Chassis rail/beam pad thickness
 

I've got some bad rot I'm going to weld up behind the beam pad where the isolator goes.

Essentially I want to replace from the bolt hole to the upsweep curve. No biggie, I had planned this. Well I have to since there is no steel around half the pad/bolt hole for the isolator/bushing! My question is though how thick of steel was there stock? Not much left for me to go by!

Better to weld in one plate or two thinner ones? I can see some 12 gauge doubled up and gusseted looking quite habdy.

http://www.jasonhollister.com/images...ff_under-7.jpg

I think I've answered my own question here but no takers as to an opposing opinion?

12 gauge sheet metal is 2.6568mm thick. Doubling/gussetts it will make 5mm of steel laminate.

I would of said more likely to be 14 gauge, but just repair as best you can, how you want to.
tabetha

sounds fairly good, bud.

ouch thts nasty, good luck with sortin it, i had 1 side on mine done by a friend, i was so impressed with the job i paid him a bit more. He saved me a fortune and everything measured up spot on with 5mm sheet if i recall (not sure) full respect to you guys tht tackle this sorta thing.

I ran into my own thread searching for something else and thought I'd add that I welded in 5/16 steel just fine recently. Welded up quite nicely with the double wall that exist from Ford. Laying two sets of beads with the mig then grinding them down resulted in a perfect fix. Flux core works great here.

Hopefully this can help someone else.

nice one pal , any pics?

any pics ? :clap:

I know its an old post but it woud be nice to see pics of the repair.

lol bit of an old thread! funny anough ive just done mine, i had to double skin it like the original but deffo alot stronger than it was;

before
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g2...me_t16/001.jpg

cut out
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g2...6/SNV31483.jpg
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g2...6/SNV31484.jpg
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g2...6/SNV31485.jpg

first skin
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g2...6/SNV31491.jpg

outter skin
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g2...6/SNV31492.jpg
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g2...6/SNV31493.jpg

ground down
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g2...6/SNV31494.jpg
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g2...6/SNV31495.jpg

is there not no repair panels to buy to repair this?

I did mine with 2mm think sheet. I'm not show and shine just wanted it fixed and you can't see it under the beam.

Attachment 20772

Attachment 20773


Attachment 20774


Attachment 20775

Yes, you can find chassis leg sections, I've just had mine done using the middle section of a new chassis leg.

When removing the rot where the beam sits how do you go about measurements for the beam as mines rotten.

usually you can leave the round section with the thread in,in place so the beam mount point doesn't move.

Steve

Hi. I have done a similar fix,
when cutting out the fitting, cut a square around it that you are going to replace if possible and use it as a rough template so that you can drill a hole in the new metal in similar spot , for the thread fitting to fit through,
Sand off all spot welded metal on fitting so your left with the disc,
when you have your new piece ready to fit to chassis leg , drill 6 holes around the hole you cut out for fitting to spot weld,,

Now put the fitting into the repair piece dont weld in yet just let it sit in the hole
tack in your new metal, 4 tacks will be enough to hold,
Get your bracket that fits onto the body of the car and also holds the rear beam in place put in the two bolts that secure it to the car,
get a piece of pipe or use the centre pipe from your beam mount poly bush and screw the long bolt up through the pipe and screw it into the threaded fitting, this will give you the position in which the threaded fitting can be tacked using the 6 holes to spot weld into position,

Best of luck