recent engine work and who did it look for big name companies not back street garages .CHECK MILAGE ON MOT CERTS AND LOOK AT WHERE MOTED DOES IT TALLY UP WITH REST OF HISTORY?basicallyuse comman sense check the person buying the parts to against prev owners and currant owner

THE CAR
(see pics)
i normally go about it in a methodical order u will have (should have 2 other friends +a woman make sure that the car is cold previously ask that the owner leves it cold for when you view it.
lift bonnetlook at the to wings wher they join the inner wings have they been replaced i have viewed 3-4 cars that have had BOTH wings replaced when i asked on the phone i was told they were original and they didnt understand why i got angry got in my car and went home you should have written down all info on the phone and check that off against what there saying so check wings for original spot welds not mig welded spot welds or it might be flush welded and flushed off or could be respot welded .
the wings should have ford stamps in them and a date mark
check the front panel is original look for bits of mig wire sticking out blods of weld etc then shut bonnet and look at the panel gaps make sure there the same on both side if not the bonet could have been of recently or somthing is a miss!look arond the scuttle panel for damage as s1 and s2 bonnets have a nasty habit of flying up so check under neith for gobs of filler check under the bonnet for the aluminium heat shield that shoud be stuck to the under bonnet sound deadening it may have fell off buy now but there should be a mark where it was.
check around headlights for rust inside and out and the front cross member and inner front wings especially the battery tray and under the fuse box expensive and time consuming to repair.
while your at the front check the tow eye cover is original and not cheap micky mouse copy actully take it off and look on the inside for a ford mark.cheak rivots holes where the fix the kit to the shell look for rust and damage to the kit they should be small rivots and they shoud be white not a shiny grey as they indecate the kit has been of if so ask why, check under the car for rot behind the front valance and while your ther you should be able to see the anti roll bar asembaly which is different to s2 and normal escort there are two big cast pices in the corners and there s square box section piece behind the front bar there aare also calmps on the back of the assembaly towards the wheels just make sure all of that is there if not why?
carry on around the car checking doors ie look underneath for rot and make sure the door sits right even panel gaps and check the sills inner and outer for corrosion(if there sill covers in stainless ask if he can lift them up of off so you can look undre them for rot.
under the car prod with finger knuckle for rust onder the skirts if spongy they will need replacing.

also check around chassis number for welding floor pan replacement look for clean areas and fresh under seal .look at roof guttering for rot and pull sun roof right back and check for rot in the channels take off petrol cap and look for rust here (mine was quite bad)open the boot take out the carpet and look at the boot floor for welding the right hand chassis leg normal goes and is welded from inside just patched up so check around this area also chck for possible rear panel replacement mig welding non genuine spot welds gobs of filler overspray all indicating accident damage. check the rear quarters for repalcement(my drivers side has been replaced) there should be spott welds all the way up the seam look for gride marks etc .lift up the rear seat in the back as u can see areas u CANT view from under neath this may show either rot or accident damage.check the tail gate for rot and where it joins the car the hinge area can go a bit rusty as mine is starting. there may be a build no in marker in the boot floor and stickers (they may or may not be there but they should be if low milage and enthusiast owned ). get under neath on ramp if owner will agree go down local kwik fit etc and bung them a fiver for 10 mins if there not busy and have a good look for ripples in floorpand and rot take the spare wheel out and haver a look at the area where it sits basically use comman sense and take into consideration when making an offer

wheels they should be seven spoke dsign and there shoud be a date embossed on to each wheel the ia a small motorsport symbol and writing on 3 other spokes if there isnt they could be rs1600i wheels whichonly have writtin on one spoke so bare that in mind and point out to owner also check the spare the center caps should be plain silver(ive got 16i caps which are a light green in colour and have rs on them and look better imo)they should have (if very low milage)mxv michalin tyres as standard the exhaust if original is also quite valuableas very rare so dont throw away if its on the car!
look at the sticker kit as well the rs turbo sticker on the boot should be on the swage line not below it that will show after market one and respray work has been done also make sure the side strips are correct as well and should have rs side decals on the wings.
also the front panel should have a cut out for the fan, it does look as though its had a bit just chopped out but thats how it came from ford.also the grill, its black on the top ie its been masked off, so if the grill is completly black its been sprayed by someone at another time.

there is a motorsport version which has no sunroof,manual windows,fixed rear quarters where as the CUSTUM HAS THESE there is also a crome arial on the drivers wing which is becoming sort after so dont bin it and put a stupid bee sting in.the other lads on here will inform u betteabout this as im not all that clued up on this area!

i normally have a gander with a mate on the mechanics and make sure every thing is there and ie turbo! and make sure noyhing is lose and doesnt look like its been attacked by a weekend warrior! look for signs of coolent leak(cyrstal deposits around hose ends ) oil leaks ie cheak where the car is normally stored /kept look on the floor here .take filler cap off and look for mayonase like scum check oil level (to see if its watery or very low indecating neglect)check header tank water for oil and colour of water for anti freeze which shows possible head gasket failer look for signs af recent work part repalement ie clips missing untidy routing if cables vacume hoses etc and ask why.check that it has a s1 engine,i know it sounds funny but i viewed one recently that had a s2 engine with engine numbers ground off.the dead give away was the inlet manifold on the s1 its all in one piece on the s2 it has a upper and lower part.check that it has a s1 header tank as aposed to s2 as agian this may make u look at other things.i found that the car i viewed MUST have been a stolen recovered imo.the hpi check was clear with a certificate but even then i just had a bad feeliing that things didnt add up.if u think that something doesnt add up DONT BUY walk away.

i normall start car listen to it for noise and let the car warm up till it gets hot listen /wait fo the fan to cut in MAKE SURE THE INTERIA FAN IS ON COLD AND IS OFF let the cooling fan come on and off twice just tio make sure there no overheating problems then tun offf and restart to see if there any hot start probs ask for test drive as for all cars make sure it drives straight and that you drive it at all speeds not just around the block at 30 mph take it on a by pass and brake at speed to see if brakes are warped (there a pile of crap any way and will probaly be warped. check the clutch drive at 30-40 put in fifth gear and floor it if revs go up quicker then speed knackered clutch also look for smoke on over ru indecating knacked turbo (u can take off top boost hose when cold and give the turbo shaft a wiggle to check for play there should be non )the ride should be firm and should feel nice aroud corners (not at 90 mph! on a test run) tehre may be some tappet rattle which wil cost a new set of tappets and cam shaft if realy noisey so buget for piper or kent cam kit if it annoyes yougera change should be smooth and tight not all over the place use comman sense and if it dont feel right walk away.
also check for un even tyre where indecating tracking problems or accident damage.

forgot interia dash as said earlier hard to find replace ment can get plastic welded up but pain in ass job as windscreen has to come outor you take dash out( pain in the asss job)check the seats for wear and the pedals indecating mileage check carpet for fag burns and water indecating leaks and dont fall for the " just washed them" routine as the batterytray leaks like a sive when roten as dose the fuse box actualy sit in the back seat and look at every thing cheak the caps are there on the back of the screws on the opening rear quarters and the back seat fold down and back up ok cheak the windows are BRONZE TINT also look for etching on the windows from other cars or if the etching has been covered over.

Charlie Chalk

iTrader: (1)

i'll read that another time

PT

Body
Type: pressed steel monocoque Escort three-door hatchback shell with Ford RS
bodykit including front spoiler and tailgate spoiler.

Colours
Diamond White.

Engine
Type: CVH
Capacity: 1596cc
Bore/stroke: 79.96 mm x 79.52 mm
Compression ratio: 8.3:1
Max power: 132 bhp @ 6000 rpm
Max torque: 133 lbf.ft @ 3000 rpm
Cylinders: four, in-line
Cylinder head: alloy
Block: cast iron
Installation: front-mounted, transverse
Valve gear: two cylinders per head, operated by belt driven overhead camshaft
Induction: Garrett T3 turbo, intercooler, Bosch KE-jetronic fuel injection

Transmission
Type: front-wheel-drive
Gearbox: five-speed Ford manual with 218mm clutch, viscous limited slip differential
Internal ratios: 1st, 3.15:1; 2nd, 1.91:1; 3rd, 1.27:1; 4th, 0.95:1; 5th, 0.76:1
Final drive: 4.27:1

Suspension
Front: MacPherson struts, tie bar arrangement with separate 16mm anti-roll bar
Rear: independent with transverse trailing arms, coil springs, telescopic dampers and
12mm anti-roll bar

Steering
Type: variable-ratio rack-and-pinion

Brakes
System: vacuum servo-assisted dual circuit hydraulic
Front: 240mm ventilated discs
Rear: 203mm drums

Wheels & Tyres
Wheels: seven-spoke RS alloys, 6x15
Tyres: 195/50 VR15

Performance
Max speed: 132 mph
0-60 mph: 7.8 sec



Identity
You’ll find the chassis numbers on the front slam panel and stamped directly on the
driver’s side floorplan. On the floorplan it’s hidden under the cut-away carpet and if
there’s any fresh paint or welding in this area then walk away.

Bodywork
Bottom line is you need to check for rust. Check the battery tray, chassis runners
(especially the rear section), front and rear wings (the kit can hide some bad rust),
bulkhead, plus give the scuttle panel a good prod. Another problem is crash damage.
Look for mismatched panel colours, overspray, large panel gaps and wonky filled
patches. Check the car under artificial light for signs of bad re-painting. This is where
street lights are gold mine.

Engine
Even though the CVH is about as tough as they come, turbocharging is still going to
take its toll. Blue smoke from the oil in the chambers is a sure sign of wear and could
mean either piston rings, valve stems, pistons or cylinder bores are up the duff. Blown
head gaskets area risk with modified boost pressures and cam belts will have needed
to be changed fairly often, so ask for some history. Even if its receipts for changed
parts. All goes to verify things..no matter how little.

Transmission
The Series One gearbox was basically a beefed-up version of the XR3i’s. Some
people fit a cheaper XR box when the RST’s original gives up. The only problem with
this is that the car will then be missing the vital LSD that the S1 came with. Other
points of concern are sloppy changes which could be the result of a slack linkage, plus
the synchro mesh isn’t adverse to a bit of stripping.

Suspension
The competition-derived set-up is more than adequate for fast road use, and
aftermarket stuff will detract from the car’s originality and value – unless that’s what
you want. Be cautious of cars that have been lowered too heavily, as their suspension
geometry will be out so much that the ride will be ruined and you’ll go through tyres
like you’re driving on broken glass.

Brakes
The Escort RS Turbo is prone to warping its discs. A lack of feel through the pedal is
not unusual, but watch for shuddering through the steering wheel.

Interior
Shabby Recaros are a big turn off. Getting replacement trim is expensive and timeconsuming
(If you can find any !!!). But if you’re angling for a full leather retrim it’s
not going to bother you that much – of course, you don’t want to tell the person
selling the car this. Also check the carpets...a sure tell-tale sign if the mileage matches
the condition etc. This part is quite often missed by people when “tidying” the car for
sale.


Below Ł2000
Look carefully at cars in this price range. They will need a lot of tidying and quite a
bit of money spent on them. You could end up with a bargain or a complete rust
bucket. Also look out for fakes…if in doubt, double check the chassis numbers and
contact the RS Owners Club. They can verify if its real or not.

Ł2000 – 3000
Spend this kind of money and you’ll have a good example on the drive. It’ll be
straight and honest, but don’t expect it to win any awards. There’s likely to be a fair
few miles and owners on the logbook too. Basically, it’ll be a good used buy that
looks respectable and drives well.

Ł4500+
Pay this money and you’ve every right to expect an excellent example in return. Cars
will be very clean with FSH, few owners and low mileage. Watch out for messed
around cars where the vendor’s trying hopelessly to get his money back. Concours
class winners are expected when you reach these prices upwards.

REMEMBER: THESE PRICES ARE JUST A GUIDLINE.



Biggest Rims
It is possible to fit quite large rims to the S1. 18’s have been done. However, this will
require some severe arch mods (inc, trimming of the kit). Your better off sticking to
the 15’s or going up one to 16’s. Just get the org. wheels refurbished or
polished…they look the biz.

Engine Tech
Ford took the 1600 CVH and bolted on its own KE-Jetronic fuel injection (unlike the
K-Jetronic found on the XR3i, on which it was based). A T3 blower and intercooler
were added and the internals of the engine beefed up to cope with the pressure of the
forced induction.

Price When New
Back in 1985 you were expected to part with Ł9,250 + Ł470 for the Custom Pack.

TIFF