Just done one on a puma racing, very straight forward as far as clutch changes go. And yes, replace the slave at the same time. You'd always replace the release bearing on a normal clutch change and the fact the puma has a concentric slave (which incorporates the release bearing) means it's good practice to replace it.

Quick run down..

Battery off, inlet pipe and airbox out, unplug all loom plugs needed (self explanatory when you have battery out) clamp clutch hose and remove from slave, n/s wheel off, unbolt bottom ball joint (completely remove bolt) and drop down wishbone, remove inner large cv clip, pull driveshaft out of drive cup (which remains in gearbox) and it can be tucked into wheel arch out the way, unbolt gear linkages, support box on jack, unbolt gearbox mounts (top and bottom) then undo all the bolts round the bell housing, support engine on jack and let box down, jiggle box off, pull it out n/s frm underneath. Obviously then you'll see your concentric slave inside your bell housing on the box, it's a straight forward few 8mm bolts and simple swap with new. Then it's just a case of swapping clutch out and refitting everything.

Only annoying part of the job (and I did a KA the other week that was the same) is the bottom ball joint bolts seem to alwas be well seized in so make sure you've got a decent torx bit for this and just spend a bit of time with wd40 and working it back and forth.

Puma also has a sort of half shaft on o/s of gearbox and a bearing mount. You'll see what I mean and removal is easy but you'll loose a bit of fluid. When refitting don't try and get that side back in when fitting the box, just leave it out and fit the whole lot back together, then jack the o/s up and pull the bottom ball joint that side and get drive shaft out the way, refit inner shaft into box and put bearing bracket back on, then fit outer driveshaft into inner shaft cup and put that side back together.

Keep the brake fluid res well topped up when bleeding clutch.