Dead Cigarette Lighter 12v Socket Circuit
19-10-2018, 11:18 AM
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Dead Cigarette Lighter 12v Socket Circuit
Advice please - While 'splicing' in an additional 12v socket to the cigarette lighter feed (which is always live) I inadvertently bridged the two cables. Now the whole circuit is dead - that's both the front and rear 12v sockets. Checked the 15A fuse (#47 on a 2002 ST170) and it's fine but replaced it anyway just in case. Circuit is still dead and I've been unable to find any hidden in-line fuse. I ran a meter across the fuse pins in the fuse box and no 12v power there either (ignition on or off).Is there some other different (fused) live feed the cigarette lighter circuit is fed by - higher than 15 amps? I'm stuck 
19-10-2018, 11:28 AM
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I've got a manual for up to 2001 and the cig lighter is #46 15a AND there is another fuse, #7 40amp.
Check the low numbered high amp fuses in the Engine fuse box it may not be #7 but could be close.
Check the low numbered high amp fuses in the Engine fuse box it may not be #7 but could be close.
19-10-2018, 11:31 AM
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I did some googling and I think there is a 25 amp fuse number 59 for the book auxillary socket, I wonder if that may have blown?
And then fuse 39 which is 20 amps
If these numbers don't work it may be a year issue but have a look at the other possible fuses. If you disconnect the battery you can probably pull them all one by one but make sure you have the radio code
And then fuse 39 which is 20 amps
If these numbers don't work it may be a year issue but have a look at the other possible fuses. If you disconnect the battery you can probably pull them all one by one but make sure you have the radio code
19-10-2018, 12:08 PM
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Thanks guys. I have fuse #46 showing as ABS in the owners guide. Will definitely look at the low numbered high amp fuses just in case - wife has taken the car out for now so will check when back.
Fuse #39 and #59 good pointers and I will double check those. Hopefully there maybe a model crossover (Mk1 - Mk1.5) that the user guide conflicts with. We've had the car from brand new in 2002. The car was ordered in 2001 but delivered in 2002.
Fuse #39 and #59 good pointers and I will double check those. Hopefully there maybe a model crossover (Mk1 - Mk1.5) that the user guide conflicts with. We've had the car from brand new in 2002. The car was ordered in 2001 but delivered in 2002.
19-10-2018, 04:01 PM
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Thanks Richie, Not sure what you mean - single fuse F47 and F7? Both these are good.
I've now pulled all fuses (engine and central box) and all are good - everything else seems to work. Also checked for continuity from the F47 fuse pins to the cigar lighter T connector. Two cable colours; one Br/Y and one B. The Br/Y gives a buzz from one fuse pin whereas the Black cable gives nothing (either pin). Am I right in thinking both cables should show connected to the fuse or do I have this wrong - i.e. only the live feed through the fuse for one cable needed and the other being earthed? I might have my understanding all wrong [head scratch].
I've now pulled all fuses (engine and central box) and all are good - everything else seems to work. Also checked for continuity from the F47 fuse pins to the cigar lighter T connector. Two cable colours; one Br/Y and one B. The Br/Y gives a buzz from one fuse pin whereas the Black cable gives nothing (either pin). Am I right in thinking both cables should show connected to the fuse or do I have this wrong - i.e. only the live feed through the fuse for one cable needed and the other being earthed? I might have my understanding all wrong [head scratch].
19-10-2018, 04:26 PM
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Surely the others are just earths.
on a VW there are 5 main BIG fuses on a panel that sits on the battery, does the focus have an extra board under the bonnet that may have popped a Bigger flat bar fuse, I see you have written Engine and central box so assume these have checked out ok.
it is worth getting to the back of the lighter socket and running a new Earth to see if that does anything.
With a test light or tester Ted with one end on and earth and the other end poked in the hole where the fuse plugs in are both of the female parts that accept the fuse legs dead, if there is no love there then there must be another fuse blown.
on a VW there are 5 main BIG fuses on a panel that sits on the battery, does the focus have an extra board under the bonnet that may have popped a Bigger flat bar fuse, I see you have written Engine and central box so assume these have checked out ok.
it is worth getting to the back of the lighter socket and running a new Earth to see if that does anything.
With a test light or tester Ted with one end on and earth and the other end poked in the hole where the fuse plugs in are both of the female parts that accept the fuse legs dead, if there is no love there then there must be another fuse blown.
Last edited by Caddyshack; 19-10-2018 at 04:32 PM.
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19-10-2018, 05:16 PM
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Success! Removed the live supply to everything by disconnecting the battery. Ran continuity test from T connector to fuse holder and that worked. What I didn't do was the same for the black cable to ground. Just did that now and all good. Stupid moment of it not occurring to me that for the most part everything is earthed to complete a closed circuit to function at all. What did surprise me though is that only by disconnecting the battery then reconnecting everything was back to normal. Now wondering if shorting the circuit tripped something in a relay or some other logic box somewhere. Removing and then renergising the circuit performed some 'reset'. No idea but I'll take it.
19-10-2018, 05:22 PM
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Surely the others are just earths.
on a VW there are 5 main BIG fuses on a panel that sits on the battery, does the focus have an extra board under the bonnet that may have popped a Bigger flat bar fuse, I see you have written Engine and central box so assume these have checked out ok.
it is worth getting to the back of the lighter socket and running a new Earth to see if that does anything.
With a test light or tester Ted with one end on and earth and the other end poked in the hole where the fuse plugs in are both of the female parts that accept the fuse legs dead, if there is no love there then there must be another fuse blown.
on a VW there are 5 main BIG fuses on a panel that sits on the battery, does the focus have an extra board under the bonnet that may have popped a Bigger flat bar fuse, I see you have written Engine and central box so assume these have checked out ok.
it is worth getting to the back of the lighter socket and running a new Earth to see if that does anything.
With a test light or tester Ted with one end on and earth and the other end poked in the hole where the fuse plugs in are both of the female parts that accept the fuse legs dead, if there is no love there then there must be another fuse blown.
19-10-2018, 05:31 PM
#10
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Vehicle wiring products.
personally I would cut the cable then add in a heat shrink tube crimp with the extra wire.
personally I would cut the cable then add in a heat shrink tube crimp with the extra wire.
19-10-2018, 05:32 PM
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19-10-2018, 05:52 PM
#12
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http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.e...tap-connectors
Don't use the above, ever, anywhere, for any reason.
If anyone gives you any for free, throw them away, they are not doing it as a friendly gesture.
Sent to this earth by satan's worst enemy.
Don't use the above, ever, anywhere, for any reason.
If anyone gives you any for free, throw them away, they are not doing it as a friendly gesture.
Sent to this earth by satan's worst enemy.
Last edited by focusv8; 19-10-2018 at 05:54 PM.
19-10-2018, 06:01 PM
#13
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http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.e...tap-connectors
Don't use the above, ever, anywhere, for any reason.
If anyone gives you any for free, throw them away, they are not doing it as a friendly gesture.
Sent to this earth by satan's worst enemy.
Don't use the above, ever, anywhere, for any reason.
If anyone gives you any for free, throw them away, they are not doing it as a friendly gesture.
Sent to this earth by satan's worst enemy.
19-10-2018, 06:29 PM
#16
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I had seen these but worried that the solder needed a low melting point so as not to damage the heat shrink so Had not tried them.
19-10-2018, 08:48 PM
#17
You do need to practice with them, just enough heat to melt the solder and have the heat shrink squeeze it into the bare cables, but too much and it can burn the plastic sleeve.
I have used them to repair canbus looms on scissor lifts and cherry pickers and they make a great permanent water tight seal.
I have used them to repair canbus looms on scissor lifts and cherry pickers and they make a great permanent water tight seal.
Last edited by RichieST; 19-10-2018 at 09:03 PM.
20-10-2018, 10:46 AM
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You do need to practice with them, just enough heat to melt the solder and have the heat shrink squeeze it into the bare cables, but too much and it can burn the plastic sleeve.
I have used them to repair canbus looms on scissor lifts and cherry pickers and they make a great permanent water tight seal.
I have used them to repair canbus looms on scissor lifts and cherry pickers and they make a great permanent water tight seal.
20-10-2018, 10:55 AM
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Those Scotchlock connectors really that bad then? Just don't work or fall apart in use?
20-10-2018, 01:05 PM
#21
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Scotch locks give loose connections, it is a very weak joint and moves.
yes, just have two wires coming out one end and one going in.
yes, just have two wires coming out one end and one going in.
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