Focus RS MK1 Cooling system
Ok we all know that the FRS didnt come with a temp gauge and some of us run a scangauge II to keep an eye on things and upon reading other threads from this forum and others that the normal behavior is 112 celcius the fans come on cools back down to 104 c...all good all checked fine and dandy hunky dory .. blah blah.
Now...my question / query .....if and when installing a mechanical water temp gauge with sender in correct place - and looking at temp gauges online the all range from 80 c to 120 so when installed on the FRS , unlike say my Focus T250 Zetec turbo or anyother standard focus or modified, the temp needle stays in the middle right? even when booting it etc etc .., wouldnt the needle always be moving about ? between the temps ...with an aftermarket mech temp gauge?
Reason I ask i - i just drove 6 miles in London traffic which took two hours but my fan came on when i pulled up - normal in this weather? sorry many questions lol
Mapper says its normal so im happy with that - WHERE exactly is the correct place for a temp gauge sender for correct reading? cheers guys
Now...my question / query .....if and when installing a mechanical water temp gauge with sender in correct place - and looking at temp gauges online the all range from 80 c to 120 so when installed on the FRS , unlike say my Focus T250 Zetec turbo or anyother standard focus or modified, the temp needle stays in the middle right? even when booting it etc etc .., wouldnt the needle always be moving about ? between the temps ...with an aftermarket mech temp gauge?
Reason I ask i - i just drove 6 miles in London traffic which took two hours but my fan came on when i pulled up - normal in this weather? sorry many questions lol
Mapper says its normal so im happy with that - WHERE exactly is the correct place for a temp gauge sender for correct reading? cheers guys
Ive mounted mine in the back of the head. Between the coil and the thermostat sandwich plate.
1/8ntp
The temp should move about a bit. Oem is designed to always sit in the middle for piece of mind.
1/8ntp
The temp should move about a bit. Oem is designed to always sit in the middle for piece of mind.
^^^ That is a better solution than modifying a hard to replace Rs part as it's completely reversible.
As for mine, I've been busy so haven't had much time to play with it. I found my self down your way in a van the weekend before last buying another project. Got lost and ended up on the woolwich ferry in a Luton van lol.
As for mine, I've been busy so haven't had much time to play with it. I found my self down your way in a van the weekend before last buying another project. Got lost and ended up on the woolwich ferry in a Luton van lol.
Trending Topics
Right all sorted now -
Turbo coolant pipes/hoses were on the wrong way round - i didn't think it mattered -
Heater Matrix hoses , again same, Wrong way round
Now the Temps are a lot better -
Lots of other problems sorted too:
The car never felt right - didn't have the wheelspin , grip , kinda thing , idled funny but was still ok -just couldn't work it out - but after a drive up North and back it shook the problems to the surface ha ha
Engine earth strap was hanging by a thread
Was running a T3 flange manifold with T25 Turbo - was blowing so bad but looked sealed
Incorrect vband (i bought it as a genuine RS one lol) caused untold issues - ie start the car after putting back together perfect , full power etc but after 10 miles the vband would move etc and starts blowing etc
Manifold flange was 3/4 cracked all the way round too
That ebay alternator did not help either - last 3 years been chasing gremlins , bought a 10£ ebay alternator wacked it on and lovely! I get a stable 13.8 volts back . No discrepancies' or voltage dip!
One last thing - thed rive shaft centre shaft was never ever seated properly since owning the car because im stupid lol - sorted that aswell now
Hydraulics - just could not bleed clutch properly - never felt right just always knew something was wrong , New everything clutch gearbox, cylinders you name it ! So what was the last thing ? The servo pot -ha ha the thing was swollen and had a miniscule leak just letting moisture in - AND the cap would never tighten - i always thought the 'click' was part of it , well now that is sorted also!
All sorted now by me!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Steering Rack next!
Turbo coolant pipes/hoses were on the wrong way round - i didn't think it mattered -
Heater Matrix hoses , again same, Wrong way round
Now the Temps are a lot better -
Lots of other problems sorted too:
The car never felt right - didn't have the wheelspin , grip , kinda thing , idled funny but was still ok -just couldn't work it out - but after a drive up North and back it shook the problems to the surface ha ha
Engine earth strap was hanging by a thread
Was running a T3 flange manifold with T25 Turbo - was blowing so bad but looked sealed
Incorrect vband (i bought it as a genuine RS one lol) caused untold issues - ie start the car after putting back together perfect , full power etc but after 10 miles the vband would move etc and starts blowing etc
Manifold flange was 3/4 cracked all the way round too
That ebay alternator did not help either - last 3 years been chasing gremlins , bought a 10£ ebay alternator wacked it on and lovely! I get a stable 13.8 volts back . No discrepancies' or voltage dip!
One last thing - thed rive shaft centre shaft was never ever seated properly since owning the car because im stupid lol - sorted that aswell now
Hydraulics - just could not bleed clutch properly - never felt right just always knew something was wrong , New everything clutch gearbox, cylinders you name it ! So what was the last thing ? The servo pot -ha ha the thing was swollen and had a miniscule leak just letting moisture in - AND the cap would never tighten - i always thought the 'click' was part of it , well now that is sorted also!
All sorted now by me!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Steering Rack next!
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post







