Mike1

If this comes on intermittently and the pedal/braking feels fine is it more than likely to be one of the sensors? Only started doing it yesterday - fine on journey in this morning but came on again journey home today.

Is the only way to test them without a multimeter good old trial and error or is it more likely to be the front ones?
The rear ones look to be a bit of a faff according to the workshop manual.
Any cleaning tips for the sensors?
Also anyone know where the cheapest place to buy new ones is? I was going to get a spare front and back one (if they are different front and back ) or are they handed as well? That way at least I know the sensor should be good.
Is any old whell bearing grease suitable for re-packing them or any special tips?

Done a search on this but not a lot of info

Any advice welcome

Cheers

Mike

CosKev3

Pretty sure there not handed m8,but different front to back

Your pretty lucky if you get them out without them breaking though

Easy enough to remove as long as they ain't rusted in

Think they are around the £80 mark from Frauds

SPADGE

Check the brake fluid level and all connections to the res as these all affect the lights (diodes)
Next port of call is the connectors to the sensors on either side inner wing as these get damp and start making a bad connection.
Failing that the sensors could be fooked but i would try all of the above 1st mate
Spadge...

Mike1

Cheers for the fast responses chaps - most excellent

Brake fluid level seems fine but I shall check the sensor connectors on inner wing next ( cheers Spadge ) and to the reservoir.

It says in the manual to unclip the loom before messing with the sensors - does that apply even if the ignition is off?

Are 2nd hand sensors probably OK ( if intact ) or are they so delicate that new is the best way forward?

Thanks for all help

CosKev3

Would think that a good second hand set would be ok m8

Try someone off here thats breaking a Saph,or one of the RS breakers,they won't rip you off

SPADGE

Think i have some sensors somewhere
Fords want about 50+ quid each for them

CosKev3

Priced one for old 4x4 couple years back,£72+VAT

SPADGE

Yeah now you mention it i bought a set for the 3 door i built and they were about £240 with my old mans Ford discount deducted

Mike1

Well, the little chap has gone to sleep now so I'm off outside to check all the connections and stuff.
If that doesn't cure it, 2nd hand sensors it is!!

Mike1

Oh well, doesn't seem to be the connections - I shall get some sensors and try a wheel at a time

KSA-Cossie

iTrader: (4)

Good luck m8.

Mike1

Just been reading a bit more about this problem.
If the wiring to the reservoir cap is bent, I hear this can cause the light to come on as well? ( as per Spadge's post ). When I was trying car late last night light now seems to come on with ignition and not go off at all. Pump seems to prime OK and go off ok but could it be not building enough pressure or does it run till pressure limit is achieved?

If it's a wheel sensor problem would the light come on with the ignition and not go off again OR would it only come on after the car had started moving?

What I am trying to say is that if the light comes on when the car is not moving does it point to a problem OTHER than a wheel sensor

richm

if the light is on at standstill it could still be a sensor, but if so it implies that the sensor circuit continuity is bad - either the sensor is damaged, wire is broken or bad connection. If the pump runs but eventually stops, it's pretty certain the pressure switch etc is working ok.
But it does sound like you have a circuit continuity problem with a sensor or reservoir connections.

daz1968

Sensors are easy to test with a meter, just un plug them and check with multimeter if open circuit they are no good, I had problems a few years ago and found that mine was a n/s front sensor using the above method, If sensors are ok then get a wiring diagram and check wiring to ecu. No use just changing sensors for the sake of it.

Mike1

OK, cheers for the info Richm - I will try cleaning all the wheel sensors for my first attempt though - going to wait till my spare ones come tomorrow just in case I do break one whilst I'm removing one.
I presume if the reservoir cap wiring is broken it's a re-wiring job back to the loom or is there a connector somewhere back in the depths so I can just buy that length - doesn't seem much spare wiring to play with to the reservoir cap as it is looped at a tight 180 degree as it is?

richm

If you check continuity/resistance of sensors with a meter, also check from the ECU connector, this will then include all the wiring to the sensors. Sensor wires are easy to spot in the ECU connector, they are four screened cables, green wires from memory.