davecosworth

just changed the oil in the car and put valvoline 5-50 in it as what was recomened anyone used it b4 and what quantity thought it was a bit thin but what do you think ?

davecosworth

VALVOLINE RACING VR1 5w-50 Fully Synthetic Oil

this is the oil i used 4 ltrs with filter max on dip stick

pacwest

I put engine oil in my car.

Seriously, pick one you like and give 'er.

Toe Knee

iTrader: (2)

going by the manual its 3L without filter change and 3.4L with a filter change, personally use mobil1 15 50 in mine mate, wouldnt use 5w myself in my cossie.................

davecosworth

i was thinking it was a bit thin thats why i was asking

Mike1

I used to use the Castrol RS 10/60 ( now called Castrol Edge 10/60 ) - same as used in many E39 M5s.
Now I use the fully synth Silkolene Pro S 10w/50.
Both have done a good job for me

The Silkolene is supposed to be better at high temps according to Oilman ( Opie Oils ). He sells both but there seem to be more special offers on Silkolene

oilman

Its not too thin, it will be just fine. However next time there is better quality if you want it.

Cheers

Guy

tabetha

The 5W only means it is thinner at the cold temp test, also means it circulates quicker to protect the engnine than a thicker one of say 15W.
tabetha

pacwest

Pick an oil with a high zinc content if you have not cat on a car. Think something like Rotella-T. ZDDP (Zinc DialkylDithioPhosphate)is found in heavier duty oils.

Remember that your engine was designed in the Mid 80s. Oil has changed a lot. Buying what is fancy looking or what the telly says is good might not be for your motor.

I'm currently breaking in an engine on crap oil. Plain old 10w30. When I get this 2.3 Lima engine seated nicely I'll switch to Rotella-T or Delvac. My car has flat tappets. Sure the cossie engine doesn't but remember when it was made and what ZDDP levels were back then.

Or just throw any old oil in there and have at it.

oilman

The whole ZDDP thing seems to be getting a bit silly. We've spoken to may people about it and here are the comments of John Rowland of Fuchs Silkolene (when it comes to oil, if he doesn't know it, it isn't worth knowing)

This fuss over ‘zinc’ is similar to the ‘lead-free’ panic of the late 1990s. I attempted to calm everyone down regarding ‘lead’ with a series of ‘Bulletin of the Morgan 3-Wheeler Club’ articles (widely circulated!) which I hope had some effect. Anyway, I’ve had no trouble with lead-free in my (unmodified) engines, and neither has anybody else as far as I know; unfortunately far too many valuable engines were vandalised by the fitting of unnecessary valve seat inserts. I am now trying to do likewise and defuse the damp squib which is the ‘zinc’ controversy, hopefully before anybody starts vandalising again!

The attachments (and attachments to attachments!) explain it all several times over, but it is worth stressing one or two points:
1) When you look at a technical spec of an oil, there are the contents (often in ppm) of various elements quoted, such as phosphorus, sulphur, calcium, zinc, magnesium etc. These are measured by flame or plasma spectrographs which break down the very large, complex organic molecules containing these elements, so that the emission or absorption spectra of the elements can be detected. (When I use the words ‘organic’ and ‘elements’ I am using them in the correct, chemical sense!) THE PURE ELEMENTS DO NOT EXIST IN THE ACTUAL OIL; it is the complex oil-soluble molecules which do the anti-wear, detergency, antioxidant activity etc.
2) In oil, zinc is a component of an anti-wear/antioxidant compound, ZDDP, zinc dialkyl di-thio phosphate. It works because of the phosphate component (containing phosphorus) and the ‘thio’ (sulphur) component. The zinc has no effect on the engine; it just holds the ZDDP molecule together! (Rather amusing really; everybody’s worrying about the inert bit!)
3) So……if anybody suggests boosting zinc with zinc pellets or whatever, this will be utterly ineffective, and the pellets/gadget/magic zincerator should be inserted in the most sensitive orifice of the vendor. (Remember the moronic Broquet tin pellets which ‘prevented’ valve seat trouble during the ‘lead-free’ panic?!) In fact, the zinc in ZDDP is a pain. When ZDDP burns (in engines that use oil, and they all do, to a greater or lesser extent) the ZDDP decomposes to leave white zinc oxide, a refractory ceramic-like deposit that acts as a ‘glow plug’ and initiates pre-ignition. So, very high zinc oils are NOT a good idea….USA web-sites please note.
4) ZDDP is effective and cheap. It is possible to make a zinc-free engine oil with excellent anti-wear /antioxidant performance….at a price. They already exist, for piston aero engines, where high oil consumption leads to pre-ignition thanks to zinc oxide deposits. I’d be only too happy to use such an oil in my ’34 990cc Matchless V-twin…….but I will not have to! There will be oils with more than adequate ZDDP contents around for the next 50 years at least.

Yours sincerely, John Rowland (R & D Dept.)

pacwest

True, but I'm speaking from slider cam experience where we can wear out a cam in 30K miles on the Lima engine with low zinc oils. Put a damper on it if you will but the 2.3 community (turboford.org) has a lot of proof for zinc saving mid 80's turbo engines from premature wear.

Yes, it is different from the cossie direct bucket action, but I'd like to point out that if you are going to be anal about your oil, select one that suits the motors, not what numbers are on it or if that fancy rally car has stickers on it advertising the latest blend.

Toe Knee

iTrader: (2)

so whats the best reccomended in a cossie generally then?! is the 15w 50 a good one to use or would i/we be better with a different viscosity?!

oilman

Pacwest, I've written to John to get his comments before I reply.

Toe Knee,

http://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-659-10w-50.aspx

Both are really good oils, absolute top of the range ones, so go with any brand preference you have.

Toe Knee

iTrader: (2)

thanks for that, so i'd be better with them than the mobil1 15 50 im using at the moment then?! other reason for using it is halfords etc sell it so its easy to get hold of it, but obviously want the best oil in it really.

pacwest, dont forget were not in the US, dont think ive heard of the ones u listed being for sale over here!!

oilman

Yes those two oils are the next step above the Mobil 1. The Mobil 1 is a good quality synthetic, the Silkolene and Millers are ester based synthetics, meaning they are better lubricants, more durable and more stable in harsh conditions. They are also slightly thinner than a 15w-50 when cold so they give better cold start protection.

I didn't notice Pacwest is from Canada, but that may explain the reasoning if they have a similar attitude to oil as in the US, ie use basic cheap oils and replace on a very regular basis. It's odd in a way as some very good oils (Redline and Amsoil for starters) from the US, but they use very outdated oils instead.

Papillon

oilman, what do u think about the q8 formula f1 10w50? its what im using since i get it cheap.. would be nice to get an opinion from someone who knows.

oilman

Im not that familiar with it, not one ive had tested. But from what I hear it should be plenty good enough, and if you can get it cheap... All the better

Cheers

Guy

python9

i use mobil 1 0w-40

ajamesc

Thats too thin on both counts lol its only an old pinto 10w50 is best

python9

i have always used mobil 1 0-40 and have had no problems what so ever

oilman

Mobil 1 0w-40 is a very good oil, I doubt you would have any problems with it.

Cheers

Guy

turbo taylor

iTrader: (2)

im onto silkolene pro s 10w 50 now had the castrol 10 w 40 in for about 2 miles and thought fook it put in stuff thats a bit better

m7ck

i use to put CASTROL FORMULA RS 10W 60in my cos but this has been replaced now with CASTROL EDGE SPORT 10W 60 it is a fully synthetic oil
is the viscosity ok ?
thanks

oilman

Bit heavy unless oil temps are excessive, one of these would be better.

http://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-659-10w-50.aspx

Cheers
Guy