tezmanian devil

iTrader: (8)

hi all,
i hope someone can help me

basically, i was driving the mrs to work and the car cut out, tried starting it again, and nothing, just crancked.

spoke to a wireing bloke on the phone, and he said check the feul pump switch thing under the spare wheel in the boot, checked that, and it started, but then cut out again... so i spoke to the guy again and he said check the relay and fuse for the pump, so i did that and sure enough, the fuse had blown, swopped that over for a new one, got 5 min's down the road and cut out again.
done the thing in the boot again and it worked, for another 5min's...

the switch on thing in the boot is bugger'd, so i chopped the wire's and put them together and taped them up and set off, but then the fuse blew again, so i replaced it for another new one... 5 time's lol but as soon as i turn the key they blow.???!

could this be down to the pump being naf, or do you reckon the wireing is shot?

any help on this would be great as my car is currently sitting on the side of a busy main road, right infront of a roundabout lol and i havnt got any one that can tow me

cozmeister

iTrader: (1)

If the fuse keeps blowing then the wiring is shorting somewhere, and the fuse is protecting the pump as it should. Safe to say it's shorting somewhere after the fuse.

Get the AA to tow it home

tezmanian devil

iTrader: (8)

right, ok, i'll have a butch and see if i can find anything.
hopfully it'll be something simple, already spent £600 on fixing it and i'v only been driving it for 2 week's nightmare!

clarke5700

if you want to get realy technical the fuse protects the battery

tabetha

If you want to get even more technical the fuse also protects the pump, as the stall current of the pump is above the fuse rating.
It's more likely from what you say a shagged pump, drawing too much current.
tabetha

tezmanian devil

iTrader: (8)

so you reckon the pump is naf?
i managed to get it home finally, ended up changing the fuse and relay, although it did blow a fuse once during the short drive back.

just to add to the matter, my rad's now started to leak lol anyone got a alloy rad for sale?

tabetha

If there is shorting on a live it would tend to blow instantly, a high load on the other hand will take longer to blow the fuse.
Most pumps fail to ingress of much/dirt/crap/rust from tank, and this tops them turning, or at least slows then down, but could if bad enough cause such a high demand, as it's trying to stall that the fuse blows.
A trick you could try is take the wires off the pump, and spin it backwards by swapping supply over, do it for about 10 seconds, this will often dislodge the shit, and you will hear the note of the pump changes when you reconnect the proper way, it would most likely be ok for a few miles after this, until it sucks crap up again.
I would check the wiring for shorts anyway, simply by with ignition off disconnect the LIVE at the pump and do a continuity test between this and earth, there should be none, it must be disconnected from pump though otherwise the live will have conitinuity to earth.
tabetha

tezmanian devil

iTrader: (8)

ok, i'll go get a multi metre and check the wireing.
i hope it isn't wireing at fault, i cant stand wireing.

thanx for all your help, hopfully be able to use it again soon