do i have to take the rad out to get the bottom pulley off? or some light tapping to enough to free it?

also, do i need to remove the waterpump pulley to get the new belt in?

cheers, pete

 

also, how do you lock the engine?

to get that dam bottom pulley off!!!

 

Dont need to take the rad out, although it can help giving the wee bit extra room for seeing whats going on.
Pulley... some just slide on and off, others need gentle persuasion.
Waterpump pulley, nah, it doesnt need to come off, but its only 4 bolts if you wanted it out of the way.

 

struggling with the bottom pulley bolt at the mo!

 

Get her all set up to tdc,timing marks etc- car in gear and mate with foot on the brakes. if you dont have a battery wrench or air one.

 

Rad can stay put, as can rad fans if you have no issues, but often helpful to take rad fans out of the way for extra clearance, some pulleys are silly tight, some not.
Don't even think about lining up the marks at this point, as the marks will go way out of line after struggling with the pulley bolt.
Get the car on ramps, then put a good fitting socket on the pulley bolt, with a long breaker bar, or ratchet and tube, then as said put in gear(5th), then whack the breaker bar with a hammer to shock loose the pulley bolt.
Then get off pulley however it needs to be done, once nice and free refit partially on, line up marks tdc etc, and change belt as normal.
If the pulley is silly tight, use some valve grinding paste on the crank nose/pulley and lap it a bit, this removes the rust, and will after some 20-30 mins make it a better fit, you will of course need to drive out the woodruff key in order to be able to rotate the pulley on the crank nose, afterwards clean all paste, install key and put everything back.
tabetha

 

To tabetha, re-Timing belt...this week i saw another Thread hear re-Cam belt change....one chap said quote..
"Never take Pulley off" !, is it possible to fiddle the belt behind the Pulley... may be you saw his reply... just wondered what you thought.

 

It is possible to do yes, often resulting in the bending of the guide washer that sits between the belt and the pulley to keep the belt in line, imo damage this at your peril.
Personally I think it is a bodge that could have disastrous consequences, but each to their own, it can be done, I wouldn't.
tabetha

 

Yes i agree with your comments, just thought i would ask..really if you have heard of it, just done my belt... could not see any room to slide belt in without as you say Damage...Thanks Tabetha

 

wen a did mine a put a socket on a breaker bar on the bottom pully then flicked the key to turn the car over the breaker bar hit of the chassis leg and the bolt slackend off then a few chaps with a copper hammer the pully was off then just cleaned up the crank abit with sum sand paper then changed the belt and put the pully back on then put lock tight on the bolt and rumpped it up,

 

I would disconnect the coil lead then put a bar and socket on the pulley bolt.Rest the bar against the floor and flick the key ever so slighty to loosen the bolt.

 

If you torque to the correct figure, then lock tight is not needed.
tabetha

 

IIRC there are 4 holes with threads in the bottom pulley. Using these, I bolted some kind of self made clamp to the bottom pulley, then jammed a breaker bar into clamp while undoing the bottom pulley bolt.

Rad can stay on but you might want to loosen the fan bracket bolts which will give you just enough room to get the (very long) bottom pulley bolt out.

 

always use lock tight on a bottom pully bolt now after a did a belt on a renault nd the bolt came slack and the pully came off and belt nd fooked everyfin so just peice of mind on my part

 

I must admit i hate doing timing belts on cars. Its always in the back of mind that it could go wrong and damage the engine.