cosworth oils
#1
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hi this has probably been covered hundreds of times but seeing as the search bar doesnt seem to be working for me at the mo for whatever reason ill ask again lol!
basically ive got a 3door with 4x4 running gear and 4x4 engine (200 block etc..) its a standard engine internally running stage 3 with t3 ,500 cooler all the usuals and i was wondering what grade engine oil is best for this set up.
also was wondering what grade oils to use in front and rear diffs, it has 2wd rear diff btw
and also what oil to use in the gearbox and transfer box
cheers in advance
marc
basically ive got a 3door with 4x4 running gear and 4x4 engine (200 block etc..) its a standard engine internally running stage 3 with t3 ,500 cooler all the usuals and i was wondering what grade engine oil is best for this set up.
also was wondering what grade oils to use in front and rear diffs, it has 2wd rear diff btw
and also what oil to use in the gearbox and transfer box
cheers in advance
marc
#2
Last Time, Get Off PF FFS
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I use 0w 40 mobil 1. and I have no snags at all. By book and performance ford mag recommend 5w 50. But this oil is for high performance cars etc etc.
I had my diffs, gearbox and transfer box oil changed a couple of years ago and the garage used the same sort of stuff any other every day car would use on the gearbox, diff and transfer box, and again all has been fine.
I think the garage used Automatic gearbox fluid in the transfer box of the top of my head.
cheeRS
I had my diffs, gearbox and transfer box oil changed a couple of years ago and the garage used the same sort of stuff any other every day car would use on the gearbox, diff and transfer box, and again all has been fine.
I think the garage used Automatic gearbox fluid in the transfer box of the top of my head.
cheeRS
Last edited by kosienutter; 18-08-2010 at 10:00 AM.
#6
PassionFord Post Whore!!
iTrader: (1)
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You will get many responses based on opinion, the actual reccomendation is 5-30 but imo this is to thin. I use Silkolyne 10/50W, my reasoning is it won't cause much drag when cold and the 50 weight offers good protection when hot. Not had any problems with this.
Second that article, read that before is a good read.
The author of it (Oilman, AKA Opieoils) you will get a 10% discount as well for being a member on here if buying from him.
Martin
Second that article, read that before is a good read.
The author of it (Oilman, AKA Opieoils) you will get a 10% discount as well for being a member on here if buying from him.
Martin
#7
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i must thank you for putting me onto that article as my car has had castrol edge 10w-60 in it previously! now i know why my oil pressure was 60psi at idle lol im expecting that to drop a bit when i put the engine back in with all the new gaskets and some silkolene pro s 10w-50! think ill get the transmission oils of the oilman too
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#8
20K+ Super Poster.
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There is other factors not even mentioned by oilman though, as in real time tests.
Remember mobils old oil add a beemer driven non stop showed so, little wear after many thousands of miles, odd as most wear occurs when cold, which it never was of course.
A certain us university conducted oil tests long term over 400,000 miles on some engines, truck/hgv taxi's and anything in between, interesting reading, some "performance" oils were slated as they did not hold their viscosity mobil 1 was one such oil as was castrol rs from memory.
A major problem with the cossie is imo the low quantity of oil so it has a lot of work to do, heat transfer was not even mentioned, oil transfers at least as much heat as water cooling does, uni tests found on average engine oil was 30C hotter than the water/coolant temp.
I used 60 weight oil in mine as it was so knackered, but also often 20W50 GRANVILLE oil, a MINERAL oil at that without any problems or undue wear, despite ragging the tits of it, but then by virtue of it's thirst for oil it was always new, so no problem.
I would use a good fully synthetic oil of a 50 weight in most, apart from running in of course then mineral 40 weight for me, for first 2K.
I'll be using SUNOCO RACING 20W50 as the oil also has a good detergent package, very important for road cars, as is getting the oil nice and hot every now and again to burn off dilutants/moisture in the oil.
I used to change my oil around every 12,000 and managed 200K on the engine before tear down.
I've gone for a bog standard chinese made oil pump for a pinto with a std 60 psi/ish pressure, the people I use use the same pumps on all their own supplied/built race pintos but each one is individually checked and as much as 50% of the pumps are rejected, due to not being good enough.
tabetha
Remember mobils old oil add a beemer driven non stop showed so, little wear after many thousands of miles, odd as most wear occurs when cold, which it never was of course.
A certain us university conducted oil tests long term over 400,000 miles on some engines, truck/hgv taxi's and anything in between, interesting reading, some "performance" oils were slated as they did not hold their viscosity mobil 1 was one such oil as was castrol rs from memory.
A major problem with the cossie is imo the low quantity of oil so it has a lot of work to do, heat transfer was not even mentioned, oil transfers at least as much heat as water cooling does, uni tests found on average engine oil was 30C hotter than the water/coolant temp.
I used 60 weight oil in mine as it was so knackered, but also often 20W50 GRANVILLE oil, a MINERAL oil at that without any problems or undue wear, despite ragging the tits of it, but then by virtue of it's thirst for oil it was always new, so no problem.
I would use a good fully synthetic oil of a 50 weight in most, apart from running in of course then mineral 40 weight for me, for first 2K.
I'll be using SUNOCO RACING 20W50 as the oil also has a good detergent package, very important for road cars, as is getting the oil nice and hot every now and again to burn off dilutants/moisture in the oil.
I used to change my oil around every 12,000 and managed 200K on the engine before tear down.
I've gone for a bog standard chinese made oil pump for a pinto with a std 60 psi/ish pressure, the people I use use the same pumps on all their own supplied/built race pintos but each one is individually checked and as much as 50% of the pumps are rejected, due to not being good enough.
tabetha
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