Hello,
for the 2wd engine with standard head bolts and std head gasket the 1st stage is 20-25Nm, 2nd stage 45-50Nm and third 170-180 degrees.
for the 4wd with standard head bolts and gasket the 1st stage is 45-50Nm, 2nd 180 +/- 10 degrees and 3rd stage 110Nm. Between the stages i have to wait 30min?

If i use a set of ARP main stud kit and cometic head gasket how these values change?
I would like to know also the combination std bolts and cometic gasket.

For you which is the best combination for 400-450bhp engine with max boost 1.8 - 1.9 bar of boost?

thanks

 

this is copied from the instructions you get with the arp kit, although i left mine overnight and then rechecked and retorqued as needed

1) To ensure proper thread engaement and accurate torque readings,
clean and re - tap, if necessary, ALL threads in the block.

2) Clean and insoect all hardware proir to installation. Look for obvious
defects or shipping damages, plus proper fit, length and dimension.

3) a. If cylinder head studs protude into water jacket, lubricate the block
threads of the studs with ARP THREAD SEALER.

b. If cylinder head studs protrude into blind hole, lubricate the threads,
nuts and washers with ARP THREAD LUBRICANT or 30wt oil.

c. Screw studs into block "HAND TIGHT ONLY" .

NOTE: LOCTITE MAY BE USEED IF A PERMANENT MOUNTING OF THE
STUDS IS PREFERRED. THE FASTENERS, HOWEVER MUST BE
TORQUED PRIOR TO THE LOCTITE SETTING UP.

4) Intsall cylinder heads and check for binding or misalignment.

5) ARP recommends using the ARP MOLY LUBRICANT or at the very least,
a good quality Moly Lubricant as opposed to motor oil. this is due to
higher friction on the studs aswell as inconsistances in the clamping
force of the fastners when moto oil ( or low quality lubricant) is used.

PRELOAD (TORQUE) RECOMMENDATIONS:

Torque values are based on 75% of fastners yield strength. Use the manufactuers torque sequence but do not use the engine manufacturers torque specs.

Torque the nuts to 81ft lbs for ARP MOLY ASSEMBLY LUBRICANT
( or thread sealer) or torque to 105 ft lbs with 30 wt motor oil.

 

With the ARP I torque mine to 120lbft, have no problems, and use 40 weight engine oil on threads.
tabetha

 

what gasket u use? you have 6 ARP or 10?

 

i used 10 with a cometic head gasket

i cannot stress enough, you must ensure the thread holes are completely clear, otherwise you risk cracking the engine block

 

for a 4x4 engine with cometic gasket ( 3 layer) and std bolts how many newtons is better?

 

I used the ARP stud and nut kit for the 2wd(10 studs) with a Yb 0611(group a) HG.
The "rest" period is 100% essential, torque up to max(with arp) then leave at least 4 hours, the retorque again.
tabetha

 

what do you mean retorque? and how is doing? unscrewing one by one the nuts? or check as it is?

 

retorque with the correct setting on the torque wrench after a few hours

you do not need to undo anything.

you wait for at least 4 hours and retorque/ re-check

 

can u get a stud/nut kit u dont have to machine the bock to fit? been told that u have to machine the block to fit them, also will std head bolts be ok for a cometic gasket prob runnin bout 350 brake?
cheers

 

the arp is a direct replacement for standard bolts and you dont need to modify the block

you only mod the block if you are long studding, plus you can only machine 200 blocks for long studs, not 205 blocks

at 350hp GENUINE standard head bolts are fine

 

ah i see so if im ordering a kit its the stud nut kit i need, never knew you couldnt use long studs on a 205 block cheers

 

yeah, its a stud & nut kit

but seriously, i would just stick to standard head bolts. There is alot of people who do not like arp as there has been lots of people splitting their blocks with arp.

if using arp you MUST ensure everything is 100% clean, all the thread and holes are cleaned 100% otherwise you might crack your block with arp's. I used arp's on mine but i was ultra carfeul when fitting and i spent many hours cleaning the block etc

 

cool, got a cometic h/gasket off ebay and got a set of head bolts but not sure if there genuine ford ones, got a weird name, should be ok i hope, id be spittin mad if i split the block after the money ive spent on this thing lol

 

Arp stud and nut kit doesn't pull threads or split blocks, bad workmanship does(and I've made many cock ups over the years)
The depth of each hole needs checking very carefully, and if necessary a few mm trimming off the end of the stud, all holes need tapping out and the old congealed oil getting out the bottom of the hole, just put in arp hand tight then slight nip with pliers that's all.
It is ABSOLUTELY VITAL the shoulder of the stud touches home on the block and that it is not resting/stopped going in further due to bottoming out, there is a tiny groove around each hole for the shoulder.
tabetha

 

On std bolts, you must use standar torque, they can snap if you over tight them

 

what the stages with arp ?