SUMP GASKET engine in car
#1
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SUMP GASKET engine in car
2wd sapph cos, got to do sump gasket, how easy with engine still in car?, only leaking a tiny bit so won't bother if too much hassle(yet).
Thanks
tabetha
Thanks
tabetha
#2
HI, Mate, its not too bad to do. Support engine from the top, disconnect steering shaft, remove starter, disconnect clutch cable, remove the brake flexi hoses from the crossmember, release the brackets holding the PAS cooling pipe, remove the crank sensor, drop the anti roll bar and finally undo the engine mounts and drop the crossmember down. This gives you enough room to drop the sump. Should only take 2 or 3 hours.
Cheers, Paul T.
Cheers, Paul T.
#3
Dont think i would want to do it again theres not a lot of space down there.
But i had to do it, i was changing the oil pump again
Having said that it didnt take to long
But i had to do it, i was changing the oil pump again
Having said that it didnt take to long
#6
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Thanks for the replies peeps.
I am most likely for now at least going to STEAM CLEAN the area then put 5910 all around the edge.
It annoys me as I never have any leaks not a drop as use 5910, got engines in cars done over 100,000 and no leaks with this stuff, it's amazing.
Does not sound too bad just a pain for a few minutes work all the prep/dismantling!!
thanks
tabetha
I am most likely for now at least going to STEAM CLEAN the area then put 5910 all around the edge.
It annoys me as I never have any leaks not a drop as use 5910, got engines in cars done over 100,000 and no leaks with this stuff, it's amazing.
Does not sound too bad just a pain for a few minutes work all the prep/dismantling!!
thanks
tabetha
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#8
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LOCTITE 5910 + 5900, the most awsome gasket sealant I have ever used.
Hard to get as not sold everywhere but well worth getting, it is a normal RTV but HIGH MODULOUS, have stuck sumps on with NO GASKET just the sealant, only hard bit is trying to get it off, spent next hour straightening the sump flange!!
tabetha
Hard to get as not sold everywhere but well worth getting, it is a normal RTV but HIGH MODULOUS, have stuck sumps on with NO GASKET just the sealant, only hard bit is trying to get it off, spent next hour straightening the sump flange!!
tabetha
#9
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Originally Posted by 402HAW
HI, Mate, its not too bad to do. Support engine from the top, disconnect steering shaft, remove starter, disconnect clutch cable, remove the brake flexi hoses from the crossmember, release the brackets holding the PAS cooling pipe, remove the crank sensor, drop the anti roll bar and finally undo the engine mounts and drop the crossmember down. This gives you enough room to drop the sump. Should only take 2 or 3 hours.
Cheers, Paul T.
Cheers, Paul T.
The exeact thing i would have said, i put a jack under the gearbox to lift the engine up some more too, the more room the better, i wouldnt like to do it again as i was lying in my street in the rain and shit, quite a dirty job.
A small oil leak from the sump isnt a big deal but when you needed an oil pump ( me ) its a must job
I must say im very pleased as i had a tiny leak my self which is now cleared and for the first time in a while my whole engine and sump are bone dry
Get the overalls on and tear into it tabs its great fun
#10
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Overalls, what are they don't wear them as can't get any size 68 fat git ones!!
Just done oil/filter on other halfs astra 1.4 auto, bloody sump is going rusty as all thre leaks stopped, since I did the gasket, I always use the sealant on the sump plug threads as well, it does not drip one single drop.
Going to have to paint the sump now.
I used the HALFORDS oil fully syn 10/w50, made it so much smoother, seems a very good oil, 10 litres@31.99 BOGOF at the mo.
tabetha
Just done oil/filter on other halfs astra 1.4 auto, bloody sump is going rusty as all thre leaks stopped, since I did the gasket, I always use the sealant on the sump plug threads as well, it does not drip one single drop.
Going to have to paint the sump now.
I used the HALFORDS oil fully syn 10/w50, made it so much smoother, seems a very good oil, 10 litres@31.99 BOGOF at the mo.
tabetha
#11
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mate was telling me about some form of oil additive that softens seals up again. he used it on his zafira & it cured the crank oil leak. not too sure myself about it & dont know the name yet. anybody else heard of this
#12
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It is called LECWEC, very good it is for a short time, then when they go again they flood out, does buy you some time though, only works on certain rubbers by causing swelling.
tabetha
tabetha
#14
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The problem with most (seal) leaks is the seals are not very good quality being made to a price rather than a quality.
Where ever you can use VITON as it is much more suited to HOT applications such as engines, normal oe seals last ok but VITON outlast them easily, but are MORE EXPENSIVE.
Bt the time I had bought 1 crank(front), 1 auxillary shaft, 2 x cam seals I had no change out of £45, but then this is roughly the cost of 5 litres of decent synthetic oil so worth it IMO.
tabetha
Where ever you can use VITON as it is much more suited to HOT applications such as engines, normal oe seals last ok but VITON outlast them easily, but are MORE EXPENSIVE.
Bt the time I had bought 1 crank(front), 1 auxillary shaft, 2 x cam seals I had no change out of £45, but then this is roughly the cost of 5 litres of decent synthetic oil so worth it IMO.
tabetha
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