martysmartie

iTrader: (1)

Hi,

My Saph turbo is poorly and needs a rebuild as it is burning huge amounts of oil when I ease off the gas. Has anyone got any recommendations as to company's for the rebuild in the South East area?

Also I have problem with my fans, I have rewired and it is a standard radiator but when they come on they will not switch off. I fitted a new standard fan switch recently as I have standard radiator but still problem persists. Radiator is not sluged up either. Only thing I can think is stat and switch are fighting with each other not sure whether is is 82 or 88 but don't really want to take out just to find out.

CheeRS,

Martin

KSA-Cossie

iTrader: (4)

Vince at CR turbos m8.

COCHYN

I 2nd that! Did an amzing job within 3 days on my old turbo

KSA-Cossie

iTrader: (4)

Mine was sent on the wednesday afternoon and was back by friday morning,top man and top company imo.

tabetha

CR is defo top notch company, maybe the relay is getting stuck, next time they come on and won't stop tap the relay, if they then stop renew relay, they can only stay going by receiving either switch signal from temp switch(very uncommon) or sticky relay(not uncommon), if they don't stop after flicking relay unplug connector from switch they will then stop, so it would be the switch keeping them on.
tabetha

martysmartie

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the reply's, thats what I have been doing lately unplugging the connector from the back of the switch and the fans stop so can't be relay problem, any other ideas?

Martin.

rs2klee

sounds like the switch in the rad, what temp is your gauge sitting at when the fans come on? if you have 82 switch the water probly not cooling down enough so the switch stays on! another thing, what coolant have you got? anti freeze etc.

tabetha

"if they don't stop after flicking relay unplug connector from switch they will then stop, so it would be the switch keeping them on"

tabetha

martysmartie

iTrader: (1)

Yes it is the switch as I have been unplugging to get them to go off, but I can't understand why the switch is keeping them on, as originally I relised the switch is culprit thats why I brought a new one and it's doing same thing and is why I asked in original post is there an easy way to find out which stat is installed without removing it?

The switch is the standard Ford switch so 88 degrees it closes, I brought this over the uprated one as I have standard radiator. The anti freeze is halfords own I changed with (Pink).

The gauge when car is up to temp is just above the m on the gauge and fans activate around the r mark I think and then wont go off again.

Only thing I can think it may be to do with stat?

Martin.

rs2klee

The rad you have in there maybe blocked, id take it out and make sure it does not back fill on itself, try flush it at least see if the water comes out as fast as you can put it in! or as you say the problem is the stat! re check your wiring!

martysmartie

iTrader: (1)

Last time I changed coolant it appeared to flush ok, also car never runs hot. Only thing I have thats maybe different to other people is I have my relay powered from SW on coil so the fans are under ignition control. Although really can't see this being problem as it's still getting 12V, all wiring is good as well as relay.

CheeRS,

Martin

tabetha

When you say they don't switch off how long do you let them have a chance to switch off, do you have the dreadful air deflector plate between rad and i/cooler they came with.
On a hot day with mine running this set up and perfect it could easily take 5-8 miles once they had come one for fan to go off(I use a "fan" light led).
It will be fine with either 82 or 88 stat, these do get sluggish but would be noticed on a a car as very long time to warm up, the WAHLA stat is the best, twice the cost but worth it.
Whereabouts in SE are you(pm if want), engine DIY on these is childs play, really has got to be one of the most simple engines to do.
Why have you got your relay connected to the SW on the coil, this is a big NO NO, so I would correct that now.
It is entirely possible still to be the relay, some are latchy(sticky), and only need the sligtest amount of current to flow to switch, some switches do leak a slight amount, noit saying this is your case, but I would correct the wiring SW first.
tabetha

martysmartie

iTrader: (1)

The relay power to the fans comes direct from the battery and the relay ground to ground on battery, it's just the relay is energised via the coil power supply, only reason it was done is give fans ignition control the guy who made the loom recommended. I guess it's bad as it's taking power from coil so you get weaker output? I will rewire for direct feed.

I will check the deflator plate haven't seen one before but never needed to touch anything like that before.

Today fans did actually switch off but still take ages, but I know they take a while, find when in traffic ques they stay on rather than cycle, if temp is brought down to M on gauge they switch off in ques but this only happened once when the fans first come on.

CheeRS,

Martin

tabetha

Different people do things a different way, but no way would I connect into a coil feed, cossies suffer enough misfires as it is due to poor parts/design, although convenient to switch from here there is no need, personally I would just have the relay wired with the fan switch with a permanent feed so it can run on after shut down, if this tiny amount of draw makes any difference to the car starting etc, then you have other major issues anyway, but as I say everyone is different.
Like you say the fans are pretty much on constant in traffic on a hot day, once on they certainly don't like to go off, I found exactly the same when I fitted the deflector plate, which runs from behind the bumper to the gap between the rad and intercooler on a std cossie, I didn't have one when I got my car and like things to look std/ish to a point, so fitted one.
As soon as the hot weather hit and it took 5-8miles of slow 50mph driving to put fans off,(as shown by my led) I removed it and junked it, wow what a difference it made, although now drawing heat into intercooler in traffic I reasoned no harm as it won't be doing any significant work in traffic anyway, and once on the move the flow of air through grille will cool as normal the intercooler.
As you say above your fans are going off you don't need to change anything if you don't want to, it's just I would not connect anything on the coil personally or have it ignition switched, as the water gets hotter after shut down due to absorbing heat from the engine, and having no rad air or water flow.
tabetha