2WD hydro clutch pic request
#4
Yes I'm running it!!
I used the land rover master and decided due to health reasons, and reliability to go with a concentric slave, I used a Chevy/Mustang T5 kit from the us, cost was £123, plus about £15 taxes(they mistakenly put down wrong value!!), just tweaking it here and there but done around 1000 miles with it now with no problem at all.
I didn't like the reyland kit the way it was attached using lugs, and the price, very expensive for what it is imo, so went my own way, I've plated each side of the bulkhead, just making a different part at the mo that will mean the cylinder gets a more direct push, slight angle at the mo, but mines adjustable for height and ratio/effort wise, so you can have it either easy and long stroke or shorter stroke but harder.
In my own case the pedal is set about 1 - 1 1/2" higher than the brake pedal due to my left leg being around 1 1/4" shorter and not being able to reach ha ha!!
tabetha
I used the land rover master and decided due to health reasons, and reliability to go with a concentric slave, I used a Chevy/Mustang T5 kit from the us, cost was £123, plus about £15 taxes(they mistakenly put down wrong value!!), just tweaking it here and there but done around 1000 miles with it now with no problem at all.
I didn't like the reyland kit the way it was attached using lugs, and the price, very expensive for what it is imo, so went my own way, I've plated each side of the bulkhead, just making a different part at the mo that will mean the cylinder gets a more direct push, slight angle at the mo, but mines adjustable for height and ratio/effort wise, so you can have it either easy and long stroke or shorter stroke but harder.
In my own case the pedal is set about 1 - 1 1/2" higher than the brake pedal due to my left leg being around 1 1/4" shorter and not being able to reach ha ha!!
tabetha
#7
tabetha
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#8
You could make a kit with the zetec slave for well under 1/2 the price burtons want even after machining costs.
tabetha
#9
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barnsey1971@aol.com for the pictures tabetha mate...
What slave cylinder did you use landrover 2A one
What slave cylinder did you use landrover 2A one
#10
barnsey1971@aol.com for the pictures tabetha mate...
What slave cylinder did you use landrover 2A one
What slave cylinder did you use landrover 2A one
tabetha
#12
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Phil i hope your on about the clutch mod and not tabethas problems, Tabetha it sounds like your going through hell mate, i know what you mean like im 41 and have joints that do what and go where they want through 35 years of running.. feel like 90 when i get up on a morning cant walk proper sometimes....
#13
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My bellhousing has had a bracket welded onto it and runs a slave cylinder on the outside of it which is easily accesible. Not sure how much clearance you would have on a Saph or a Escort with the standard tunnel.
Tabs setup seems like the way forward for normal installations.
Tabs setup seems like the way forward for normal installations.
#14
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Phil i hope your on about the clutch mod and not tabethas problems, Tabetha it sounds like your going through hell mate, i know what you mean like im 41 and have joints that do what and go where they want through 35 years of running.. feel like 90 when i get up on a morning cant walk proper sometimes....
cheers,
Phil
#16
Phil i hope your on about the clutch mod and not tabethas problems, Tabetha it sounds like your going through hell mate, i know what you mean like im 41 and have joints that do what and go where they want through 35 years of running.. feel like 90 when i get up on a morning cant walk proper sometimes....
tabetha
#17
On the 2wd I had to use the new nose/bearing part as it was a different diameter, just had to reduce the diameter of the flange part by 1.6mm to be a snug fit in the bell housing aperture, and take 10mm approx off the end.
I welded up the slot in the bell housing on mine, then drilled two holes for the pipes, feed and bleed(remote), I then made a little bracket that bolts under a bell housing to engine bolt above the starter for the bleed screw, the kit appears to suggest the bleed is fitted on the slave itself!!, but I didn't do it this way.
The actual slave is part of a kit made by RAM RACING, in the us, RAM 78130,78132, so some good comes from the us apart from all the TRACI LORDS videos I have!!
I have been out in the car today to drop off some rubbish down the local tip, old paint tins crap this crap that all went in the boot of the cossie, and a old plastic table and chairs etc in the boot, the hydro is a revelation compared with the std cable set up, where most of the effort is used to overcome cable binding, due to the teflon liner rucking up.
tabetha
#23
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Im going to go external slave as mines a race car and its going into a westfield anyway so i will make an inspection plate in the tunnel for repairs etc, not a big fan of internal slaves replaced to many over the years on daily drivers to be honest...
#25
Just looked a bit damp to me, maybe it's my eyes!!
I think your idea of the pull slave is a LOT better proposition, so long as the slave is supported etc and not left hanging in the air, using the oe cable hole as the abutment point for the slave, shouldn't be too hard to make a bracket for that area to act as steady.
tabetha
I think your idea of the pull slave is a LOT better proposition, so long as the slave is supported etc and not left hanging in the air, using the oe cable hole as the abutment point for the slave, shouldn't be too hard to make a bracket for that area to act as steady.
tabetha
#26
tabetha
#32
I also used a 0.75" master, with a universal type reservoir, mounted on firewall next to strut top.
I have piccies of the install if someone wants them email and to host them on here for others, just pm me.
The std pedal is used, but a hole drilled across it, got a detailed piccie of this as well as the adjuster I made up, done another one today for someone in oslo, I used a 5/16" rod end with l/h thread on it for the pedal end, if you use the original "bar" with clips that held the std locking pawl this is a very snug fit in the 5/16" rod end, even uses the same clips either side of the pedal to hold it to the pedal!!
tabetha
I have piccies of the install if someone wants them email and to host them on here for others, just pm me.
The std pedal is used, but a hole drilled across it, got a detailed piccie of this as well as the adjuster I made up, done another one today for someone in oslo, I used a 5/16" rod end with l/h thread on it for the pedal end, if you use the original "bar" with clips that held the std locking pawl this is a very snug fit in the 5/16" rod end, even uses the same clips either side of the pedal to hold it to the pedal!!
tabetha
#35
^^ same sort of thing as me, but I re-inforced both sides of the bulkhead with plates, but now side mounting push rod so it is a direct straight push, so it doesn't impart any sideways force.
tabetha
tabetha
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