Adjustable lower arms
#1
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Hi guys,
I know there are a lot of threads referring to this subject, but I am unable to see anything along the line of what I am thinking so here goes...
I have seen adjustable lower arms which use a male rose joint but this makes them difficult to adjust in situ.
Could I use some thing like this http://www.rallydesign.co.uk/product...44gv81ska567d7 tig one end into the lower arm and the replace the other end of the adjuster with a 5/8 UNF female rose joint thus creating an in situ adjustable lower arm?
Any help or previous experiences would be greatly appreciated
I know there are a lot of threads referring to this subject, but I am unable to see anything along the line of what I am thinking so here goes...
I have seen adjustable lower arms which use a male rose joint but this makes them difficult to adjust in situ.
Could I use some thing like this http://www.rallydesign.co.uk/product...44gv81ska567d7 tig one end into the lower arm and the replace the other end of the adjuster with a 5/8 UNF female rose joint thus creating an in situ adjustable lower arm?
Any help or previous experiences would be greatly appreciated
#3
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Sorry here are some pictures.
This is the adjuster I am talking about
![](http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy215/coatesy1/RD413product.jpg)
One end tig welded into the lower arm and th other end replace with a female rose joint
This an adjuster in use of a set of escort mk1 track control arms (TCA)
![](http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy215/coatesy1/TCA.jpg)
As said any help is appreciated
This is the adjuster I am talking about
![](http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy215/coatesy1/RD413product.jpg)
One end tig welded into the lower arm and th other end replace with a female rose joint
This an adjuster in use of a set of escort mk1 track control arms (TCA)
![](http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy215/coatesy1/TCA.jpg)
As said any help is appreciated
Last edited by lcoates; 09-08-2012 at 07:09 AM.
#4
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i see no reason why that wouldn't work.
MK4 escorts have a rose jointed inner mount anyway with rubber cover so no real need to buy another end for those.
In those pictures it looks to me like the arms are cut, drilled out and tapped? Only concern when making a set is that theyre strong enough and last as they should.
MK4 escorts have a rose jointed inner mount anyway with rubber cover so no real need to buy another end for those.
In those pictures it looks to me like the arms are cut, drilled out and tapped? Only concern when making a set is that theyre strong enough and last as they should.
#6
An eye for detail...
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Have you asked at rally design?
I'd be surprised if it wasnt suitable for most applications, but like I say it's only going to be as strong as the bond between it and the arm itself.
I can see the cast arm being weaker than the adjuster once it's all finished, have to be sure the cast Is welded properly or it might crack.
I'd be surprised if it wasnt suitable for most applications, but like I say it's only going to be as strong as the bond between it and the arm itself.
I can see the cast arm being weaker than the adjuster once it's all finished, have to be sure the cast Is welded properly or it might crack.
#7
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The set in the picture above work perfect when fitted and can bet set to get the negative camber required.
Ideally you would want to change the outter ball joint to have a bearing too. This is easy to do with a little machining for a 34.98mm bearing then cut a circlip groove to hold it in place. Ending up with a fully rose jointed TCA. If you want to be flash you could fit a billet one. Its how far do you want to go type answer.
Ideally you would want to change the outter ball joint to have a bearing too. This is easy to do with a little machining for a 34.98mm bearing then cut a circlip groove to hold it in place. Ending up with a fully rose jointed TCA. If you want to be flash you could fit a billet one. Its how far do you want to go type answer.
![](http://i49.tinypic.com/ifr0o3.jpg)
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#9
I like him nice!
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The set in the picture above work perfect when fitted and can bet set to get the negative camber required.
Ideally you would want to change the outter ball joint to have a bearing too. This is easy to do with a little machining for a 34.98mm bearing then cut a circlip groove to hold it in place. Ending up with a fully rose jointed TCA. If you want to be flash you could fit a billet one. Its how far do you want to go type answer.
![](http://i49.tinypic.com/ifr0o3.jpg)
Ideally you would want to change the outter ball joint to have a bearing too. This is easy to do with a little machining for a 34.98mm bearing then cut a circlip groove to hold it in place. Ending up with a fully rose jointed TCA. If you want to be flash you could fit a billet one. Its how far do you want to go type answer.
![](http://i49.tinypic.com/ifr0o3.jpg)
Welding a straight insitu adjuster in is'nt the answer as the rose joint has bottomed out before you start.if you have a set of these then sorry but you have wasted your money they are junk!
You have 2 options really
1,insitu adjuster leaving it bushed
2,rosejoint lower arm at chassis end at correct angle(adjustable just not on car)
#11
I like him nice!
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No no trust me.they are wrong.unless yours have the crank on the end then they are bottoming out.
You cant replace a formed arm with a straight rosejoint.
Think theres only one way to fit a bottom arm
You cant replace a formed arm with a straight rosejoint.
Think theres only one way to fit a bottom arm
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