Rev counter/ temp gauge/battery light
21-08-2016, 04:44 PM
#1
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Thread Starter
Rev counter/ temp gauge/battery light
Took my car out today to a local show, first time I've used it since ford fair two weeks ago. Pulled up at a petrol station got money out cash point drove up road and noticed the Rev counter and temp gauge stopped working and the battery light came on. They were working until I stopped. The car has a secs monitor fitted and battery is stating over 13 volts on that. Also **alarm*** keeps appearing intermittently on the secs monitor when changing displays.
Checked fuses when I got home all seem fine. I have another car show next Saturday don't want to pull the instrument binnacle out and inspect in case plus I won't have a lot of time prior to next weekends show.
The car is kept on a trickle charger every night when not in use however last night after I washed it before the show today I forgot to connect it back up!
Any solutions/ advice would be greatly appreciated
The car is a facelift sapphire 4x4
Thanks
Matthew
Checked fuses when I got home all seem fine. I have another car show next Saturday don't want to pull the instrument binnacle out and inspect in case plus I won't have a lot of time prior to next weekends show.
The car is kept on a trickle charger every night when not in use however last night after I washed it before the show today I forgot to connect it back up!
Any solutions/ advice would be greatly appreciated
The car is a facelift sapphire 4x4
Thanks
Matthew
26-08-2016, 02:16 PM
#3
Regular Contributor
Thread Starter
I started the car up again and the battery has now dropped to 11.4 volts. The battery light is still on. Symptoms show alternator on its way out?
26-08-2016, 04:05 PM
#4
Hi,
It could be the alternator or possibly the ignition power supply to the dash as you're loosing the rev counter too.
Have you got a test light (bulb type)?
If so disconnect the small wire from the back of the alternator, usually blue, then connect the test light to the alternator terminal and the other end to the battery positive. The test light is now the battery light and you can test the alternator and charging voltage.
Cheers,
Gavin
It could be the alternator or possibly the ignition power supply to the dash as you're loosing the rev counter too.
Have you got a test light (bulb type)?
If so disconnect the small wire from the back of the alternator, usually blue, then connect the test light to the alternator terminal and the other end to the battery positive. The test light is now the battery light and you can test the alternator and charging voltage.
Cheers,
Gavin
31-08-2016, 06:22 PM
#5
Hi,
It could be the alternator or possibly the ignition power supply to the dash as you're loosing the rev counter too.
Have you got a test light (bulb type)?
If so disconnect the small wire from the back of the alternator, usually blue, then connect the test light to the alternator terminal and the other end to the battery positive. The test light is now the battery light and you can test the alternator and charging voltage.
Cheers,
Gavin
It could be the alternator or possibly the ignition power supply to the dash as you're loosing the rev counter too.
Have you got a test light (bulb type)?
If so disconnect the small wire from the back of the alternator, usually blue, then connect the test light to the alternator terminal and the other end to the battery positive. The test light is now the battery light and you can test the alternator and charging voltage.
Cheers,
Gavin
But yes, it sounds like the cluster has no power supply, the fact the WL works shows it's connection to be fine.
Martin
31-08-2016, 06:43 PM
#6
Regular Contributor
Thread Starter
The indicators and warning lights are working, I've removed the alternator and took it somewhere to get refurbished getting it back tomorrow so once refitted will see if the problem has gone away.
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01-09-2016, 06:48 PM
#8
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Spoken to the place where I've taken my alternator and they've said when tested the diodes have failed so they've reconditioned it and hopefully this will cure my problems.
05-09-2016, 05:57 PM
#10
Regular Contributor
Thread Starter
Alternator now back in after repair and car still has same symptoms as before so I've wasted money on getting that reconditioned. Completely at a loss, maybe replace the battery?
11-09-2016, 07:03 AM
#13
Hi,
At this point I'd say take the cluster out and check for an ignition feed to the plug and visually inspect the printed circuit on the back of the cluster too.
It could be possible the alternator fault has damaged it?
Cheers,
Gavin
At this point I'd say take the cluster out and check for an ignition feed to the plug and visually inspect the printed circuit on the back of the cluster too.
It could be possible the alternator fault has damaged it?
Cheers,
Gavin
11-09-2016, 07:37 AM
#14
I had similar problems at one point. checked fuses, wiring, dash.... everything. only to find out that when I checked fuses I just looked from the side to see if it was blown,not realising that it actually was blown but at an angle so I had to look very very carefully to see it was blown. had me stumbled for quite a while until I found out... just an idea
17-09-2016, 12:04 AM
#15
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Thread Starter
Think I may have finally got somewhere, I checked fuse 22 again and a 7.5 amp fuse was in there and it should be a 4 amp. Changed it and all the warning lights are now on apart from the oil light but I have an aftermarket pressure gauge fitted by a previous owner so has done away with oil light. Rev counter is now also working. Will take it for a drive and monitor the situation. Might check the wires in the back of the alternator and wire going to the battery. If the fuse blows again I must have a short somewhere. Battery level is now 13.7v
17-09-2016, 08:23 AM
#16
Think I may have finally got somewhere, I checked fuse 22 again and a 7.5 amp fuse was in there and it should be a 4 amp. Changed it and all the warning lights are now on apart from the oil light but I have an aftermarket pressure gauge fitted by a previous owner so has done away with oil light. Rev counter is now also working. Will take it for a drive and monitor the situation. Might check the wires in the back of the alternator and wire going to the battery. If the fuse blows again I must have a short somewhere. Battery level is now 13.7v
Martin
10-12-2016, 09:03 PM
#19
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Thread Starter
Just thought I'd update this thread, the car still has the same issue fuse 22 blows every time I drive the car, even backing it out the garage. Alternator has been reconditioned, I'm getting 13.9 volts on the battery, today I took the instrument panel out just to check for any loose connections all seemed good, started it up again with the panel out and the Rev counter and temp gauge work also when ignition is on I get handbrake light, battery light. The only light not working is the oil light as an aftermarket oil pressure gauge is fitted. I know these old taxis are a hobby but I'm losing patience and love for the old girl.
Any ideas?
Any ideas?
11-12-2016, 07:43 PM
#23
Matty
You will have a battery feed to the battery warning light which also supplies power to gauges other side of the light goes to alternator which is the blue wire. Check all this is correct.
Also check nothing has been linked into this circuit causing issues.
You will have a battery feed to the battery warning light which also supplies power to gauges other side of the light goes to alternator which is the blue wire. Check all this is correct.
Also check nothing has been linked into this circuit causing issues.
08-04-2018, 04:53 PM
#25
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Did you ever get this issue sorted. I'm having the exact problems with mine. No warning lights no rev no temp gauge. Fuse 22 seems to be fine and I have replaced the wire to the back of the alternator. Can anyone help please?
08-04-2018, 05:29 PM
#26
Do you have power with the ignition on at one of the fuse terminals? if so then the rest of the wiring being well, with the fuse replaced power will reach the cluster.
You will then need to remove the cluster and verify power.
It's possible the cluster is faulty (i.e. bad PCB track) which can easily be repaired.
Martin
08-04-2018, 06:23 PM
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I assume I must have power to the dash as it still lights up and the fuel gauge still has power to it. Indicators are working but I can see that they are completely separate live to the rest
no warning lights come on anymore with the ignition.
I went for a drive today to see if anything would come back to life as old ford seem to do and the battery light came on. I changed the wire on the
back of the alternator as it was pretty worn.
it has a new battery which is charging fine
no warning lights come on anymore with the ignition.
I went for a drive today to see if anything would come back to life as old ford seem to do and the battery light came on. I changed the wire on the
back of the alternator as it was pretty worn.
it has a new battery which is charging fine
08-04-2018, 07:02 PM
#28
It's charging because the alternator is being revved enough to self-excite, hence the WL illuminating.
The reason it does so is because there is a potential difference (not being an old Ford).
That is to say, two lives extinguish the light. As you have no power to it, what it happening is only one side (from the alternator) has power and the other is a ground. This is the exact reverse of the indication of no charge when working correctly.
The fuel gauge is not conventional (i.e. when switched off the gauge does not drop) and the illumination/panel lights power is from the lighting circuit, so as I say the issue is no power.
Martin
The reason it does so is because there is a potential difference (not being an old Ford).
That is to say, two lives extinguish the light. As you have no power to it, what it happening is only one side (from the alternator) has power and the other is a ground. This is the exact reverse of the indication of no charge when working correctly.
The fuel gauge is not conventional (i.e. when switched off the gauge does not drop) and the illumination/panel lights power is from the lighting circuit, so as I say the issue is no power.
Martin
08-04-2018, 07:17 PM
#29
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I think we have our wires crossed. I went for a drive to see if the gauges would start working. Not the warning lights. I've had lots of old Ford's and electrics seem to come and go sometimes
I familiar with how the cluster works and see how certain things link
I have just checked again for a live at fuse 22 and do have it. But the only live I have to the cluster is the green wire going to the rev counter only. No live to the warning lights
I familiar with how the cluster works and see how certain things link
I have just checked again for a live at fuse 22 and do have it. But the only live I have to the cluster is the green wire going to the rev counter only. No live to the warning lights
08-04-2018, 09:12 PM
#30
I understood what you said, I explained why the ignition WL you mentioned illuminated.
The green wire is the earth for the rev counter. You should have power on one of those wires, I don't know which without referencing a diagram.
The blue wire is a common issue as it (along with the heavy duty cable) gets cooked by the turbo. It should be rewired as a spur or similar to the original, as it also powers the heated screen relay.
Have you tried replacing the fuse, also check the terminals are clean, this is looking like a potential wiring issue.
Martin
The green wire is the earth for the rev counter. You should have power on one of those wires, I don't know which without referencing a diagram.
The blue wire is a common issue as it (along with the heavy duty cable) gets cooked by the turbo. It should be rewired as a spur or similar to the original, as it also powers the heated screen relay.
Have you tried replacing the fuse, also check the terminals are clean, this is looking like a potential wiring issue.
Martin
08-04-2018, 09:36 PM
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The blue wire did feel pretty cooked to be honest. So im gladed I changed it after what you have told me.
the black and yellow wire is the live to the cluster and I'm asumming somewhere along that wire between the cluster and fuse box is the problem.
does the live wire run straight to 22 do you know?
I've tried another fuse and have the terminals a spray with some contact spray.
thank you very much with your help with this Martin. Very much appreciated
the black and yellow wire is the live to the cluster and I'm asumming somewhere along that wire between the cluster and fuse box is the problem.
does the live wire run straight to 22 do you know?
I've tried another fuse and have the terminals a spray with some contact spray.
thank you very much with your help with this Martin. Very much appreciated
09-04-2018, 04:33 AM
#32
Regular Contributor
According to the attached diagram - yes it goes from fuse 22 to pin 2 of the instrument cluster plug (on a right hand drive car) via a soldered joint S-1041 located near the heated rear window switch. As you say the wire is black and yellow (SW-GE) David
09-04-2018, 09:54 AM
#33
A switched live goes to one terminal and then via the fuse to the cluster.
What you should do is connect a section of wire from this pin to outside the car and then perform a continuity test between it and the fuse terminal, which would show a break.
I have also heard of wires coming off the back of the terminal itself.
Martin
What you should do is connect a section of wire from this pin to outside the car and then perform a continuity test between it and the fuse terminal, which would show a break.
I have also heard of wires coming off the back of the terminal itself.
Martin
11-04-2018, 12:01 PM
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Update.
I have ran a new wire and seems to have fixed that. Thanks again for your help Martin.
I do seem to have found another issue tho. My intermittent wiper only wipes the first time it is switched on. What would you check first?
I have ran a new wire and seems to have fixed that. Thanks again for your help Martin.
I do seem to have found another issue tho. My intermittent wiper only wipes the first time it is switched on. What would you check first?
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