400hp from a t34.63?
#1
400hp from a t34.63?
Is it possible?
Could i get bd14 cams and sweedish plenum, 10mm spacer plate and a few more small bits and pieces to get 400bhp from a t34.63?
cheers
Could i get bd14 cams and sweedish plenum, 10mm spacer plate and a few more small bits and pieces to get 400bhp from a t34.63?
cheers
#4
ive got a t34.48 on mine. And after nms mapped it, he said it would be about 400bhp. Stage 3 spec with headwork,32psi spike and holds 28. But no one else seems to get this on .48? Not had it rr though.
Last edited by SelbyRST; 15-10-2009 at 03:10 PM.
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#11
sierra 2wd, std bottom. I get 406bhp and 520Nm with t34.48. polished head, big cooler(not rs500), 80mm custom exhaust, light aluminium propshaft, siemens'55, MSD chip. 2.3 bar peak, 2.0 bar at 6000revs and peak of power. after 6000 power and boost reduced.
#12
I had 406bhp and 410lb/ft on a harvey gibbs engine running a t34 with a 0.63 housing. Was running motorsport blues (400s) rs500, ported and polshed head, etc.
Turbo only lasted every 12-18months
Turbo only lasted every 12-18months
#13
cheers all
#15
The smaller the turbine housing the less lag it will have, all else being equal, the larger housings lose more off boost ability due to more lag, so when the power comes in there is more of a marked kick, as there is a larger power gap to make up, as it did not produce the goods to start with.
Fine on a 4wd but it's going to break traction so much easier on a 2wd, even the .48 in the wet is terrible if heavy footed.
As the end power(asked for) is basically the same, I don't see the point is losing the off boost ability.
There is a monstrous difference between .48 and .63 off boost, and so in everyday driving a .48 will be much livelier without trying and needing to drive it in the power band, like a type r, shit torque needs zillions of revs, shame as they're awsome cars.
Up to you what you prefer, the .63 will feel faster owing to a bigger kick, but by the time this happens(around 35 minutes later!!) the .48 car will be home for tea!!
I just think with the limited traction of 2wd versus 4wd less kick is better, you can concentrate on driving not watching the tacho and holding off for fear of a boost kick spinning into the nearest hedge, 380-390 very reliably on a .48, seems better than a 10bhp gain(asked for) with all the disadvantages, of a .63.
tabetha
Fine on a 4wd but it's going to break traction so much easier on a 2wd, even the .48 in the wet is terrible if heavy footed.
As the end power(asked for) is basically the same, I don't see the point is losing the off boost ability.
There is a monstrous difference between .48 and .63 off boost, and so in everyday driving a .48 will be much livelier without trying and needing to drive it in the power band, like a type r, shit torque needs zillions of revs, shame as they're awsome cars.
Up to you what you prefer, the .63 will feel faster owing to a bigger kick, but by the time this happens(around 35 minutes later!!) the .48 car will be home for tea!!
I just think with the limited traction of 2wd versus 4wd less kick is better, you can concentrate on driving not watching the tacho and holding off for fear of a boost kick spinning into the nearest hedge, 380-390 very reliably on a .48, seems better than a 10bhp gain(asked for) with all the disadvantages, of a .63.
tabetha
Last edited by tabetha; 16-10-2009 at 12:37 PM.
#18
At what rpm should a .63 hit full 2.3 bar spike? 4-4500?
my starlet was 4,000 on td04, and was going to be 5000-5500 on the td05 16g. i do love a bit of lag
Have to remember though, the car wont be on boost every day , im having a msd live map so hopefully return good mpg off boost too.
Last edited by crumpet; 16-10-2009 at 02:40 PM.
#22
#23
top one, dosnt come in too hard just pulls from 3 to 7000 soo well, properly nice road car,
bottom one i dont know was just one we did on the dyno never got to go in the car i guess it would come in pretty strong,
spec wise, its something a bit different lol
bottom one i dont know was just one we did on the dyno never got to go in the car i guess it would come in pretty strong,
spec wise, its something a bit different lol
#29
easily, as above just done 395 on a 48, dont think your gonna struggle
dont need to touch the head, inlet cam, injectors, chip, and tbh, your pretty much there, put a group a head gasket on there whilst your at it, dependand on whos chip you may need the compression changing a little
but i say this loads, if your gonna do it, dont ask on forums, go to the tuner you want to use and do exactly what they reccomend and use their chip other wise its not gonna work, unless you have a live map ofcourse !
dont need to touch the head, inlet cam, injectors, chip, and tbh, your pretty much there, put a group a head gasket on there whilst your at it, dependand on whos chip you may need the compression changing a little
but i say this loads, if your gonna do it, dont ask on forums, go to the tuner you want to use and do exactly what they reccomend and use their chip other wise its not gonna work, unless you have a live map ofcourse !
#30
Don't bother with a group a head gasket mines just destroyed one, pay the extra and get a 4 layer mountune 1 instead, thats the advice I've been given from the boys in the know and have just ordered one.
#31
only reason i say that is barry asked about 350, for pushing 400 or there abouts i agree
#32
yea i think cams will help...Anyway im settling on a .63, i hate turbos which are instant and dont give you a lovely feeling of nothing then....BANG
Also... i thought diamond cut lattices on a orange lense'd low saph would look mint... until i saw yours on those mo's...
i was talking to jb fletch last night, and he said to get a ybo611 is it? these good i take it? or should i get a WRC
Last edited by crumpet; 16-10-2009 at 10:31 PM.
#33
yea i think cams will help...Anyway im settling on a .63, i hate turbos which are instant and dont give you a lovely feeling of nothing then....BANG
Also... i thought diamond cut lattices on a orange lense'd low saph would look mint... until i saw yours on those mo's...
i was talking to jb fletch last night, and he said to get a ybo611 is it? these good i take it? or should i get a WRC
Also... i thought diamond cut lattices on a orange lense'd low saph would look mint... until i saw yours on those mo's...
i was talking to jb fletch last night, and he said to get a ybo611 is it? these good i take it? or should i get a WRC
#34
seriously pay the extra for a 4 layer not a 3 layer if your going for a fully blown t34 it will be better in the long run, mine was a 3 layer wrc one that has blown and mine is long studded aswell. I have just paid Ł150 for the mountune 4 layer job these are widely used on 600bhp plus engines.
#35
Sound fella's... Am on it like paint on a car bonnet.. Wrc 4 layer it tis
Right, am gonna be a bit of a thick twat now.. my heads been fucked about all day with breakin my car for spares an all... What cams would be best for my setup...
Bd10 inlet and bd14 exhaust? are they simples to change? dont i need to take them out to remove the headanyway?
Whats the difference.. bd16 open valves longer?
Im scared about hitting a valve on my piston!... im used to non interference heads! lol...
how hard are the yb to time up?
much love for answering these questions btw
Right, am gonna be a bit of a thick twat now.. my heads been fucked about all day with breakin my car for spares an all... What cams would be best for my setup...
Bd10 inlet and bd14 exhaust? are they simples to change? dont i need to take them out to remove the headanyway?
Whats the difference.. bd16 open valves longer?
Im scared about hitting a valve on my piston!... im used to non interference heads! lol...
how hard are the yb to time up?
much love for answering these questions btw
Last edited by crumpet; 16-10-2009 at 11:18 PM.
#38
peice of piss to time up!you want to able to fit bd16 on standard c/r cossies bd 14 are a no or very tight(can not remember) on non pocketed piston you would deffo need verniers !
standard cams are good for 400bhp mate!
standard cams are good for 400bhp mate!