bastard puma i bought weds evening has a slightly slipping clutch when you gun it!

is it straight forward to do, or are things i need to know prior to purchasing a clutch kit?

its a 51 plate if that makes any odds?

cheers all...

 

Did one a while back, only headache I had was the new slave cylinder leaked !

Apart from that was a few hours work on a ramp.

 

is it worth replacing the slave while its out too then?

its got 54k on it also.

and ill be on the drive, no luxurys like a ramp

 

did a puma as my first ever clutch, absolute piece of piss compared to some others, few hours in drive no prob, iirc dingbro did full clutch kit for 98.00

 

Your Puma still going mate? Mine too, rolling onto 106k

Did the clutch on mine last year, pretty straight forward, just niggly with the lack of space.

 

I was advised to do it as obviously its box out to change if it failed anytime after, typically I had to do the job twice anyway due to the new one that failed

 

Always worth doing the slave cyl when the box is out,saves the grief of having to strip the coont again

 

No point in not doing the slave cylinder when replacing clutch! Pretty straight forward to do though!

 

you should always replace the slave when doing the clutch. Just as you would replace the release bearing on a cable clutch.

 

I think you know what you forgot to do when buying this car,Fudgey boy!

PS: it was totally fine in my hands all the way home!

 

Just done one on a puma racing, very straight forward as far as clutch changes go. And yes, replace the slave at the same time. You'd always replace the release bearing on a normal clutch change and the fact the puma has a concentric slave (which incorporates the release bearing) means it's good practice to replace it.

Quick run down..

Battery off, inlet pipe and airbox out, unplug all loom plugs needed (self explanatory when you have battery out) clamp clutch hose and remove from slave, n/s wheel off, unbolt bottom ball joint (completely remove bolt) and drop down wishbone, remove inner large cv clip, pull driveshaft out of drive cup (which remains in gearbox) and it can be tucked into wheel arch out the way, unbolt gear linkages, support box on jack, unbolt gearbox mounts (top and bottom) then undo all the bolts round the bell housing, support engine on jack and let box down, jiggle box off, pull it out n/s frm underneath. Obviously then you'll see your concentric slave inside your bell housing on the box, it's a straight forward few 8mm bolts and simple swap with new. Then it's just a case of swapping clutch out and refitting everything.

Only annoying part of the job (and I did a KA the other week that was the same) is the bottom ball joint bolts seem to alwas be well seized in so make sure you've got a decent torx bit for this and just spend a bit of time with wd40 and working it back and forth.

Puma also has a sort of half shaft on o/s of gearbox and a bearing mount. You'll see what I mean and removal is easy but you'll loose a bit of fluid. When refitting don't try and get that side back in when fitting the box, just leave it out and fit the whole lot back together, then jack the o/s up and pull the bottom ball joint that side and get drive shaft out the way, refit inner shaft into box and put bearing bracket back on, then fit outer driveshaft into inner shaft cup and put that side back together.

Keep the brake fluid res well topped up when bleeding clutch.

 

cheers james.

i didnt know the bearing was part of the slave, will deffo change it as it rattles a bit.

pee vee, as you know i was not insured to drive it when we first got there, and i doubt they would have wanted to hang about till matey had phoned me from hic to insure it.

its only when you gun it, so ill take it easy till it stops raining lol

 

Wondering if you can help me, doing a clutch on my 1.6 Focus. I removed the passenger side drive shaft from the hub, gave it a yank expecting it to come out of the box, the joint was pulled out of the cup, and the rubber boot came off.

Where does the clip that's supposed to hold the joint into the cup go? I'll need to find it.

I want to remove the cup from the box as it makes it tighter for space to get the box in and out.

How do you remove it?

 

There is no clip mate,it's held on purely by the pressure of the shaft pushing against the bit that generally stays in the box,there should be a tri bearing arrangement on the end of the shaft.

By clip,I believe he means the metal cv gaiter clip.

Fudgey,the write up above is perfect but dont forget there's a tiny circlip thing that holds the hydraulic feed into the top of the box/release bearing.

You need two peeps to bleed it afterwards as well,easy enough job though,no subframe to worry about either.

 

Thanks for that, was thinking i'd lost/damaged bits and would need a new CV joint

 

cheers mate, i have some circlip pliars somewhere lol.

with regard to bleeding, how is that done lol? can it be done with a vac bleeder you use on a compressor? as i have one of those for doing brakes with.

 

mate, on most cv joints ie the splined bit that goes into the gearbox (diff) there is usually a spring clip, you need to prize that out before the joint will come out the box.

if you just yank on it, you will do as you did and pull the tri bearing out the joint.

there is nothing to physically hold that in place, other than once everything is bolted up it cant come out.

 

No, vaughant has it right mate, there is nothing holding the cv joint back (clips etc). As i stated in my first post, and vaughant says, the inner joint is just held in the cup by the fact it's attached through the hub and that is a fixed point on the wishbone. Remove the lower ball joint, undo the cv rubber boot clip and it just pulls out easily, nothing clipping or holding it in the cup.

Regarding the clip for the slave cylinder hose, it's just a sprung clip that you need to pull out with a small screwdriver, no circlip pliers needed. Just make sure you clamp the hose first. Bleeding with a vacuum pump is great, just make sure (as I said) you keep it properly topped up as it'll quickly reach a point it'll suck air from the fluid reservoir with a vacuum bleeder. I used a vacuum bleeder on this one I did and it struggled for a bit, so I gave it some decent pressure and it sucked out a load of white sludge and cleared it, pedal feels great now!

Oh, and just take a look at the gear linkage orientation when removing because fit it back slightly twisted and you'll not get all the gears (depending on which way it's twisted)

 

cheers mate, i usually scratch the gearbox bit in the goove of the clamp lol so i know where they go back to.

so does the clutch use the same reserviour as the brakes? tbh ive not looked under the bonnet, so dont know lol

i have some castrol srf brake fluid, and may bleed the whole lot if so (brakes and clutch)

 

Yeah, uses the same reservoir mate.

 

Yeah fudgey,it's the same res,you'll notice a pipe right at the top of res,thats effectively connected to the slave cylinder.

Blleding is simple enough,same as with brakes,the nipples next to the slave connection.a pressure bleed would be nice as there's not much access once everything goes back.