Chassis rail/beam pad thickness
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Chassis rail/beam pad thickness
I've got some bad rot I'm going to weld up behind the beam pad where the isolator goes.
Essentially I want to replace from the bolt hole to the upsweep curve. No biggie, I had planned this. Well I have to since there is no steel around half the pad/bolt hole for the isolator/bushing! My question is though how thick of steel was there stock? Not much left for me to go by!
Better to weld in one plate or two thinner ones? I can see some 12 gauge doubled up and gusseted looking quite habdy.
Essentially I want to replace from the bolt hole to the upsweep curve. No biggie, I had planned this. Well I have to since there is no steel around half the pad/bolt hole for the isolator/bushing! My question is though how thick of steel was there stock? Not much left for me to go by!
Better to weld in one plate or two thinner ones? I can see some 12 gauge doubled up and gusseted looking quite habdy.
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ouch thts nasty, good luck with sortin it, i had 1 side on mine done by a friend, i was so impressed with the job i paid him a bit more. He saved me a fortune and everything measured up spot on with 5mm sheet if i recall (not sure) full respect to you guys tht tackle this sorta thing.
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I ran into my own thread searching for something else and thought I'd add that I welded in 5/16 steel just fine recently. Welded up quite nicely with the double wall that exist from Ford. Laying two sets of beads with the mig then grinding them down resulted in a perfect fix. Flux core works great here.
Hopefully this can help someone else.
Hopefully this can help someone else.
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opposite lock (04-04-2016)
#16
when cutting out the fitting, cut a square around it that you are going to replace if possible and use it as a rough template so that you can drill a hole in the new metal in similar spot , for the thread fitting to fit through,
Sand off all spot welded metal on fitting so your left with the disc,
when you have your new piece ready to fit to chassis leg , drill 6 holes around the hole you cut out for fitting to spot weld,,
Now put the fitting into the repair piece dont weld in yet just let it sit in the hole
tack in your new metal, 4 tacks will be enough to hold,
Get your bracket that fits onto the body of the car and also holds the rear beam in place put in the two bolts that secure it to the car,
get a piece of pipe or use the centre pipe from your beam mount poly bush and screw the long bolt up through the pipe and screw it into the threaded fitting, this will give you the position in which the threaded fitting can be tacked using the 6 holes to spot weld into position,
Best of luck
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